Mech

This is a good site Bigguy.. Don't knock it without trying it.

Youch.. Most bikes you hardly need a ring compressor, and on a lot of them a ring compressor won't work, or at least, a lot of ring compressor designs won't work on them, because the sleeves have a big gentle taper at the bottom.. It was probably caused by letting the barrel lean over on the piston as it was going on, pressing the ring in on one side and allowing it to pop out on the other side. You need to get two fingers in under the piston to hold it flat as you slide the barrel down over it..

In the books I'm looking in there is no fan relay.. There's only the starter isolation and the reverse relays Could it be the fan's circuit breaker ? How many wires does it have Gw, and what colours ? It should be identifiable by it's plug and wire colours.

It's because of what I say King.. They only fit over the rim if the opposite side of the bead is pulled right into that smaller diameter bit near the center of the rim width.. And.. it pays to keep rechecking that the opposite side is right near the side you are working on but in the center depression. as you are levering tyres on or off.. To get the new ones on you push one bead on till it hooks into that center depression, then start levering the bead on the other side of that same bead, but you keep checking where the bead in the depression is.. The first side of the tyre can be pushed right onto the rim by hand if it's lubricated.. I've been fitting bike tyres with a single six inch lever for ever.. Done right, we can push the first side of the tyre right on by hand, then fit a tube, and then fit the seconds side with a single lever if we do it right.. Tyres do not need stretching, only positioning in/on the rim correctly. All tyres and rims, except split rims, work like that.. There is no need to stretch tyres !!

Well the oil ring didn't get that damaged being fitted... So what happened to it ?

I would imagine they are meaning part 31.. Often called a neutral switch. https://www.babbittsonline.com/oemparts/a/arc/54f648e087a8650a34f40803/gear-shifting-assembly

Normally an engine control module would be on a fuel injected motor and it controls fuel and ignition.. I'm no yamaha expert though.. hardly had anything to do with them.

Good rundown Ulf. The only thing I'd add is that when you have broken both beads and driven them into the smaller diameter center of the rim, and are about to start levering one side of the tyre out and over the rim, you have to hold the opposite side of that same bead down into that smaller diameter center of the rim. The tyre won't stretch enough to come over the rim if the opposite side of the bead is out near the bead seat, but if it's in towards the center of the width of the rim the tyre it can move towards where you are levering, and is long enough to lift off on one side.

And yeah, the start circuit doesn't show the reverse switch as being anything to do with it, but in the text it says... "The starting circuit cut-off relay prevents the starter from operating when the select lever is in gear or in reverse and the rear brake lever is free. In this instance, the start- ing circuit cut-off relay is off so that current cannot reach the starter motor.".. That's why I'm not sure of the reverse switch's role in the cdi.. it implies it controls the starter.. but if not then it's to detune the motor when in reverse..

The reverse relay is in the main wiring diagram at the end of the manual. Part 23. See there's a dotted box around the relay.. and the diode is inside the box.. That means it's a part of the relay. And that other box you think is called an engine controller... well I hope it's not. haha.. None of the three manuals I've been looking in show any such thing..

Yeah it's meant to turn. It's a balance shaft and it has a weight on it to counter the effects of the flywheel's vibrations.

Oh, well that's not so good.. That bearing of course shouldn't allow any movement to speak of, a thou or two.. Might be good to check for metal in the oil and filters..

That's a balance shaft in there and I'm sure it will be fine. Try moving the end of it with screwdriver poked into that hole in the end of the shaft.

The other relay is for the reverse light, but it's a special one with an internal diode.. They can't be swapped, and you should check they haven't been swapped over.. The reverse light circuit also connects to the cdi and stops the cranking if the reverse signal isn't right. The reverse switch is normally open unless it's in reverse. When the switch is open there is 12v going through the relay's diode and windings, and that is going to the ecu and the reverse switch. As long as the reverse switch is open, the ecu will see 12v on that G/W wire that goes to the ecu and reverse switch. When the reverse switch closes it shorts the relays windings to the earth, meaning the voltage on the G/W wire drops to zero, which the ecu detects and so prevents cranking. It means you need that relay in place with the 12v going through it's windings and into the G/W wire or it shouldn't crank.. If it is cranking with only the one relay in place, there is something wrong I think. I may be wrong about what the reverse switch feed into the cdi is for, it may not be to disable the start, but just to limit power in reverse. In that case I'm wrong about the start situation, but it should still be put right to make sure the cdi doesn't limit the power all the time.

Onya.. well done.

