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Good info Dave. I've come to that conclusion only recently, but at this time the ATV is at my home in Panama where I will be in January. So please wait and I will be sure to let everyone know what finally fixes it. I intend to take the crash bars, and plastic totally off and go through all the wires, as we have a lot of corrosion problems there. Also have a fuel problem that comes and goes, so I will be replacing all the gas and vent lines, cleaning the carb again and cleaning out the fuel tank and filter (which is where I think that problem stems. Thanks, Larry.

I checked the fuse...okay. Disconnected battery overnight...still dim. Maybe the grounds are getting corroded? When I get back I will start with that. I'm in another country right now and won't be back until January, so be patient, I will be back on this subject then. Thanks, Larry

I have had the connector apart. The contacts were nice and clean, I should have checked voltage. Odd thing is, the fading is mostly from outside in, with the outside areas dark fading to light.

2005 Arctic Cat LE 500cc. This last year the led readout has basically faded to where you can barely see it. This cat is always covered or inside, when not riding, so it's not due to sunlight fadeout I don't believe. Where does it get its' power from Is it from ECU under the seat?

Thanks, got the axel nut and hub off with LP torch and breaker bar with 4 foot extension. Now, I can't get the bolts out of the brake disc. Torx head, which is good, I have that, but so far heat won't loosen them. Got her done. I filed the edges of the disc bolts so I could get a vice grip on them, then a little heat and they came out slick. Then I was able to pound the studs in. Man, they are tight. Got it all back together and ready to ride. By the way, the axle nut is a 30mm or 1 3/16. Thanks for everyone's help.

Okay, heated the studs and got them knocked out. Problem now is the new studs are so tight I've already stripped one of the stud nuts. So, now I have to take off the axle nut and take the whole disc and brake off. Question is, is the axle nut left hand thread or right hand thread? clockwise or counterclockwise? And heat hasn't worked on that so far. I may have to split it to get it off, but would be good to know which way to try and remove it

Thanks, studs and nuts have been received at my friends and I'm waiting for him to bring with him when he comes here to Panama.

Thanks, I just got that offer too. Still, it took 3 trys for them to accept it. Finally worked.

Doesn't work.

Does anyone have a discount code for "dirtcheapatvparts.com"?

Does anyone have a current discount coupon or promo code for "dirtcheapatvparts.com" ?

What are you talking about? What's YMM and issue? Can't find the post. Why would you do this? You get such few posts on here as it is, why would you want to screw with this?

Just saw your post. I also have a 2005 500 auto. 99.9% of the time it starts immediately. But, there are a few things that will cause it to not start at all. 3 things...Make sure you have fuel, spark, and air. Air seems to be the most common problem when it will not start at all for me. There is an air line from the fuel pump to the carb. If this is broken, it will not start. There is another breather air line from the carb that has to be at least 12" to 16" long and not broken. (it just hangs there) If this is broken or too long, it will not start. Sometimes little mud wasps pack it full, and it will not start. I speak from experience! I'd be interested to know if you found out the cause (by this time you must have solved the problem).

What...nobody knows the the stud thread size??? I haven't even gotten a response from DirtCheapParts which is usually pretty reliable.

All my studs on the wheels have the beginning 3/8 inch worn by rust as have each lugnut, so their integrity is very poor. Especially since not much of the stud extends beyond the wheel to begin with, and several of the lug nuts have no purchase at all, so they won't even stay on. My question first off is, "what is the thread size of these studs, and how difficult are they to punch out and replace"? I see new ones are available. I would hate to take a hammer to the old stud to knock it out only to break the wheel hub. Does anyone have any knowledge of this situation?

Okay, after all, it's almost always the simplest answer. When this problem began, I remembered that the breather hose from the carburetor was difficult to get at. I regularly get mud wasps in the hose and have to clean it out, so I decided to get a new longer hose. Well, apparently that restricted enough air so that it would starve for air on the long tough hills. I cut the hose down to about 10 inches and "voila" the problem was solved. Now, I have plenty of power for those long uphill roads (we can travel on the highway here in Panama) through the mountains. No more bogging down. Thanks for all your suggestions, they were still on the money for possible solutions for this type of problem and they did lead me to the carburetor for the end result.

Interesting observation. I will be attempting to remove my housing soon and give the carb a cleaning out.

