spock58

Howdy slarpa in Finland! how is the weather over there? winter coming soon? there is already enough snow up in the mountains near us for snowmobiling!

Depends what you consider "hard" haha! You'll have to remove the plastic body panels & fuel tank usually. The carb shouldn't have to be removed but be careful with the plastic nut that screws into the carb. This is the piece that connects the cable to the plunger inside the carb. Definitely don't want to strip that part. Otherwise it's straight forward as long as there isn't any corrosion involved.

Basically, one clutch is for engagement and the other is for when shifting gears. If it slips, then further inspection is needed but I'd assume you'd be replacing weights and springs if the damage isn't too ugly.

There's a pretty good chance that the dying out problem is a failed fuel pump. Pretty common on those older 420's and not hard to repair. Of course a ticking sound could be many things, an oil change & valve adjustment would need to be done first. As for the steering being welded? Sounds like impact damage, not unless it turns out to be the factory weld?? With the issues that you noticed it does sound like a crap shoot - the price would have to be pretty cheap to consider it.

Before buying any parts it couldn't hurt to check the cam timing. If the cam chain has stretched and jumped a tooth ( or been assembled wrong) then you could have this problem. An engine can have compression and spark but if the timing is off, it won't run or run right. This also applies to a flywheel key that is tweaked which affects ignition timing.

Well, if it is an Ultramatic they use a separate clutch for engagement. When there's something wrong in that system, then it could cause trouble with shifting since the belt could be turning when it's not supposed to. Hope that makes sense.

If you're getting a new winch I'd recommend a Warn with a mount kit meant for the model you have. It will cost more but be worth it in the end.

Yeah, that sounds pretty typical. Once it's broken in and gets the oil changed things should work just fine - hey, it's a Honda, no worries bud!

I believe that your quad has a CVT system (belt drive) that changes gears automatically, as well as a separate (sub)transmission to change from forward to reverse/neutral gears. Is that the system you have & is it a problem going from F-R-N?

I'm in agreement with what was listed above. All important stuff for sure. The airbox & filter should remain stock on utility quads. The CV style carbs they use depend on this design. You cannot just run an air filter that just bolts on the carb with stock jetting - it's a hassle to get them running properly. I'd like to add that the diaphragm on top of the slide on these carbs is important as well. They must seal well or you won't get proper acceleration.

Don't overlook the spark plug boot - wire connection. If in doubt, cut the wire back...

Voltage regulator/rectifier.

That's good, I believe the spec is closer to 450-550 so anything around 500 is ok.

The other wires are for the pickup coil and it is common for these to fail on Yamaha's. Usually they have a white/red & white/green wires: resistance is 450-500 ohms. I've used RM Stator for jobber electrical parts and so far so good. Hope this helps.

It's possible that the flywheel key has been damaged which lets the ignition timing get messed up. You'll need a puller to remove & inspect those parts.

If this is a Traxter model then it's likely a wiring issue. This was a common problem on those quads.

This quad is 15 years old and used daily by a rancher. Fortunately he brought it to me for repair before it was totally destroyed, haha! Because of a loose ball joint I have to replace the steering knuckle/spindle and the upper A-arm as well as the brake caliper, pads, etc. Surprising enough, the motor ran fine - even with over 10,000km & thousands of hours on it. Most Japanese quads are pretty durable.

Oh, it gets better! After fixing the stator, I looked at the front end and it was ugly...brakes worn right through the pad until the caliper piston contacted the disc!?

Just pulled this stator out of a Grizzly 700, unreal how crispy it got! Must have something to do with the owner running it off a car battery long after the stator quit. Anyone else see one this bad?

Have you been able to verify that there is enough oil feed to the cylinder head?

If it had bad fuel lines, that could make things worse alright. If they disintegrate then there might be more crud in the carb you just replaced/cleaned.

I'd start by connecting an inline spark tester to it so you can watch ignition while it's running. When the engine quits, so you still have spark? If so, then it's on to checking out the fuel system.

If you pull that rubber cover off you'll know....looks like it could be part of the lower half of the housing.

I like the look of the red! did you paint it yourself?

It was around that year they had a problem with cam chain guides wearing out. It would be nice to know if yours has the updated ones already. Good idea to keep the u-joints greased regularly and keep an eye on the brake pads as they wear out quickly.