Mech

I think 2005/6/7 are all a model run.. The R inner only appears in the 2006/7 models, but most of the fenders and other parts look the same.. The inner can and was probably fitted retrospectively.

Yeah that's what I was thinking.. A weld.. That carb is a QB02B or QB02A. The A was fitted from 93-2000, and the B from 2001-2006 models. They both have the same jets and float height, but they will probably have different slide needles and/or emulsion tubes(the brass tube the slide needle slides down into), or possibly slides.

The stamped in numbers are done when it's set up for a specific bike and market. The after market carbs don't have the numbers, and are not set up for any particular bike or market, they are just set for a general tune which should start and run anywhere.. If the new carb is an exact copy of the original(right down to the threads used for the jets), then you can often swap all the old jets and brass bits, and the slide and needle, from the old carb to the new one to set it up as intended for your market/climate/fuel/altitude.. The idle mixture screws sometimes have different threads though and can't be swapped.. If the new carb isn't an exact copy of the old one though swapping the jets, even if they do fit, doesn't always work so good. Unless it's the OEM make, and with the same stamped in numbers, it's not really a OEM replacement part.

If it's the same make and model as the OEM that's a good start, but then they come in different versions for different markets and years as well.. Different markets often have different jets and adjustments. If it's the same make and model and has the same, stamped in, numbers and letters, it can still be set up slightly differently. Some makes have up to about four variations for a single model and year.. The stamped in numbers and letters are the most specific details, they tell us what jets and setup they have. The general model though can be fitted to heaps of different make and models and have endless variations of jets etc. Quick question.. the cover on top of your carb, is it squareish with four screws, or an odd shaped cover ?

Yup, I'd advocate for the OEM overhaul over an unknown make any day.. Even with worn slides and carb body, they are still a better bet than some of the aftermarket carbs. As for the initial setting... some aftermarket use their own, different, threads on the idle mixture screw, and different taper. Set it where you like initially and adjust it once it's going and warmed up.

I had a thought... Check every other thing that the right inner attaches to and if they all are the same as your bike, then the later model part will fit on to them... I mean, check all the other parts on the later model and see if they are the same as your bikes fender and brackets and shields etc.. if they are, then the later model inner will fit.

Have you looked in the manuals section of this site ? Owner manuals are often available in pdf form for free from the dealers/manufacturers.. Or, look on goggle... They will be out there.

I looked in Aussie, euro and yanky sites and they all seem to say that part only came out in the 700 in 2006. What appears to be the identical part, cross referenced from what other models parts fit, appears in the 450 of 02...

Yeah well I can't find an 02 700 KQ listed at all. That link you supplied says it's for 05. Are you in America Krazo ? Might pay to look at european parts lists.. In that link you posted I backtracked and found this... https://www.partzilla.com/catalog/suzuki/atv/2005/kingquad-lt-a700x/mudguard.. It's not that is it ? I looked in Europe.. same parts.... forget that plan.

They're cheap new Mate.. I was surprised.

Oh.. The last thing I should mention.. I promise.. Sometimes to get it where we need it, we have to move a half link forwards(by moving one crank link), and then a whole link backwards(by moving the chain one link on the cam).

From another thread.. Your G/son might like to read it. People that have a half link out timing have huge trouble understanding how to move it a half link, so I wrote this a while ago... To do as I suggest and move the cam by a half link, you don't need to drop the chain off the crank. For the sake of an example we will say that with the crank timing marks lined up, the cam timing marks are a half tooth to the right(clockwise), and that the cam timing marks on the bike we are working on are straight up and down. If the timing marks are flat across then you could put a mark straight up and down. All you need to do is hold the chain at the top, in line with the mark on the cam sprocket, you will be holding a link that's slightly to the right of the very top, then pull the sprocket away from the cam and drop it down and work the chain off the sprocket without letting go of the link. Now turn the crank till the chain has moved one link through your fingers. In this example the crank would need rotating to the right(clockwise). Now slip the cam sprocket up or back in and fit the timing mark(or the mark you'd made), back into the link between your fingers. Put the sprocket on the cam. Now you have the cam timing mark, the mark that used to be a half link to the right, back right where it used to be, looking a half link to the right.. But.. when you turn the crank the one link's worth of rotation it needs to get it's marks lined up again, (to the left/anti-clockwise), the cam is going to move half the distance, which is half a link. Both marks line up. Turn the cam till the bolt holes line up and put the bolts in. Just know it can be moved by a half link P5200, and plan accordingly. Aim to get the marks slightly advanced for a new chain.

