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haha.. I'm not a mechanic that remembers model specific details.. I keep finding that a name in one year, or market, can mean something different elsewhere or in another year. You know what I'd say though.. manual transmission, suspension/drive as simple as your riding will tolerate, carby... japanese. Red is good.

Well finally some good news. Pulled the stator roter off and sure enough it had a sheared key, replaced the key and it started up. That brought to light another issue. It would start easy the just die for no reason, I suspected it may be the carburetor even though it's been replaced I did have to evict a mud dobber nest that had made a home in the fuel inlet because the fuel line was disconnected when I got it. Well I've been searching for other reasons why it would die suddenly, just about ready to dive into the carburetor when I decided to look into why the aftermarket led flood lights were dim. I found a bad or non existant ground between the engine and frame. I ran a new ground wire from battery negative to the frame the started it up and it sat and idled for a good 15 minutes and did not die. Now when the new drive belt comes in maybe I can actually test drive it. Still a few other things to look at but it's coming along.

You can test the internal workings of an aftermarket switch with a multimeter. Use the continuity buzzer to figure which wires are connected by which switch/button. Then use that knowledge to match the new switch up to the wiring diagram's switch schematic.. That's the box diagram of each switch showing what's contacted by bars when it's on or off. If you do dismantle a switch be very careful not to loose the tiny springs or balls from inside it.

Sorry my input wasnt very helpful, but glad you found one.

I looked in two manuals and they bopth say 17mm +- 2mm, measured with the carb body tilted so the float is just shutting the jet off(check by blowing into the fuel fitting), and measured from the body to the highest point on the float. You can also check the fuel height with a clear plastic hose attached to the drain fitting on the bottom of the bowl. You open the drain and hold the hose up alongside the carb body and the hose fills to the level of the fuel. The fuel level should be 0.5 +- 1mm ABOVE the carb body to bowl join.

Ha.. That could do it alright.. So now the two black wires allow the start button to work you just need to figure why the neutral circuit isn't doing what it should. The power must be getting through the switches for it to be powering the start solenoid, so either the neutral switch or wire is crook. I'd disconnect the neutral switch and short the bike's switch wire to earth as my next test.

Cripes…starter solenoid was hooked up backwards. Fixed that and now it seems to be working when jumping the black wires. Neutral switch and relay may be bad, but I think I can get it from here. Thanks all!

I confirmed the tank breather hoses were attached correctly and clear and then realized I swapped the bottom gas inlet hose and the upper breather hose. After I reconfigured the quad is running like new. However I did discover that gas leaked into the oil. New oil and filter in order. Thank you Mech!

Compression is good but it has no spark so I'm pretty sure that's going to be the direction to look. I'm a former auto mechanic and current industrial machine repairer so I'm pretty good at mechanical problems. I have narrowed it down to most likely the ignition pickup / stator which has a replacement on order

You almost certainly have too much fuel pressure. I'd try to keep the original gear.. The fuel pump and the carb were made to operate together. Gravity fed carbs have bigger float needle jets than carbs with pumps. You should set the carb float to specs if it's a carb recommended for that bike (bikes with tilted carbs have different float settings than flat mounted carbs), or to a setting that will have the fuel at the right height if it is tilted, and then try running it with a temporary gravity feed.

I would probably check the pickup coil for proper resistance and that it is putting out voltage first, the value should be listed in your repair manual. If you dont have a manual you should try to get one. Is your new CDI aftermarket, sometimes they dont work right out of the box, if the original CDI is OEM dont throw it away until you are sure thats the problem.

If it was 20 years old i would say you could have something going on with the belt and shieve but this is brand new you should not have problems with anything. It is very possible that the dirt and sand you ran through may have affected the electronic lockup to go into 4 wheel drive, but it shouldnt have. Im not that familiar with these very rarely work on new ones. I think i would contact the dealer.

Its hard to Judge whats really going on. Not all chinese carbs are built the same and not being familiar with the one you have is difficult. I set the float level as the factory setting suggests which means the float is parallel with the float chamber lip. Then adjust it out from there with the air fuel mixture screw..The only time i vary that adjustment is if gas is still overflowing from the float chamber which theoretically shouldnt happen unless there is a discrepancy in the needle and seat. If you bought this carb new i am assuming it is right one for your quad. If not i would not spend much time on a aftermarket carb. The cheapest solution would be to get another aftermarket carb, my expierience is some work great but most dont. If i was doing it and wanted it up and running quickly i would try the cheapest solution, but continue to look for an OEM carb to rebuild and get it back to factoruy specs with oem jets and needles.