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Didn't see the vid of the bottom end. Slow internet so I'll try again later. Getting the engine out isn't so bad. Once the body work's off you take out the left rear suspension and wheel and all in one piece, then undo a frame member and gear shift, and the engine slides out to the left. Getting it back in you have to line up the right rear drive shaft but that's simple. That rod, if it moves four mills it's probably ok, but six mm would be too much . Six mm is 1/4". The most play, and any roughness, will be when the crank's about twenty degrees past top dead center.. If you tip the rod back it will be about right. If you check for endwards movement of the rod there, you shouldn't feel any..haha. It shouldn't rock more than about 4mm, and if you push and rock the rod on it's bearing it should feel smooth.. Cranks aren't too hard to do if you have a workshop with a press or good pullers. My sons used to do their own cranks when they were twelve and fourteen.. maybe even earlier. They did lots and they never had any problems. I've done lots. I've never had a problem. If I was doubtful about it's being worth doing, I'd probably fit a top end/fix it, and have a listen to how it sounds, then pull it out and apart if I had to. Just saying.. It's old as you say. The manual will tell you how much rod movement they think there should be. My 4mm is just a rough figure.

Does the clutch slip if it's cold and you are going up hill ? If the plate(adjustable) clutch is slipping ever, whether hot or cold, it should slip more under power than it will when it's only providing engine braking.. Engine power is far greater than engine braking and should cause slippage going up hill.. And yes if you have too much oil or the wrong grade oil it can cause slipping clutches, and dragging clutches too.