davefrombc

Got this off a Polaris forum The specified juice is Polaris Premium Synthetic Gearcase Lubricant PN 2871477 (Gallon) PN 2871478 (12 oz..) Capacity: . . . . At change: Approx. 20 oz. You could use ATF, Harley high shock synthetic transmission oil, Bel Ray Big Twin transmission lube, (my favorite) Honda two stroke transmission oil or any JASO rated 5w20 through 20w50 multi grade engine oil approved for use in motorcycles that lube the transmission with the same oil as the engine. Shop Owner and Mechanic with over 50 years experience

I'd be hesitant to use a brush cutter attachment for a quad. I think sharp stubs of brush could likely too easily puncture tires. One would be ok for mowing jobs. I can't see it as a haying machine.

The Big Bear 400 is air cooled and the Kodiak 400 is water cooled according to their specs I found on line .

My guess is the transmission is locked in two gears; possibly one forward and the reverse. There should be a service manual in the downloads section here to help you with diagnosing and fixing the problem.

Is that a center saver under the tip of the puller rod? It looks like if there is, it appears slightly off center / too large for the shaft and catching on the clutch preventing the clutch from moving out when I blow up the picture.

There's something not indexed right in tranny assembly then That is most likely the reason for the lock up. There should be a manual in the downloads section that can help.

Is it possible you have the wrong length bolts in the clutch assembly? I've seen car motors locked up because in replacing a motor they used bolts for a manual shift flywheel to install a flex plate for an automatic. The longer bolts contacted the motor block when tightened and effectively seized the motor. Something similar could be happening in the Honda if one or more long bolts got swapped in where shorter ones were called for.

Just my 2 cents in , but if there are "decent dents" in the piston, check it very closely for cracks too

Did you check the fuel line to the carb for restrictions? It may be the float bowl isn't filling fast enough.

Try using a jumper cable directly from the battery to the starter to see if that spins it over faster. The wires from the starter solenoid to the starter should not be getting hot if the starter is not dragging. They may be too small to deliver proper voltage and current to the starter. If it spins the motor over with the jumper cable then change out the starter wires for heavier ones. If there is no difference then you need to look for why the starter is dragging.

I run 5 psi in the tires on my old '91 Honda Fourtrax 300FW. The tires are rated for 7psi max. It is also a solid axle rear , full time 4x4 and as such has the turning circle of a pickup truck and a harsher ride than the newer independent suspension rigs with selectable 2- 4WD. Simple , dead reliable old technology but much easier to maintain like most of the old Hondas and Suzukis. 5 psi is fine in your quad, and you could easily run them at the recommended 4.4 psi. The low pressure gives a little less harsh ride and better grip in rough terrain. Hard core 4x4 offroaders drop their vehicle tires from highway 30 -50 psi pressures down to as low as 10 - 15psi. Some with bead lock rims drop pressures into the single digits for rock crawling. Softer tires give better grip and ride , harder tires give better fuel mileage and handling on the highway.

Fuel valve left on and the carb flooded either from a bad seat or stuck float. You'll need to completely drain the crank case and refill with fresh oil, drain and clean the air box and find out why the carb flooded. Pull the spark plug and make sure the cylinder is not also flooded.

Check the float level as well as all the items Mark mentioned. It could be too low.

I would blame worn starter brushes not making proper contact. When you have the starter engaged and give it a turn with the kick start it is enough movement to make the brushes make better contact and spin the starter. I had similar trouble with my '91 Foutrtrax 300FW. New brushes fixed it .

Your wires look like a nightmare to deal with now. Here is a download of a Raptor 660 service manual that should have a wiring diagram for you to follow. Hopefully the color coding it shows corresponds to your machine. Sorry I can't help more than that.

The most common cause of that is a faulty voltage regulator.

A handy tool to have is an in line spark tester. Sometimes you can have spark when the plug is out of the cylinder but the spark fails when under compression . The inline tester will show you if it is sparking without having to pull the plug.

He likely meant the pick up coil . it's what mounted inside the stator and picks up the pulse from the flywheel magnets

You can get reverse twist drill bits to drill the broken bolt and extractors to remove it. one as small as a valve cover bolt would be a challenge to drill on center but often with the reverse twist drill bits the broken screw/ bolt will spin out without needing to use the extractor. Congrats on getting it running .. It was likely a combination of all you did that got it to start rather than any one thing. most motors will run with valves widely out of spec as long as there is sufficient compression. They don't run well but usually at least try to run.

The set you show there is a 2 step set. Each blade has 2 sizes on it . The outer end will be the thinner one .. You'd use the . 010-012 to set the valve at .010. Then to check if it is too tight at what you felt is .010 you'd drop to the .009 -.010 to see if it was moderately snug on .010 but slid easily at .009. Then to check the other way to see if you had it too loose you'd go to the .010 - .012 to see if it slid through the gap on the .012 portion of the blade ... Precision Go ( setting ok) or No Go (setting too tight or too loose) Gauges like those are used when settings are required to be precise and allow a quick check of the setting when the critical dimension is to the plus or minus side of center. Most feeler gauges are single size for the whole blade. To check go or no go with them you'd try the sizes above and below your desired one to check accuracy . Use the gauge with the gap you want on the outer part of the blade .. if critical is closer use the .010 -.008 gauge if tolerance is .001, or the .010 - .012 if critical is looser for example . those blades allow checking with .oo1 or. 002 tolerance levels .

I would like to see some of the new battery technology they're working on pan out with more capacity and less chance of fire if they get wet. If worried about running out of juice leaving you stranded, a small generator could be carried. It would take some time to get any amount of juice but it could limp you back Some SXS's have enough room for a couple of roof top solar panels. LOL Wouldn't get you very far , very fast , but.......

Couldn't edit my post when I saw the error. Check to see if there is power from the battery to the starter solenoid, not the starter as I said in the beginning of the post.

Check to see if there is power from the battery to the starter. If there is power there then jump the terminals that trigger the solenoid. If the starter does not spin over then leave those terminals connected and check to see if there is power to the starter side of the solenoid. No power from battery to solenoid , the break is there . No power across the solenoid with the trigger wires jumped , then fault is in the solenoid, If there is power across the solenoid when the trigger wires are jumped then fault is in the wire from the solenoid to the starter.. The starter is internally grounded and since it spins over when a wire is run directly from the positive battery terminal the battery ground is good. If everything checks out by jumping those terminals , the fault is in the start switch, a safety switch or the wires to the solenoid and the click you hear when pressing the start button is from somewhere else

It's great to have members here who can give specific help information Curtis. Ones like myself can only give general information and hints of where to look, mostly from pre-computerized, carburetted / points and condenser automotive days, with a smattering of electrical wiring. Beyond offering guesses of where to look and help finding manual downloads and general mechanical info. Beyond that, I have to dig into the manuals myself .

I suspect it is a fuel mixture problem.. Have you played with the mixture screws? What notch is the main jet needle in on the slide?. Is the idle air screw turned all the way in?. It usually is anywhere from 11/2 to 2 1/2 turns out from lightly seated. Have you downloaded the service manual from the downloads section Here? you might get some idea where to start on carb settings in it. If you're getting spark the rectifier and rest of the ignition system is likely ok.. getting any kick from the motor when you choke it with your hand over the inlet is usually because there is something plugged or badly miss set on the carb. or an air leak on the inlet making it far too lean