davefrombc

Either rings or valves.. Check the valves to be sure neither of them are being held open by maladjusted valve lash . If they are set correctly then it is most likely a ring problem. There is a way to check to see if blow by is due to a bent or burnt valve or rings. It requires a compressor though .. You bring the piston to exactly top dead center on compression. Connect and air hose to the spark plug hole and apply pressure. If you are at top dead center, the piston will not move down.... any off either side of TDC and you have to try again because the piston will move down and a valve will open. Once you have the piston TDC and pressure in the cylinder you will be able to tell if pressure is getting by the valves and escaping out the carburettor or is coming out of the crankcase breather because of bad rings.

I would suspect the neutral safety switch is faulty. If it fails open it will not allow the starter to run.

Couldn't do anything with the vin .. It wasn't recognized by the c decoders , but I did find the companies address in China .. You could try contacting them directly and see if they can help identify it and any dealers they have in the US or Canada. Their web addy is http://zhouyongjian.company.weiku.com/ I see there are cracks in the frame need welding up before he rides it .

Just use screw drivers that are a proper fit for the slots. When you screw in the jets they only need to be seated snugly. . Do not over tighten them. Turn down until they seat and that's it.

I'm not sure what your smoke is .. It could be from ring blow by if it is smoke from fuel actually igniting even though the motor refuses to start or it could be water vapor if there is a lot of humidity and cold air from the crank case " breathing". There will be movement in and out of the crankcase as the piston moves up and down in the bore. You normally don't see that because the crankcase breather is normally connected to the air box so it is "breathing " clean air and it is the only way the air has access to the crank case. The reason this happens is because as the piston rises to the top of the bore for intake or exhaust it is in effect making the airspace inside the motor greater, so air comes in to fill that space. When the piston moves down in the intake stroke or power stroke , it effectively makes the air space in the crank case smaller, compressing the air in there which then vents out through the breather tube to the air box. There isn't a great deal of air exchanged during each cycle , but if that breather was plugged, any ring blow by would build pressure in the crank case and soon blow the seals in the motor. Under perfect conditions of zero blow by, you would never get crank case pressure build up since the piston moving in the bore would only slightly raise and lower crank case pressure as the volume changed up and down with the stroke. Long story to say that light air flow you find is perfectly normal and expected.

America needs to do is go back to the tax regime of the '50's where corporations and the rich needed to reinvest in their companies and charities ( " social programs" were never mentioned as such because of military / industrial propaganda demonizing anything "social" with the dreaded Communism and Socialism of the time) I'm afraid anyone looking for the GOP tax cuts to be good for those in the middle and lower incomes is going to be sadly disappointed. Removing the controls on lenders and cutting taxes on the big business and the 1% is going to lead to the deficits ballooning and another big crash such as was caused by Reagan's "trickle down " voodoo economics . America needs to invest in education, healthcare and infrastructure. It certainly doesn't need another big jump in military spending and tax breaks for the rich; neither of which do a thing for the well being of the population. Without education to develop and use the technology and new products or the infrastructure to carry those goods to market Americans are going to keep falling behind as they see the advances others are making. What good are new stealth military aircraft when bridges are falling down and streets are crumbling?

Good luck if you think the GOP and tRump's " tax cuts" are going to put any more money in your pocket unless you are part of the 1%. I'll take our Canadian single payer healthcare system. Paid for through taxes that cost us far less than any plan in the US. No co-pay, we choose our doctor, no exclusions for pre-existing conditions and no caps. It's not perfect by any means , but everyone is covered and nobody has to go broke because they had the audacity to have a child or get sick or injured.

Bogging under part throttle is almost always due to fuel starvation. Clean the carb again.. Look for tiny jets plugged.. Some orifices are easy to miss. Use "canned air" to blow our passages if you don't have a source of compressed air.. Welders tip cleaner sets have wires that fit nearly every jet and orifice.

You can make your own spacers out of aluminum round stock . Drill and tap the spacers if you're going to weld them on; otherwise through drill them and deepen the holes in the case to re-thread them. . Use sealant on the new bolts if you break into the interior of the case. Make sure new bolts don't interfere with the internal parts. If welding spacers on the case, be very careful not to warp the case or damage the bearing and seal behind the output sprocket.