If your links are a half inch long each then it will be right. If they are shorter you may get it slightly better.. Another consideration is that the chain is going to stretch a bit in the first short time and allow the cam to retard itself slightly.. If those 1/8ths are retarded you might be better to adjust it a half link so it's a little advanced. If you got it to 3/16 advanced it would move back the 1/16 pretty soon and then be in a good place for the subsequent stretching of the chain as the slippers wear and the chain stretches with use. We can always get them within a quarter of a link one side of the mark or the other, but it's sometimes best to set them up a little beyond that if we know the initial stretch is going to work in our favour and bring it closer than a quarter link. If the options are getting it a little advanced or a little retarded, it's better generally to choose the advanced option, anticipating the stretch will bring it within a quarter of a link of perfect soon. Remember we can adjust the cam timing by a half a link at a time, and choose the best option for that new chain accordingly. If we are fitting a used chain that isn't going to have any initial stretch then we factor that in.

The heater doesn't get a mention in the trouble shooting section of the manual.. So I'd guess not.

No trouble.. You'd better back up a couple of more clicks at the top of that listing though and check it is the right model, there were two 450 kodiaks.. https://www.partzilla.com/catalog/yamaha/atv/2004

Yeah bike dealers will probably have a book of second hand prices too.. for trade-ins and reselling.. They are only guides, but based on market research..

Hi Krazo.. Following off your link there I saw that that part fits other models as well, so I looked the part up in one of those, and it showed a left and right inner guard. It might be that your model never had the other inner.. It might be that to fit the other inner you will have to change some other bits so it has something to attach to.. https://www.partzilla.com/catalog/suzuki/atv/2014/kingquad-lt-a750xz/64-front-fender-lt-a750xpl4-p28

We can move the sprocket in increments of a quarter of a tooth.. It shouldn't be more than one quarter of a tooth out. Hopefully less.

If you go talk to a bike dealer he will likely have an industry price guide for second hand bikes....

Exactly.. And some bikes need a lot spent on them, and some don't, and some get the money required and some don't. The value to the seller is mostly dependent on what they have spent on their bike. The only real way to answer your question here and now is to look at your local second hand market.

If you looked at second hand bikes on the market, you would find your answer. Here in New Zealand Honda would win hands down.

Down that listing a little way it tells you what else the part fits.

Look the parts up on an online parts place like partzilla and they will likely have some way or where, that they will tell you what else that parts fits. https://www.partzilla.com/product/yamaha/5GH-17660-00-00?ref=a5a2e51fd1b12c786666c251d29374489d129825 At the top of that listing click on the button called "clutch" and it will take you back to a parts diagram where you can check each part..

Haha.. People like to complicate things.. You're very welcome Kuba. I'm always happy to help anyone that's trying to help themselves.

No, valves should not need adjusting every year. The most common reason they need readjusting is because they weren't set to the right setting to start with. If you are adjusting them with feeler gauges you need to be sure there is no wear on the valve end or the rocker that's upsetting the measurement. It might be better to use a dial gauge that measures in thou, or calculate how much of a turn it will take of the screw to give the right gap, and then back the screw out from zero gap to get the required gap. It's important that you end up with as much clearance as possible, without noise, hot or cold. Some old bikes with worn rockers and valves need a bit of trial and error to get them adjusted and stable. The apparent gap isn't always the only play. Sometimes we need them to have a slightly bigger than recommended gap, and sometimes slightly less. First up check the gap cold and then hot and see whether they gain or loose clearance when they warm up. Then factor that in as you are calculating/adjusting the clearance. Always start with a little too much gap, and then if they are noisy, reduce it till they are just quiet hot and cold and then they should be stable.