Mech

If you download a service manual it will tell you where the vin number is.

Thought to add.. Leaking head gasket or small exhaust leaks at the head can make a noise that might be taken for a click.. Also the cam chains can hit the sleeve and make a noise, and the pistons can make a click/tap if they've been overheated and got a black anodised scale on the skirt.. The piston though is a lot noisier when cold, so sort of easy to spot. If you suspect it is a valve clearance you could try either tightening or loosening them and seeing it it changes. You could also try to locate the noise by putting a screwdriver handle to your ear and the tip on different places on the motor using it as a stethoscope.

How did you measure the valve clearance ? If the valves get a bit of wear, or the rocker, they can have a bit of a dish where one part touches another, and if you try adjusting them with a feller gauge you get the wrong clearance. You could try adjusting them with a dial gauge, or, use your ear.. A valve clearance of two thou, you can feel but barely hear click when you snap it down against the valve, it will be a muffled little click.. four thou you can feel and hear as a crisp click most vehicles.. Rough setting but people have been using it for ever.. It's a good idea if you have one, to use the dial gauge to start, and then check with your fingers and ears what it's like for future reference.

There's a service manual on this site. It says that for all the 98-99 models except UK and Europe they use a two wire key switch. The Uk has a three wire switch. The 99-02 models are the same. Prior to those years they could have two, three, or four wires.. It may be that the four wire one will work, or the three, but you will have some wires spare.. You'd want to check the three wire switch with an ohm meter because it shows one set of contacts as having a resistor in it. The book doesn't show whats inside the four wire switch, it might have a resistor too. To complicate matters further, when I looked it up online in a parts place it showed it as having four wires... Probably best to rummage around under the dash and check how many wires your one has..

Good buy. Some of those little bits can add up to a lot. Greasing every bolt when you have them out is a good idea alright.. Makes the future work so much easier.

Patience can save us a lot of money sometimes.... Good on you for getting the old girl going. I'm too old to be bothered now days (and I'm younger than you), but my mechanic son buys wrecks and does up... just to get another bike on the road.. He hardly makes anything for it but he's happy to see some young guy with a good buy.

I think it's eight mill/five sixteenths. Fuel hose works. Also, some aftermarket carbs don't have the large sized vacuum port on the carb, the brass fitting. The originals had a hole in it about five mills but I've seen aftermarket with a smaller hole, about,,er.. a bit over two mills I think it was from memory.. That didn't work and I swapped brass fittings.

Ha. Yeah well don't let it get to be a compulsion with you... I know a fellah (not mentioning names) that pulls going machines to pieces to get the part he needs to get a broken one going.. just because he can't resists..

If it runs ok when the bowl is full then you need to figure why the bowl isn't staying full.. When the tank is full the fuel will/should flow out the carbs fuel hose if you pull it off.. You should check that happens first. If there is fuel getting to the carb then use the drain bung to check it's flowing through the float needle and into the carb fast enough. If there was no fuel to the carb then check for restrictions or vacuum in the tank. That new pump might restrict the fuel when it's not getting vacuum. To test the fuel pump you lay the fuel hose from the carb into a bottle. Lay it on it's side with the hose laying flat. If the hose is dangling down you won't see the fuel pumping out properly. Then suck hard two or three times on the vacuum hose going to the pump, and then let the vacuum off suddenly. You should see a single slug of fuel come out of the fuel hose. The slug should be full diameter of the hose and about ten mills long. If that works then your pump is ok and will work if it's getting good pulsating vacuum. To test the vacuum you reattach the vacuum hose and start the motor and let it idle. It should pump fuel out of the fuel hose into the bottle at full diameter of the hose and slugs about eight mils long. If that works then the pump is working and it should start and idle at east. Then you need to check the vacuum is still strong enough when the motor is under load. To check that you leave it all as is but sit on the bike, put the brakes on hard, engage first gear and open the throttle until the motor starts straining against the centrifugal clutch. As the motor starts to labour the pump will likely slow down it's delivery of fuel, but it should keep pumping some. If it stops pumping then you have weak vacuum or a malfunctioning pump. The vacuum has to be strong, and pulsating when it gets to the pump. If the vacuum hose has been swapped with some soft thin walled stuff the pulsations can get lost as they suck the vacuum hose flat and then let it out again. Low vacuum can be caused by low compression, tight valves, or air leaks.