Is there enough depth left in the bolt holes to deepen the threads enough to hold a new guard on ? You might be able to drill them a little deeper if necessary and if you break into the interior of the case , you could use sealant on the bolts . You'd need to make sure the bolts are long enough to hold without being so long as to not tighten down if the bottom out or interfere with the internals if they holes got right into the interior of the case. I'd smooth out both mounting points and cut spacers to bring them out to original length if you can find a new, old stock or used guard, or if unable to do that fab up a new sprocket guard yourself.

Just how dry is the county considering the history of the area ? Old traditions and thirsts die hard and there's all sorts of us like reviving some old traditions. Somehow I can picture quads replacing the old hot rods albeit on a much smaller scale

I'd weld up the crack and also gusset to both bars

I don't think the idler gear could fall out without the cases being split apart. If you couldn't find anything else loose in there that could have fallen down and interfered with rotor and one way clutch behind it . I don't know where the noise would have been coming from.. As I said, I've never had to tear one apart, so I can only make semi-educated guesses from my automotive experience. Try rotating the gear train that makes the clutch engage to start the engine and see if you notice any noise or roughness there .. I doubt it will engage the motor and lock up to start since the rotation speed would be so slow and I think the one way clutch would need a fairly fast rotation to engage.

Likely something in the gearing for the starter. That would be why it was locking up with the starter in place.

Check the Warrior service manual in the downloads section for a wiring diagram. Possibly the start relay is faulty. Since you have changed all the ignition components , it must be something in the circuit is open.

Did you also change the pick up (trigger) coil and check the spark plug ? Often it is just the pick up that fails.

I haven't had to mess with the ignition and cam timing on a quad motor so I cannot be sure , but I believe the sprockets are keyed to the shafts and are not adjustable. I believe about the only thing that could take them partially off center would be wear on the sprocket teeth and chain stretch.. Neither should have a great effect on the timing and how the engine responds.. If the chain jumped a tooth or more due to wear and a loose slack adjuster, I believe the timing would be much farther out and the motor would be greatly effected at all speeds from idle up. I don't believe that is your problem. The most likely is fuel problems , with a much less likely possibility of weak spark.

It sounds like it is starving for fuel.. I'd start by adjusting the idle air screw. Start at about 1 1/2 to 2 turns out from seated. and try in 1/4 turn adjustments out or in to see if that cures the idle and accelerate from idle problem .. also check for air ( vacuum) leaks. If that doesn't do it then I'd suggest taking the carb apart and recheck float height and carb jets and passages for blockages. . Even a brand new carb could hacve some manufacturing debris in it , and rebuilt could have a missed blockage or float height set wrong .

I did a search on your quad to find out what the diaphragm on the fuel valve was all about. .Found out it is for an automatic fuel shut off and seems to be problematic. Check this thread I found if your valve has that feature .. Says you can block the vacuum lines and run the quad with the valve in the Pri position. http://www.suzukiatvforums.com/forums/repair-maintenance/3970-vacuum-operated-fuel-tank-valve-petcock.html

Downloads ok with Firefox too, and opens with my Adobe Acrobat no problems. It should open without problem in any .pdf reader.

2003 Polaris Magnum 330 parts manual View File Parts manual with exploded views Submitter davefrombc Submitted 11/07/2017 Category Polaris ATV  

Couldn't find a free download of the service manual , but did find a parts manual that might help . I uploaded it to the Polaris section in Downloads

I would suspect the voltage regulator or the alternator. There's also the possibility the power steering is drawing too much power for some reason and the momentary voltage drop is causing the ignition or fuel injectors to cut out. When you have the motor revved up the alternator is putting out more power so you wouldn't get the large drop and cut out. I don't think it is the ECU.

The year should be coded in the VIN number. Here is a site explaining VIN coding on ATVs. http://www.atvstyle.com/atv-vin-number As far as chasing down a fault, Start at the starter circuit .. Since you get a spark when you release the start button , it indicates to me there is no current to the ignition while the starter is activated , but there is when it is released. I would strongly suspect the starter relay or the wire from it that supplies ignition current when it is activated.