spock58

The needle jet is removed toward the slide, just like it's shown in the parts diagram. When you say "downward from float" I assume you mean with the carb turned upside down.

It goes up to the top, the main jet screws into it from below which keeps it in place.

https://www.ronniesmailorder.com/oemparts/a/suz/50d0a5aff870022c2c534c07/carburetor-model-x If you refer to the parts diagram, the piece you're trying to remove is #6 - the needle jet. These often wear out and the inside diameter increases causing a rich condition. Carb kits don't include this part but it may be required to get the carb working properly.

the jets look gold plated, hahaha

The tube that's threaded for the main jet can be removed, it needs to be pushed upward and may require a small punch to loosen it. There are small holes in it that I believe davefrombc referred to. I didn't see any pictures of the needle & seat (aka float valve) that is retained by the phillips screw - did you replace the o-ring on it already? The plastic piece in #6 & #7 is necessary for the spring to rest on - it looks like you've got it on correctly.

Something to bear in mind: if the adjustment screw is on the engine side of the carb (like this one) it is a fuel screw, so turning it out richens the mixture. Most 4 stroke carbs are this way. If it's on the airbox side, it is an air screw - common on 2 strokes. This works opposite but really does the same thing. It just fine tunes the pilot (slow jet) circuit in all cases.

Start with the simple stuff: pull apart any connectors you find, check for corrosion, spray WD40 in them, remove plug cap & cut back the wire a bit for starters.

Those Suzuki's had an idle speed adjustment usually connected to a short cable. This made it possible to set the speed without reaching into the carb which is buried. Quite often these either seized/broke or were not properly attached. The actual adjustment screw pushes onto the cam part that the throttle cable connects with.

These motors don't have a decompresser built into the cam, there's only an external lever to use manually I believe.

I dunno but it sounds like compression numbers you're getting are pretty low. Around a hundred a motor will still run but getting it started might be tough - that is the issue, right? Anything that old that's been tortured likely needs rings & possibly valve work to run right. I'd say it's time to pull the top end apart and see what's needed.

You shouldn't be getting such inconsistent compression readings. If all else fails, I'd recommend you pull the cylinder head and check the condition of the valves & their seats. Could be some carbon is messing things up. It also would be a good thing to check into the cam chain and its tensioner since you mentioned that it was 3 teeth off - that doesn't happen unless there's a lot of wear involved.

I'd recommend hooking up the new starter & cranking it over with the spark plug removed. Good Idea to ground the plug while doing so. Keep pumping it until there's no sign of fuel. Very important: don't let the plug spark anywhere near that fuel getting cleared! Not very likely there's damage to the crank/piston, just don't turn it over without the plug out.

I believe that you're reading 1 ohm on your meter here - the number 200 or 2000 ohms is an "up to" figure. If it was on the 20 scale, it would still read 1 ohm but would be more accurate and likely add a decimal & another number. Does this make sense? In other words, if the spec was around 300 ohms, you'd use the 2000 setting to get a proper reading. Really low resistance is difficult to read and usually only is accurate with a digital meter. Hope this helps.

It's been awhile since I've done one but I do recall that those Rotax engines had lines on the cam sprocket. When the crank is at TDC, then the lines on the sprocket were parallel to the cyl. head surface. Hope this helps.

Sorry if we hijacked your thread Rich! The Honda's are definitely cool - my favourited brand too. Just thought I'd mention that I too have a daughter in Kelowna Dave! My son lives in the states now, Portland, Oregon which is a pretty cool spot and has some great riding areas. We're pretty spoiled here in the Cariboo, I live on 15 acres that backs onto Crown (public) land that goes forever it seems. Hardly any neighbours or fences, plenty of lakes & clean air plus it's only 2 hours to a city like Kamloops or 4 hr. to the coast where Dave lives. My place is at around 4000' elevation so winter comes early and stays late most years, sledding is very popular too. If anyone is curious, let me know and I can give you a tour of this great area!

You should consider the 100 Mile House area Dave, there will be lots of good deals on properties with the forestry jobs going bye bye. Plenty of awesome trails to explore too!

Not that I've ever heard of, just an idiot light for low oil pressure on most Yamaha's.

By all means try all the suggested tests but don't skip one of the most important ones: do a compression test!

If you cannot find a lift then maybe stiffer shock springs would help out.

Bear in mind that some Chinese carbs are dead ringers of the Japanese produced ones like Mikuni right down to the name on them. Even though they look the same, I've found some that have jets that don't interchange.

Right back at ya! Still some warm days out here but yesterday it got down to 1C overnight - that's one degree above freezing so 33/34 F I guess. Brrr. A black bear discovered our two apple trees and totally demolished them, ate every last apple & it was a great crop!

Well, it has to slide freely but can't have much play at all - the only way to know is to compare it to a new one usually. It's kind of hard to tell with the naked eye. Your slide did appear to move normally and if it was worn down that would allow extra air through making it leaner, right?! Another thing to watch for is the o-ring on the float valve (needle & seat) - was a new one used when the parts were changed out?

Just got a look at your pictures, good quality shots! The third from last shows you holding the needle jet with the main jet attached. The separated part at the bottom is what I believe may be worn. If it isn't in spec, then it allows fuel to get past the needle at closed throttle when it shouldn't. Hopefully, if this is replaced and the needle itself is new as well the issue of overfueling should improve.

There should be a few more pieces that go on top of the needle, you have them ok? and did you remove the main jet, needle jet, o-ring, holder, etc. from the carb body? a few more pics would be helpful to see if there's anything missing in there.

Sounds like you may have a problem with the needle & nozzle alright. That would explain the over fueling and also why the adjustment screw doesn't do much. Can you compare the original parts to those replacements? Yamaha didn't offer carb rebuild kits, just individual parts I believe....they're expensive but usually worth it!