
Achilles
Members-
Posts
17 -
Joined
-
Last visited
-
Days Won
1
Achilles last won the day on November 9 2018
Achilles had the most liked content!
Recent Profile Visitors
The recent visitors block is disabled and is not being shown to other users.
Achilles's Achievements
-
Good luck Andrew--let me know if you run into any difficulties as I may be able to guide you through it. Thanks Frank-- can't wait to get her running again. I didn't get any shots of the seal placement and wondering why the heck I didn't think of it! I will try to take some shots of where I disconnected the rear end from the frame, etc., as well as the brake job I am dealing with. I will try the grease tonight as well. Hopefully it will come out relatively easily.
-
Thanks for the tip Frank--that's just what I did. Used a propane torch on the pivots. I wish I had thought of your wet rag idea but I didn't heat it long enough to heat the axle bearing I don't think, maybe less than a minute. I then sprayed some more PB Blaster and gently worked the shoes back and forth (or up and down I should say!) with a short piece of 2x2 and a hammer. I was eventually able to get them off. The shoes have probably been seized a long time since they don't look too worn. I will try to reuse them but definitely applying anti-seize before they go back on! Now I just have to get the damn brake cam out and sand it down, apply some anti-seize etc. since it is stuck pretty good too. It still turns with a pretty good whack on the cam lever but nowhere near easily enough for the cables to pull. Do you know if I need to remove the cam lever by unbolting it or should the cam just pull out? Thanks again!
-
I just completed this job and I did remove the rear end to get to the seal but not much to it. Just had to support the rear diff (used a jack) and the quad with a cinder block and a few wood blocks under the frame near the motor. I did everything per the manual except I did not remove the brake panel as it was seized on the axle pretty good. I unhooked the brake cables and just unbolted the rear shocks and suspension arms to remove. Then I unbolted the seal hosing/holder from the subtransmission (4 allen bolts) and replaced the seal. i also replaced the o-ring on the prop shaft. The job went fairly smoothly but not sure if it solved my problem yet since I still have the right rear wheel off to service the brakes. The shoes are rusted onto the pivot pins and I have been trying to work them off with some PB blaster and a prybar since they are seized on pretty good. Any tip on removing these btw?
-
Yes that would be great, thanks Frank! I am in WA so glad to hear he ships all over
-
1998 Kawasaki Bayou 4x4 clunking sound front end
Achilles replied to Achilles's topic in Kawasaki ATV Forum
Thanks for your reply MtBob--I will pull the axles and have a look -
That's great to hear. I have a 98 Bayou 300 4x4. Trying to go through it now to see what I need to get her in good shape for work around the property, Nice to know parts are available still
-
Washington Backcountry Discovery Route (WABDR)
Achilles replied to Shoogaze's topic in West ATV & Off Road Forum
Really?? Why am I only hearing about these now haha I need to plan to go soon -
Looks like you got everything you need for a nice trek there!
-
Washington Backcountry Discovery Route (WABDR)
Achilles replied to Shoogaze's topic in West ATV & Off Road Forum
That looks awesome. -
-
-
-
Hey I know this was posted some time ago but I was enjoying following the progress. How did it work out in the end?
-
I'm hearing a clunking sound from the front end. It doesn't happen when I bounce the front end up and down on the shocks while the motor is off--only when driving. There is a small tear in the CV boot on the axle so I planned on replacing the boot. Could a bad axel cause a clunking noise when thottling forward?