spock58

Here's a suggestion for pulling a stuck axle out of a diff. I use a regular 6' tiedown that I wrap one end around the axle & the other is wrapped around a large hammer/sledge hammer handle, just below the head. With everything lined up right, you can swing the hammer which yanks the axle with more force than just pulling by hand. Give it a try, what's the worse that can happen - right?!

Not sure I follow you, this is a two clutch system in 2004 but isn't it just a centrifugal clutch and a shifting clutch? Isn't the DCT system in a lot newer quads than this one?

If you're searching for used parts to fix this beast, try PSN (PowerSportsNation) out of Norfolk, NE. They are a big outfit that specialize in parting out quads & UTV's, like 30+ machines a week.

I ran into a similar issue with an older Honda ATV, no spark & all the testing done wasn't successful. In the end, the part that had failed turned out to be the voltage regulator. This wasn't explained in any of the manuals & came as a surprise. Ended up being a cheap enough fix after many hours of troubleshooting! Hope this helps.

I'm curious - how do you know it isn't sparking under compression? That would be pretty hard to test for... On the other hand, doing a basic compression test might give an idea of the shape this engine is in.

On one of these Hondamatics I worked on, it sure acted like the centrifugal clutch was at fault. When the engine was cold, it worked normally but once warmed up it acted like clutch slipping. It wouldn't go very fast and uphills were not happening. Removed the clutch and it looked fairly burnt but not really worn out. Installed a new one and there was no difference, still slipped when hot. Ended up replacing the Hondamatic to get it working right. These transmissions are pretty reliable and have been in use for years but they can fail, especially the ones in the first couple of years before Honda updated the oil pumps. Unfortunately, there are many sensors & motors & electronics involved that lead to difficulty with troubleshooting.

It's also possible that the chain that drives the oil pump has stretched enough that it fell off the sprocket. This would cause a failure to drive as well. The chain is found behind the front crankcase cover near the centrifugal clutch.

I also own a first gen Rubicon that had a similar issue. After dealing with any diagnostic/fault codes (gauge will flash) the unfortunate outcome was a failed hondamatic with mine. Honda does not sell parts to fix them, it's only sold as a complete assembly. The oil pump was usually responsible for the transmission going bad so this part needs to be updated as well. It is a big job to complete and the parts will be very expensive if you go with new. That's what I did since the quad was in great shape otherwise.

It doesn't hurt to ensure that the fuel tank is venting properly, if it doesn't then the pressure can cause carb flooding. Some Yamaha's have gas caps that use ball bearings in them to prevent fuel loss if the machine tips over. These can get stuck and create problems. I'm not sure if these type of caps are used on their quads but I've found them on the off road bikes. The caps can be taken apart and the steel balls removed.

I'm familiar with the clutches on these quads, the difference is they utilize an engine braking system which is not on snowmobile CVT clutches. If everything in there checked out, then you may still have a problem relating to the electronic module. Could be its still not working properly.... Since they are likely not available new anymore, you'd have to find a "known good" used one which would be kind of rare. Good luck on your quest! (BTW, that's an inside joke - the quad you have was originally named the Quest I believe, at least here in Canada it was, haha)

Those early Can Am's weren't that popular and those engines didn't stay in production after the v-twins arrived. It's worth checking into the clutch operation, maybe there's something that's failed in there preventing the full shift and limiting the rpm's??

The BRP single cylinder 650 is a unique engine that does not have traditional valve adjustment. It does not use shims either & I believe the rocker arms have an automatic system similar to hydraulic lifters built in. The confusion is that the Outlander 650 is a V-twin with adjustable valve clearances - totally different engine.

Is your choke lever mounted on the left handlebar, under the switches? if it is the thumb-style lever I recently fixed one of those. See the link: there's a special washer setup that gives it friction to stay in the on position when required. Parts 13/14 did the trick. https://www.ronniesmailorder.com/oemparts/a/yam/50038e6ff870021f60a0c214/handle-switch-lever

The 2019 rzr 570 is efi so no carb involved. Need to check if the fuel pump is building pressure and go from there with the diagnoses.

I live near 100 Mile House and recommend the riding around here. Lots of guys from the lower mainland & Fraser valley head up here and ride. The Green Lake area is very popular and nothing is too difficult, perfect for all kinds of machines and abilities.

I'd suggest checking the valve clearances, a tight valve can cause issues.

It might be low on compression, have you done a test for that yet?

It's possible that the shift control motor has failed. Another thing to check is when the shift motor is removed from the engine, ensure that the gear it turns isn't stuck.

Those Honda's will flash a fault code if the system is working, the number of flashes gives you an indication of the area that failed. All connections need to be good - there's quite a few sensors that can act up & send it into "limp" mode.

Can Am Outlander 400's had voltage regulators that failed and needed updating. There was a new design that included a different wiring harness I believe. Not sure if this would be the issue here but it should be checked into.

With that Yamaha with no spark, the stator coils need to be tested. I've seen pickup/source coils fail on them a few times.

Ran into this problem recently on another Kodiak. It needed a new needle & seat (aka float valve) but it turns out the seat part had a bad o-ring. If this isn't replaced, the leak will persist.

My guess is the "fairly new" carb is a Chinese knock off. Sometimes they work great, other times not so much. Of course it may be the only one available for bikes/quads of this vintage. If it is one of those, possibly swapping jets to the original factory ones is the remedy. Good luck, it isn't an easy problem to solve!

Another trick is to delete the reverse lockout that the Kodiak's came with. Pretty easy to remove the cable that connects to the shifter. Once this is gone, you can find the sweet spot where the light comes on a lot better.

My guess is a plugged low speed (aka pilot) jet. It's very small and needs to be removed, cleaned with a strong carb cleaning chemical & hit with compressed air. Replacing them is sometimes the best bet.