Arizona

Finally got around to checking more on this item. All wiring according to diagram checked good, found nothing grounded, Even disconnected each going back to ign switch and no issues. Finally got tired of it, ordered another ign, switch, plugged it in and wolah started right up. I figured the switch was bad from the start, should have just replaced it to begin with. Figured i should let yall know in case you have same issues, Az

the yamahas dont like you to play with the brake adjustments as it effects the ability to shift properly, it all ties in. Everyone i have had has done that, you can try to loosen up the rear brake cable adjustment then try to put in gear. Az

Yea gonna have to look at it a little harder, Put it on hold for a while, was pissing me off and i usually do this to enjoy the challenge. Got a polaris i can mess with in the mean time. Az

Still having issues on electrical, I run hot wire to pos side of starter relay and it cranks and will run, ground side is good. still no power other places. No power to starter button to relay but ohms out fine and check fine on test, just no power. checked power to light switch (where power is supplied to starter button wire) out of all wires only black/w stripe has 12.7v key off but key on drops to .7v all rest have 0v key on or off. Ignition switch , wired connector has no power key on or off, the other 2 wires red and black/w stripe get 12.7v key off then the the black/w stripe drops to .7 with key on, red stays at 12.7 key on. . starting to drive me crazy, The start button should get power from the black /br stripe which i traced to warning module and also fed in to fused wire. all fuses were good. Any guesses? Still have thoughts on that key switch, any chance it not providing voltage where it needs to be? Az

Thanks for the info, will have to double check everything. Az

Yea, but also shows the red wire is red all the way to the battery, The red wire off the switch goes to green and does not go to the Pos on battery, Just wondering. Az

I recently bought a 87 TRX 250 not running of course, the owner had a brand new Key Switch on it. I think it is the wrong one or wrong wire colors as the colors dont match up with wiring diagram i downloaded for it. anyone have a pic of their ign switch wires where they connect with the wire colors for that model? I ended up leaving the black/w stripe and green wire disconnected in order to hot wire it for other testing but would like to know as the colors dont match diagram.

yea, looking for mostly wiring and control diagrams which are specific to terra pro. Found a download on Docpro but cant seem to download it. Az

checked and not listed there

Looking for a repair manual for a 1988 Yamaha Terra Pro Thanks Az

Been a while since i posted as other stuff has taken priority. Picked up a 88 Terra Pro the other day, man this thing is rough. Missing gas tank, carb, all cables locked up or broken, But the bike looks interesting, never seen one. All i see listed is 350cc but this one is a 250? Has 5 speed live clutch, PTO, looks kinda cool. Who knows when it ran last. Got it from a guy said he got it from a friend years ago like that so probably hasnt run in 15 yrs or so. Started working on it, the oil was full of gas, drained it put fresh oil in it. Pulled the plug which was fouled black, im sure it was flooding. Cleaned the plug and actually got it to crank with the start button. Got cables, carb, and a gas tank on the way. Hoping for the best. Az

you could try just raising the idle. If that doesnt remedy it you probably gonna have to open up the carb and at least clean it out and clean out the idle circuit. Not that difficult, lot of tube videos there to watch. Az

This ever get figured out?

well some one wanted to but it so away it went, still no front brakes, guess ill never know but sure ill get another with the same problem. Till then , Az

I bled the m/c first, gravity fed both lines forever, Pumped up and bled the standard way, barely any tension on lever, it does come shooting out of the bleeder when bleeding but still not enough to activate brakes. I even clamped off 1 line at a time. When doing so it increased the tension on lever a lot but still not right. I even was tapping on the brake line where it connects to the wheel cyls, and also at the y connector, still same condition. Easiest things seem to mess with you the most. Like i said before also had another one with a broken m/c and ended up same problem. Never did get enough pressure to slow you down. Would not even keep you from rolling it with the brake on. Dam Hondas! Az

Had a 300, had new timing chain plus other new parts and still made a racket from that motor, ran great. Ended up selling never figured it out.

So as i read all the new posts i think and probably some of you also like I remember that problem or that headache on that bike, I have been through many and some simple and some pretty complicated but eventually figure them out with some experimenting and help from others here. Kinda wonder why i still buy them. Each one is harder than the last but pretty satisfying when finally figured out. Think ill keep doing it, keeps the brain working. Az

So i have had this trx 250 that i brought back from the grave. Long story but got it running and the master cyl eye glass was broken out so it hasnt worked in years. I replaced it, filled and bled the cyl, bled the brakes, I dont see any air coming out when im bleeding them but no matter what no pressure on handle. Will stop the turning wheel if spun by hand but wont hold at all. I adjusted the brakes also, checked for leaks at the brake cyls, all good. No leaks at lines or fittings, I have put a lot of fluid throught them and i know the routine as i did brakes on autos for years. Have new washers on master cyl, I would hate to replace parts knowing their good. Funny thing, few years ago same style vehicle i bought same broken master cyl and same problem after replaced. No pressure, Any ideas? Pretty simple system but maybe you guys have had similar problems. Thanks Az Just so you know I have replaced the complete master cyl, not just the glass. Az

Update on the Honda, Replaced the stator and pickup as it comes with both. Rechecked and has spark now, Also carb throttle plate rusted in fixed position, tried it all and no fixing this carb. I ordered one and after playing with the metering rod adjustment actually runs great. Was a lot more to it but you get the point. Sorry long wait but have had other projects keeping me busy.

I would still adjust the valves, everyone i have had has been out of adjustment

Hope it works out for you. Az

Yes it did, very easy to replace. also came with other seals i used on other atvs

normally it clears the frame but in this case the weld on the frame was built up enough to keep the cover from coming off. I would try to remove it and see if it is gonna hit. If doing extensive work i would just unbolt the motor to move it out of the way. Most the times it will come right off.

lol, no repairing this one. stator smashed into wires, tried using a chisel to separate, not working, Also, cover would hit frame and could not remove with out pulling motor or at least unbolting and jacking up. Decided to break out the die grinder and take off part of frame by foot pedal to save a lot of work. Parts should arrive later this week. Az

Well removed the stator from the housing and then could see the damage. Must have had foreign material get in and smashed between stator and flywheel. Has a good dent in flywheel but i think should be ok. Ordered new stator, will replace when it gets here and go from there. Wonder if thats what locked the motor up and not a stuck ring, Shall see. Learning all the time. Az