davefrombc

Take the spark plug out and turn the motor over to see if you have spark a thumb over the spark plug hole will give you an indication if you have at least half way decent compression. There is a service manual that covers your quad in the downloads section of the forum.

I haven't used one. That one was one f many that popped up on a search and looked like it should mount quite solidly compared to some of the others that came up.

Here's one https://www.theatvsuperstore.com/Suzuki-King-Quad-2-Receiver-Hitch-p/1191cmp.htm

With an ammeter in the circuit look to see if there is a draw with the key off. If there is , disconnect the voltage rectifier / regulator. If the draw stops you found the culprit . If I diode blows you very well could be showing charging voltage but with a large ac ripple . Alternators put out 3 phase ac. The rectifier turns that into dc which the regulator limits to charging voltage , typically 13.2 to 14.5 v. If a diode goes open there will be a large ripple in the charging voltage but if it blows shorted you will not only have the ripple charging and all the unstable electronics that goes with it , but key off the battery would drain back through the shorted diode. Doing a bit of search brings up several sites where people are seeking help with Polaris rectifiers / regulators. I didn't think to mention this when I posted. Yammy may very well have hit on it .

Have you put an ammeter in line with the battery to see if it is taking any charge? you may be seeing charging voltage but that doesn't necessarily mean the battery is being charged.. Are the battery terminals clean of corrosion?. If there is too much corrosion there can be 14v at the terminal but the resistance from the corrosion will not let the current get to the battery. Most vehicles can run on the alternator alone once started , but many now require a battery be in the system to . The battery may be be just connected enough the system sees it and will run but as the battery draws down the system fails.. Newer electronic systems are a lot different than the old mechanical ones. . Clean terminals and connections and check with an ammeter to see if the battery is rally getting a charge. From there you will have some idea where to go next. What voltage does the battery show after being charged and let sit for a few hours with no draw on it ? the battery could be faulty. A fully charged battery should show about 12.6 volts a few hours after charging. Another thing might be it isn't a battery problem at all, but something in the ignition or fuel system electronics heating up and failing after an hour or so of running. How do you restart the quad after it has shut down from low battery?

In BC, road permits are issued free from the local detachment office for the area you want to drive in . There are 2 insurances required to ride here .. The ICBC insurance is for crossing main roads at intersections and driving on secondary road shoulders. The other is liability insurance for riding on forest service roads and other Crown land .. That insurance is normally cheaper through private companies. I have no idea on the requirements in Alberta.

It depends on where you are. In BC, Canada, you have to be licensed and have a minimum $200,000 Liability insurance to cross main roads and also may drive on the shoulder of secondary roads with a permit from the local police department. You must also have separate liability insurance to ride on public land. There is no requirement for running or signal lights here. You need to check with your state/ provincial laws for the requirements for you and your quad there . The rules can be very different depending on the location.

Their specs claim 18w..... 6 x 3w LEDs per light and only one needed for a head lamp; and only draw~1.5A. They're 4" lamps, not a light bar. Only one would be needed for a headlamp, not both. He could use the second on another project. . A 180w light bar would be insanely bright and too wide for a big single seat quad. On the Canadian Amazon site I found one lamp that only drew 9w, but didn't see the same one in the US site

You should be able to add both using LED lights. Here's a link to a pair of 18w 12v flood lights for example .https://www.amazon.com/Nilight-ZH009-Lights-Harness-Warranty/dp/B06XRZW1LD/ref=psdc_15730331_t2_B09174JSRK Just one of them should make more than enough light for the little Suzuki.. There are others available that would be suitable and run from 9w up you should be able to find with a search on 12v LED flood lights. There are all sorts of LED tail/ stop lights you could adapt for the back and most , if not all, would only use a couple of watts.

Ok.. That was the only thing I could think of when you said you'd worked on the carb and had gas in the crankcase. I know of it being done before so as I said , I could only suggest the possibility with the info I had .. When you find the problem please let us know.. Take care and happy riding . I'm wondering since the carb has been fine since you worked on it If the drain line was connected to the crankcase , the float may have stuck and flooded allowing the drain line to run the overflow to the crankcase. Just curious musing on my part .