Ultimately, it would seem, I need to clean the carb. First, I have added carb cleaner to the gas. I'll give that a chance. Getting the carb out is going to be a project. So much plastic, so much iron, so many rusted bolts to get at before getting any access to that carb. Surely there is a better way to build these machines for access to the mechanicals.

I'm talking about a long hill maybe a half mile and about 40 degree angle. The first 70 yards or so don't seem to bother it, then it starts acting like it's starved for gas, but pumping the throttle just makes it worse. If I idle down to about 3kph it will keep going, barely. As soon as the hill goes to about 20 or 25 degree slope, it starts improving. Short hills, no matter how steep don't phase it. My fuel pump is working when I take the fuel line off and test it. (I do have a new one I might try). The plug is burning rich, but no buildup. I'm also working with a full gas tank, the air lines to carb, and fuel tank are clear as is the breather line from the carb that hangs over the air filter housing. I'm operating in the same climate and altitude as I have been for the last 4 years.

I don't have any lack of power on short hills, but when I get a long uphill road the ATV will slow way down to about 30KPH. If I work the throttle to give it more gas it just gets worse. Then if I let up on the throttle it runs better, but of course slows down even more. Am I looking at a carb problem, or what? I tried getting at the air screw, but can barely get a screwdriver in it and then can't adjust...won't turn at all. I cannot find a fuel adjustment screw anywhere I can see on the carb, and the manual does not show one. My plug is burning black, wouldn't that be too much fuel, and how do I correct that? It may be that the engine is flooding when I go uphill and throttle up.

Just a safety sticker on the end, a sticker on top saying "Warn, made for Arctic Cat". I'll have to remove the winch. I'll get back to you. Well, before I got that far, I decided to jump 12v to the winch posts. Now, my battery is apparently dead and won't take a charge. I don't see how a perfectly good battery could have been effected. The pull start works, but even after running for 20 minutes I can't even blow my horn very well and the lcd display gets all scrambled when pulling on the hand brake lever or blowing the horn, etc. So it's either not holding a charge or the charging system isn't working. I will get the battery tested and see.

:huh:I left my Cat sit for several months while I visited the "States" for summer in WI. Battery had been removed. When I got back here to Panama and on the road again, I occasioned to find that the winch was non-responsive. Now, we have quite a bit of humidity here during the rainy season (it was doubly covered with tarps) and I'm guessing corrosion of contacts or wires. I've cleaned all the connections, except the rocker switch and solenoid are sealed. No luck. Shouldn't I be able to run 12v directly to either the large diameter blue or yellow wire on the winch and see if the winch itself works? I got spark, but no function. 2nd question: I have an 8 post solenoid and I know the part # is 0409-066 and it is a Warn winch made for Arctic cat, but, I cannot find a model number on the winch so I can look up a wiring diagram. Can anyone possibly tell me which model winch I likely have? 2005 500LE automatic Arctic Cat. Or which winches use the 8 post solenoid? I have not been able to find any diagram of Warn winches that use an 8 post solenoid (lots of winch diagrams are available).

Arctic Cat 2005 500LE automatic. My fuel pump recently started making a "ting, ting, ting" sound. Is it going to fail? The machine runs just fine, but I would hate to get stuck out in the boondocks when this quits.

I found the source of the "ting, ting, ting". It's the fuel pump. It just started doing that after I blew "lung pressure" air through the 3 lines connected to the fuel pump. However, I did not blow air into the fuel pump. What's up with that? Is this pump dying? I'd hate to be half way up a hill when it did.

I need the rack space too, and the streams here in Panama are not very deep, so I didn't need the snorkels. I did find a half dozen jets in the package left with me by the former owner, so I suspect he did change the jets. I checked into trying to put the original air filter back in, but whoa, you have to take the whole rack, bumper, winch, and plastic off to do that. So no way. Now...I figured out the perfect solution. I re-routed the snorkels, under the plastic shroud, next to the headlights. Perfect. They're not in the way, still high enough should I encounter 3 feet of water (not going to happen), and it runs superbly. Even can accelerate going up steep hills. I feel like it can leap tall buildings too. Thanks for your input, I learned something too about jets. Now, I have something else...I noticed it a couple of days ago. There is an engine noise I didn't hear before. While the engine is running there is a "ting, ting, ting" sound, almost like a lifter or tappet, but higher pitched. Anyone have any idea? Edit/Delete Message