davefrombc

Found this: http://www.maultechatv.com/techguides/Service Manuals/YAMAHA/Kodiak 400 2000-2001.pdf Exploded view of the differential is on page 233.

There is a coupling between the drive shaft for the rear differential and the pinion gear. I suspect that is broken, or splines stripped out. I found the link for the service manual. There is an exploded view of the assembly in it . You can download the pdf of the service manual for your quad here: https://www.hightail.com/download/elNLQk05bThUWUFLSk1UQw

US ATV regulations : https://www.cpsc.gov/Safety-Education/Safety-Education-Centers/ATV-Safety-Information-Center/State-ATV-Information/ Canadian ATV regulations : http://www.parachutecanada.org/downloads/policy/All_Terrain_Vehicle_Legislation_Chart_May_2012.pdf

Page 33 of that manual shows the shift pattern

I believe the Big Bear clutch is centrifugal. The levers on the hand grips both operate the brakes if I am not mistaken. Try rocking the quad back and forth while pressing down on the shift lever to see if it will shift down and into neutral. Most foot operated gear shifts have neutral as the first position and to get reverse, you press a button or pull a button / lever to press the gear shift into reverse, below neutral. I found a pdf for the 350 Big Bear... neutral is at the bottom, reverse is below that after you activate the reverse knob. This manual shows for the 1999 model , but it should be the same trans and shift pattern for the '87 http://www.yamaha-motor.com/assets/service/manuals/1999/Lit-11626-12-49_325.pdf

Unless they have recently improved quality control I'd be very wary of the Chinese quads. Nearly al I've heard of locally have developed electrical / ignition problems before they had a lot of use. Of the Japanese / American made quads, I'd say only the older Polaris 2 stroke ones I know of have had any problems more than the others. Honda , Suzuki, Yamaha and Kawasaki all fall into personal preference choices .. I bought my '94 Honda Fourtrax 300 full time 4x4 used, have ridden it 4 years since purchase and all I have had to do is replace the rear axle and hubs because the splines have worn out on them. That is a pretty common problem with 22 year old Hondas. A friend bought a very hard run 1984 Honda trx 200. It still runs fin , but the framework for the rear axle was all cracked and broken.. My little wirefeed welder and some gussets have taken care of that problem. My other riding friend's 1994 Suzuki Quadrunner needs wheel bearings replaced.. All have no problems with their motors or transmissions. I prefer the shaft drive quads, others may prefer the chain driven ones for their simplicity and ease of modifying for racing, but at 73, my racing days are pretty much done. Others may have much different opinions , but I feel any of the older four stroke Japanese quads will serve you well if their previous owners have taken reasonably good care of them. If you did any wrenching of the cars you raced , you should have no problems maintaining a quad . If it is running well and all the gears work, all you should be faced with is routine maintenance to keep them that way . The one old Polaris 2 stroke quad was a disaster with multiple problems , the least of which was the broken reeds that shut it down.

Sorry , I can't help with it, but there should be lots of information on the net if you search on it .. Bogging on acceleration was very common on cars and utility vehicles that relied on accelerator pumps to momentarily enrich the mixture when the throttle was opened quickly. The accelerator pump will be a part of the carburettor.. it may be operated by the vacuum "can" on the Suzuki's carb.. One the older cars and carbs on some ATVs it was an actual plunger in a "tube" in the carb that gave a small shot of gas when the throttle was opened .. on other carbs , it is a needle valve that is opened by the movement of the throttle or a vacuum can. Fortunately I haven't had to get into the carbs or ignition/ electrical systems on my quad (Honda) or my friends Suzuki, so I can't give you first hand advice on working on them. I can only give you a clue where to look for a possible solution to the problem.

Sounds like the accelerator pump isn't working properly.

Sorry , I can't help you there . You'll have to go by the manual....unless a Suzuki owner can chime in here and help. I haven't been into the valves on my Honda or my friends Suzuki..... yet....

The usual starting point on most carb needle jets is 1 1/2 turns from closed. From there you just have to try opening and closing in small increments to refine the settings. When you redid the carb , did you make sure all the passages were clear?... You can use the "canned air" sold for blowing dust and crap out of electronics to also clear passages in carbs if you don't have a compressor and air gun handy. I would pull the carb again and double check everything .. Check the float height adjustment, jets and passages for obstructions. Then reassemble , set jets 1 1/2 turns from closed and start from there.

I have the pdf for the 1987- 1998 Quad Runner 250. I believe it is also useful for lt250's

Try tapping on the neutral switch relay when it is in neutral and the light won't come on. The problem could be in the relay.