Oh ok.. You you need a wreck to strip.. A good condition bike that's blown it's motor big time.. Something like that.. (We should be so lucky !).

I meant that hose and it's fitting are cheap... One is $2 and the other $6 I think it was.

The fuel pump vacuum has to be pulsating. If it's got a steady vacuum then you have a restriction in the hose somewhere or the hose is too thinner walled. If the carb is full of fuel, then it should run. Check the fuel is getting to, and into the carb by undoing the drain screw on the bottom and checking fuel keeps coming out after the bowl has emptied. It should flow by gravity if the tank is full. Then, if you take the fuel hose off the carb and lay it in a bottle it should be pulsing out fuel when it's idling.

There are three things I can think of that would burn out a coil. One is that the coils isn't made for a cdi system, they need to be very low impedance coils. Second is that the earth is bad. Third would be that there is some DC flowing from the cdi unit all the time. That would still take time to burn out the coil though, and I'd expect that to be causing other symptoms such as a drain on the battery and/or the cdi getting hot.

Looks like the genuine is cheap.. https://tinyurl.com/3nu2af64

Good work Gw. That's an unusual setup for a bowl vent.. More water-proof ?

Those plungers I've got out before by soaking and then tapping along the outside of the carby where there's a thin walled bit of aluminium housing the plunger, that works the oil in, and if done enough spreads the bore slightly. Then the best way I've found is to make a small screwdriver that goes in the slot and right to the bottom, but isn't the usual tapered to the end screwdriver shape, but hollow ground to the end so it only contacts deep down in the plunger, only the tip touches, and it touches before the further back parts of the screwdriver tip touches up near the top of the slot.. where it won't bend the very soft material they are made of, or splay the two sides of the slot.. Then working it around (rotating and pulling) you can sometimes get the slot in the plunger to cut away a small amount of burring or corrosion.. If you do decide to drill it out you should get a new plunger first and measure the depth you need to drill to. They have a thinned down inner end which the spring rests upon and if you drill too far the drill hits the spring and cocks things over and makes it difficult.. cant quite remember the details but know it's best to measure and drill to the needed depth and no more.

Yeah, and watch out for the angry men... the ones with a chip on their shoulder.. they're the worst.. Phew...

Fancy arguing with a man that knows nothing... That is stupid..

Basmin.. we've had additives in oil since the mid seventies at least.. They only set the jaso standards in the late eighties. Just because an oil hasn't been given a jaso standard doesn't rule it out from being suitable for a wet clutch. If you found an apple tree out in the wild, would you refuse to eat an apple off it because there wasn't a organic certificate attached to the tree ? The standard/certification is just a nice assurance for people that can't read/comprehend or think for themselves.

Being able to weld is a great thing.. especially in the country.

Tiha, a lot of yamahas feed a voltage into the cdi while the starter is being operated, it's to make them start easier. That wire branches off the starter wire. Some of the models though, instead of branching off from the starter wire have a feed wire from the cdi going to the start button. On those models the cdi notices the voltage drop when the star button is pushed and causes the same easier starting. If your bike needs that second type of cdi with the starter voltage going through it, and you fit one of the other model, or a cdi that doesn't have that power going through it, then you will get a no starter situation. You need to refer to a service manual and check the bikes wiring before buying a cdi for a yamaha.

Valkman... if it runs fine in the wet clutches in your bikes then it will be fine in the wet clutches in your quad... The oil won't be your problem.. Good observation too about the up change prompting the fault.. Do that test I suggest, change donw from a high gear, and then accelerate hard.. If it is definitely bad after an up shift only then it's likely the shift cable.. or linkage wear.

Most manuals for most bikes and machinery say to test everything else, including the wiring, and if nothing else is faulty, change the cdi..

Are you sure they are coils suitable for a cdi system ? Did you check the new coil was good before you fitted it on ? Perhaps you got a dud coil..

You could have a little preview peek using the pull start..