From what you describe, I would guess it's your routing of "vacuum" lines. You have likely connected the crankcase vent line to a fuel drain or possibly a "PRImer" line on the carb.. Only guesses because I am not familiar with your Quadrunner. There should be a relevant service manual in the downloads section.. You need either a paid membership OR 10 posts in the forum to download the manuals. Here is the link to download it. I hope you get it running well, Let us know when you get it sorted out . Every solved problem is a help to those following who may have the same or similar trouble. The snow is retreating and trails are opening up in the north.. Sometimes we envy Florida's endless summer, but when we follow the news, that's about all we envy about "The Flower" state at this time .

There is no flux core wire for MIG welding aluminum. MIG welding aluminum is with shielding gas only. TIG welding or brazing with flux coated rods could build up the parts, but an expensive waste of time and effort. If you've never welded aluminum before I can pretty much guarantee instead of having built up parts you can try to sand smooth and balanced, you will end up with melted mess instead of clutch parts . Aluminum doesn't grind well. It plugs up grind stones and disks. Aluminum melts before it changes colour. Apply too much heat to an area too long and it goes from solid to melted with no warning. Welding aluminum is a special skill not like steel welding which is forgiving of mistakes .. There is no forgiveness in aluminum welding . Work on getting the motor to run first . If it is ok then look for a replacement clutch assembly.. Trying to fix that one will be an expensive lesson in frustration.

View File 1988 Yamaha Blaster Service Manual Found on a Blaster specific forum https://www.blasterforum.com/threads/yamaha-blaster-parts-service-and-owner-manuals-free-download.17325/ Submitter davefrombc Submitted 04/17/2022 Category Yamaha ATV  

There is a copy of the '88 Blaster service manual and a link to a Blaster specific forum in the downloads section now.

Here is a write-up on the 1988 Blaster. According to it they are a 200CC 2 stroke. I don't know why the VIN keeps coming up invalid. https://offroadingpro.com/yamaha-blaster/

As far as I can tell from searching your quad is a 1988 model, but try as I might I can't get a decode on that vin number. Are you sure that vin is correct? Some searches bring up nothing , others say the vin is invalid. One forum that had a link supposed to decode it was hijacked sending searcher off to a scam. Try contacting Yamaha directly and see if they'll help you.

Some of the manuals will have it stated in the .pdf's what years and models they cover. I can't help beyond that. The best I can suggest is look for one that covers the one you want whether it states for that year or not . If for a newer model than you have look to see if it states the older ones are covered also in the manual when you open it.. Most models with the same engine size will have very similar electrical components although their wiring colour code may be different and component location may be different .. The only cases where there would be huge differences would be is where the older model was carburetted and the newer one fuel injected with it's associated electronics the older model wouldn't have.

This manual was for the 2002 YFM450far but the electrical on your quad should be nearly the same , if not identical. There are also manuals in the Quadcrazy downloads section. Do you have a local ATV club or association? Very possibly if you do you may find a member there that would be willing to help you trace out the problem with your rig. You may find a tutorial on Youtube that would help you learn how you use your multimeter to check out the electrical system on your quad. 2002 Yamaha yfm450far_2.pdf

https://support.countrycat.com/search?query=Service+manual+for+2006+400

There's a few on here glad to help out others and new comers to the forum as much as we can. I have minimal knowledge on ATV's as such. My experience is mainly on older cars , before all the electronics and fuel injection came into the picture. I have a basic knowledge of electronics , but it's very basic , and I can often help in the search for service manuals. At 78, I have a little more "free time" to search than others whose week doesn't consist of 7 Saturdays, but I sure miss those Payday Fridays. Pension hours are great , but the pay needs improvement.

Pull the spark plug and squirt a bit of oil into the cylinder before you try to spin it over.. If there is any water in it it could jam on it and do some damage and if dry the oil will help the rings break loose from the cylinder walls. That clutch assembly is toast as far as I'm concerned and with that much corrosion there it make me wonder about the rest of the motor .

Here is the complete wiring schematic. Once you have reached the minimum posts level you will be able to download the complete service manual from the downloads section here. 94Honda 300FW wiring.pdf

I copied this page from the service manual here in the forum's download section.. It appears from that illustration it is likely the CDI box. Honda 300FW.pdf