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Showing content with the highest reputation on 11/02/2024 in all areas

  1. Hello, been lurking for a while fixing some of my problems after reading others unfortunate issues. However I can’t find the answers I need. Back story I have a 03 Kodiak 450. A coworker was going to take it to the dump, he said it wouldn’t run. Some mice got in there while it was stored for a few years and chewed up the wire harness. All the wheels were locked up and he didnt want to mess with it. Not knowing if it would run, for a week or so I spliced most of the wires back together. Replaced all the brake calipers and rear brake cable and rebuilt the carb. So far I have put 30ish miles on the bike and seems to run decently. Now my questions. When I put it in gear and the display light showed it is in gear I have to bump the throttle to make it actually go into drive or reverse. It doesn’t slam In gear but kind acts if you let the clutch out to fast on a manual. Is that normal, seems it’s thinking about going In gear then it goes after tapping the throttle. 2nd question, when I use the diff. Lock it acts like it is in a limp mode just by accelerating the lest little bit. It starts to sputter and won’t allow it to have any power. It only does this with the diff lock on. 3rd. The display is stuck on KMH. How do I change it to MPH. I followed all the steps I saw on YouTube with no luck. When I got power to the display it was in MPH but it switched its self and now I can’t get it back. Next are the rear u-joint the same as the front u-joints. I have sprung a oil leak from the rear diff at the drive shaft and need to replace the seal. Sorry for the long post and thanks in advance for any help. I’m sure I will find more things in the future.
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  2. Here's the service manual:
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  3. I voted early also, don't want the lines on Tuesday. Was just looking at my news feed...the days of opponents parking their cars close to one another is over, these two are walking by each other's planes...🤣
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  4. You should get the owners manual and read that because the diff lock might be a safety feature, or a safety feature playing up, but it might have some clue. Check the brake switches, too, those interfere with running if they are playing up. Could be the two are interconnected with some safety feature.. It might be that you are only meant to operate diff lock at very low speed or gear too.. The not shifting into gear straight away sounds like low idle and no drag in the centrifugal clutch to make the gear's revolve slowly which normally let them align and slip in when you move the lever. If they go into gear if you rock the bike back and forwards a little after you've moved the lever, then it's doing the same thing, rotating gear shafts. If that works then I wouldn't worry about it. Check the idle speed. The owners manual will probably tell you how to set the speedo's language etc.
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  5. If the diff lock is sputtering more the more throttle you give it , it does sound like an electrical contact problem maybe a safety switch i would have to pull up a schematic to see, but for starters i would check all the electrical connectors associated with the diff lock and i will look and see if i can find a manual and take a look.
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  6. Thanks. I was wondering if the idle is a bit low. I don’t have anything to compare it to. I will turn it up a bit and see what happens. With the diff lock the more throttle I give it the more it sputters as if it’s in a safety mode or something like that.
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  7. Most of the things you describe could be related to a low idle speed. You might try increasing the idle speed and see if anything changes. The diff lock takes more power from the engine, but it should not sputter, hard to diagnose without seeing exactly what is happening, does it get better when you increase engine speed. There could also be something in the diff lock that is not engaging correctly. There are cables that operate these things that might need to be adjusted. As far as the MPH and KPH there may still be something in the wiring that you put back together that is not exactly right. You might try killing the power to the display then power it back up and see if it reverts back to MPH. Like i said hard to diagnose with actually being there but these are the things i would check.
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