The B/W shouldn't be dimmer. Once the relay contacts close the full battery voltage should be on the B/W. When it's in gear and the relay contacts are open it should not have any voltage. It seems that relay must have dirty contacts. The Y/B should be dim with a test light when the bike's in gear, It's power is going through the relay's windings, but not being shorted to earth yet. If the bike's in neutral, the power going through the relay's windings gets shorted to earth and so the Y/B wire should show no voltage and no light at all.. If the Y/B is making the light glow when it's in neutral, it's because the Y/B wire isn't getting fully earthed, there is a bad connection somewhere going to earth.

Oh well if it has a manual clutch on the bars then you could push start it.. It must be a different model than we get here though. Ours all have a kickstart and auto clutch..

But the start solenoid doesn't have R/W wires... The relay has the R/W wires.. Oh.. never mind that.. I see your solenoid has some internal connections.. It's not a separate wire like is shown in the book.. It does have a R/W I see in your picture..

Ha.. join the club. In theory we can push start them but without a manual handlebar clutch it's kinda hard. We'd need to use the shift lever which activates a clutch, or just push till the wheels slid or the engine started turning. With a big hill, and using the shift lever or decompression lever we can roll start them. But it should have a kick start, that will show whether it has reasonable compression or not. Try kicking it.. it should take a bit of effort if it has compression.. Did it use to go before the spark problem ? You haven't shorted out that reverse switch wire have you ? I think that reverse switch controls the engine power when in reverse. I'm not sure what it actually does, whether it just limits the revs, or whether it retards the ignition timing to lower the power, but it might make it hard to start if the reverse switch is closed.

I think you mean the relay there Gw, not solenoid.. At the relay the R/W should have 12v, the L/W should have 12v when the relay is closed(neutral switch closed), and nothing when the relay is open. The Y/B that goes to the ecu should have either 12v(or a dull light if a test light is being used, because of the relay's winding resistance) or nothing, depending on whether the neutral switch is closed or not. And at the start solenoid the L/W should have 12v when the neutral switch is closed, and the L/B wire will have either 12v when the start button is not being pushed (or a dull light if using a test light), or practically zero volts when the button is pushed. I'm not sure whether, when the neutral switch is closed, it shorts the L/W to earth through the neutral switch, or whether the neutral switch just causes the cdi to short the L/W to the cdi's own earth wire.. If the neutral switch being closed isn't closing the relay, then it would pay to check the cdi's earth as well. If closing the neutral switch does close the relay, sending 12 v to the start solenoid's L/W wire then it's irrelevant.

Good work so far.. So, it could be that the engine is trying to run and that's why it's sounding fast.. Do you think it's firing at all ? Did it use to go, before the loss of spark ? Have you tried kick starting it ? Did it seem like it had compression ? Probably you should try to check it has compression. If you don't have a gauge take the spark plug out, put your finger in the spark plug hole and crank the engine over. If you can keep your finger in the hole it doesn't have enough compression. If your finger gets lifted and the air escapes it's probably enough.. depending how tough or woosy your fingers are..haha.

That's right.. We can find voltage but it doesn't mean there is going to be enough amps to run things or even show a volt once the load is on.

If you have a test light with a bulb in it, use that looking for the power and the earths.. It can happen that a bad connection is letting a tiny mount of power through, or providing a tiny amount of earth, and that tiny amount of power is enough to make the gauge go, but as soon as the load comes on that bad connection it fails to let enough power through and so it looks dead.. The bulb in the test light draws enough power so we don't get tricked by the bad connection. The starter needs a good supply and earth so the engine should have either a big earth cable, or the engine is mounted solidly to the frame.. If the starter operates, the engine is earthed..

Ok, so test from the ICM black/white wire to a good earth on the engine first, and then on the battery's negative terminal, and see if you get 12 volts both places.. with both key and run switches on. If it doesn't get 12v on the engine, but it does on the battery negative, then the engine needs a wire connecting it to the negative. If you can't get 12v on the B/W wire using either earth, then you need to check the fuse and both switches are getting power through them. If/when you do get 12 volt from the B/W wire using the engine for an earth, but the G/W wire still doesn't work as an earth, then the problem is that the green/white wire isn't getting to earth as it should down on the stator housing..

The one labeled G/W. And yeah, going to the stator housing, that's what that circle is, the dot means there is a connection, and those stacks of short lines all along the bottom of the diagram are the symbol for earth.. so everything that has that earth sign all have to be connected, the engine, frame, battery negative, coil, reverse switch. If the reverse switch and the trigger coil only have one wire then they are earthed internally to the engine.