It sounds to me like there is a "plunger" or whatever activates the neutral switch out of adjustment or sticking . If you changed the switch, my guess is it is out of adjustment. Without seeing the switch and its location I can only guess on how it works... There could be a little flat that allows a lever/ plunger to drop into to close the contacts in the switch and it is not lining up without putting some pressure on the shift lever , or there is a little bump (cam) on the part that activates the switch and the switch is not close enough for that cam to close the switch. Switches can be made to either have a lever/ plunger push to close , or have a space for the switch's lever/ plunger to drop into to close.

Have a very Happy and Safe Thanksgiving everyone.

If you find the VIN number, you should be able to find the year by searching on it .. Look on the lower frame on the left between the engine and the front A frame.

I think the biggest shock is yet to come after he is inaugurated... I'm confident I'll get to say " I told you so " before his first year is out .... Appalachia and the rust belt will be first to learn he cannot deliver his promises to them.

It's looking like by about February / March I'm going to get to say to my American friends " I told you so ". Trump will prove to be Trump to the detriment of America.

That meme has the revolver chambers reversed. It should show the Trump revolver loaded with 6 chambers full of dumdums. Tomorrow will tell the tale of where the US will be headed.. The world is watching the election more than it has any other. Whether you believe what I say or not .. Get out and vote for your choice. Don't sit at home and complain about who won if you don't vote ..Not voting is a vote for the worst in America, and that means who you think is the worst, not who others do. Support your candidate, or don't complain on the results of the election.

Sounds like either a needle valve not adjusted right, or a plugged passage in the "rebuilt" carb.. Is there an "enrichening " valve or choke on the motor? If a choke , is it closing ?.. If it is an enrichening valve , I would guess either it is not adjusted properly (needle valve needs adjusting) or the passage is plugged. Holding your hand over the carb is choking the motor so it pulls more gas in, enrichening the mixture so it can cold start. Does the motor start fine when warm ? If so, it is not getting a rich enough mix to start cold due to one of the reasons I mentioned.. Not starting hot or cold without choking with your hand could be several things , including the float level set too low so the carb doesn't fill with gas to the proper level.

I can't tell you how difficult it would be to take the starter off the Arctic cat, but most quad motors are very similar. Starters are usually held on by only two or 3 bolts; and on the Hondas and Suzukis they connect to the starting gears by a splined shaft, so the only difficulty is actually in having the room to slide the starter out. The starters themselves are usually held together by only two long bolts. They come apart easily , but sometimes it is fun getting back together with the brushes on the commutator properly. If the winch is a Warn, it is a high end name brand. brushes and parts should be readily available .. If it doesn't spin over by bypassing the solenoids, the most common reason for no go is usually the brushes not contacting the commutator properly due to one sticking , or corrosion/ crud keeping them from making proper contact .. Freeing and cleaning , or changing the brushes usually cures the problem...Worst case would be burnt wires in the rotor, requiring a new one, but that isn't common. 90% or more of the time it is a brush problem. Search Youtube for videos on servicing the starters on quads, and also for the winch motors. You may find one on the exact units you are working on. If there is no dealer nearby for whatever parts you need , E-bay is a good place to look for parts at very competitive prices.

It could be the relay, but if you see power to one terminal, it very likely is a problem in the brushes.Try powering the winch from jumper cables to bypass the solenoid..... If no go then , the problem is definitely internal to the winch motor.

I agree, whoever you support, get out and vote. I certainly hope Clinton would take the US on a different direction than the extreme right has been taking it. I've said before .. The kind of change Trump would bring to America is not the kind of change you think he'd bring ; and I seriously doubt you'd like the change he'd bring.... I hope I won't be put in a position of saying " I told you so ". 4 more days and we'll learn where it will be headed next year. We'll be following the results election night on this side of the border just as closely as you will on your side of it.

Whenever you have dimmed lights or something like tail/ brake lights working with headlamps off, but not when on, the first thing to check is the ground for the lights or display. The same applies for starters not spinning over properly. Check the ground cable first if you know the battery is fully charged. One trick many don't know is to cover the battery terminals with grease or vaseline. It protects them from corrosion from acid vapors from the battery and from general corrosion associated from the air and road grime/ salt that might find its way to the terminals. It's a trick you should use on all your mobile gear , from quads , bikes, boats to your car and truck. The newer SLA and gel batteries aren't nearly as prone to terminal corrosion, but greasing them still helps keep other corrosive contaminants like salt off them.

A recent poll of Canadians showed 80 % are afraid of a Trump Presidency.. I wouldn't say afraid, but I and the rest of the 80% don't see any good coming from him. I'm quite sure if you checked polls in the rest of the US's trading partners you would find similar results.. Only die hard Trumpsters refuse to face reality.