davefrombc

You can get stripped nut and bolt remover sets. They have a reverse twist so when you drive the one that has the best bite onto the bolt head or nut they bite into it. When you turn them with your ratchet wrench the bite in deeper with the torque to remove the nut / bolt.

Sounds like no power to the ignition switch . All I can suggest is get a VOM or voltage probe and check for power at the input side of the switch. If no power there you have to trace back from there to battery to see where battery power stops.. If you have power at the ignition switch but not beyond , you found the culprit. As long as the neutral light is working and quad is in neutral that light should show when you turn ignition on .If the neutral safety switch is bad the light may or may not show but the quad starter won't engage on the button. When your quad is running do the lights shine brighter when you rev up and does your battery show charging voltage ( 13.2 to14v) and does the ignition switch turn off the quad? If yes, there is likely a broken wire or corroded connection preventing power to the ignition switch. There is a repair manual that should have an electrical schematic in the downloads section of the forum. Tracing faults can sometimes be a bi*** .. Hopefully you find the fault quickly.

https://www.washingtonpost.com/technology/2022/03/30/hunter-biden-laptop-data-examined/

I couldn't find the plug for that in any search. Why not replace it with a regular accessory socket? On my old Honda Fourtrax 300 FW I wired in accessory sockets on both the front and on the rear for running accessories .. My Honda has Honda's version of an accessory socket wired in on the front , but like your Yamaha , it is not a normal accessory outlet and although the plug is available the price of it is ridiculous. It uses the same plug as Honda generators use for their 12v DC outlet for battery charging. Most likely the plug you want is no longer used by Yamaha and they've gone to normal accessory sockets when fitted to newer machines. I'd clip those wires at the socket and replace the socket with a regular one that is readily available from any RV outlet. You could leave that unit as is if you wish and plumb in new wires and sockets like I did for power both front and back

The 36 tooth sprocket would make it slightly faster with slightly less pulling power. Not really enough to make any great difference in feel. About the only place you would notice the difference would be when you compare the top speed. The 36 tooth sprocket would go a couple of Mph faster.

The higher tensile strength chain would be best and definitely O ring chain will last longer unlubed. I saw a quote of the 8700 tensile strength for the OEM chain. In my search I came across a listing of 520 O-ring chain with a tensile strength of 8200 in an online listing by the US Walmart (.com) that as long as it is the right width for the sprockets should fit. As long as you're not beating that quad to the max the slightly lower strength chains should do the job. You'd have to count the links ( pitches) to order the chain and confirm price. I hope that helps.

My best guess is it is the piece that rides in the grooves on the long part second from top on the right---part of the shifting mechanism. It may have come off the part two images down from it . It also may have come off the part second from left on the bottom.

There should be some identifying numbers on the carb itself you should be able to use determine which one it is and get the specs for it

It may be a "primer". Used on some applications to give a shot of fuel mist to enrich the initial fuel charge for starting.

What gets me the most with "modern " things is so much of it is not made to be repairable; if it quits or breaks , toss it and buy a new one. So much gets tossed that could be easily fixed if there were repair parts and easy disassembly.

They look good in the ad, and really hard to go wrong with 4 for $17. I had to pay a lot more for ones for my old 1991 Honda 4trax 300FW 4x4 quad. By the way , I am a retired Sawmill millwright, who used to do all my own mechanical repairs on my vehicles and toys before everything went electronically controlled and needing specialized gear for some tests and repairs. My electrical knowledge from way back before nearly everything went solid state stems from the studying needed to get my HAM ticket in the days of much of the gear still using vacuum tubes .. I'm clueless about all the digital modes and much of the gear in use now ... At 78, I'm a dinosaur in the world of electronics now. If it is metal or simply wiring I can handle it , but get into the electronic controls and I'm at a loss beyond using a VOM checking values of sensors listed in a service manual

He's the quad mechanic with the most knowledge. The rest of us can only offer some help with suggestions from other limited general mechanical and electrical knowledge.

The manual for the 2009 model is here . All the service manuals the forum has for the various makes of ATVs can be found in the Downloads section. Hover on the downloads button up top and choose the section holding the files you're looking for . There is a breakdown of the makes on the right. Scroll down a bit to see it.

Look in the Suzuki section of the repair manual in the Downloads section here .

Found a download of the service manual for 2003 Cat ATVs . you can get it from here : https://support.countrycat.com/search?query=2003+ATV+service+Manual

There isn't one for your 500 in the downloads section here but there are for many arctic cats and most likely one for one of the older carburetted ones would serve for it too. Do you know the year of it?

Neither picture is right. Here is an exploded view of the carb on Partszilla https://www.partzilla.com/catalog/arctic-cat/atv/2005/500-manual-transmission-4x4-fis-red-a2005ibm4ausr/carburetor Any pictures I see of that carb on searches show 2 connected exterior hoses that's why I suggested it might be for the float bowl vent/ overflow drain. I cannot find a picture of the bottom of the carb in any search to see just what goes to the threaded hole. That carb is not exactly the same but it uses the same needle valve setup. Look for parts 5 & 6

The "brass pipe" on that carb might be a "hose barb" that screws into the carb (1/8" pipe tap or metric equivalent) to attach the hose to and the hose barb may be somewhere else in the box.

I suspect it is for a threaded fitting to connect a breather line to the float bowl

I am done with replying to your alternate universe in here. No amount of facts will stop the twists and turns the right will take in denying fact and accepting spin, half truths and outright lies. Have fun this thread is all yours.

The "truckers" "protesting" and blocking the border crossings and making asses of themselves in Ottawa have a small minority of the border crossing truckers, if any of them .. Over 90 % of the ones that were actually hauling cross border are vaccinated The truckers association has disavowed those idiots "protesting" saying they do NOT represent them . The majority in Ottawa want those fools to go home. Trudeau's mistake has been letting them carry on for far too long before cracking down on their illegal blockades of the border crossings. As far as the vaccines and masks working , I'm sorry I didn't realize you lot know more than the researchers, virologists, doctors and medical professionals about the virus, what works and doesn't work in keeping people safe and combatting the pandemic.

Yup. Remove all measures meant to limit the pandemic as much as possible . Too hell with those vulnerable to the virus. Why should anyone be inconvenienced to protect others? The only reason the pandemic killed so many and is still ongoing as much as it is id because so many refused to be inconvenienced by simple measures to protect themselves and others as much as possible . The deniers must be proud of their "accomplishments".

Enjoy your alternate universe.

There were likely far more came for economic reasons than fleeing from tyranny, but I'll let you search for data ( facts) that show it was more for escape from oppression.

So you claim they were not still in territory controlled by England at the time and are in the United States, which didn't come intro existence until the 1776 revolution? Tell me what were the reasons for the Revolution and the formation of the United States from the United Colonies?