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Has it been running fine and just quit or is it new to you or have you seen it run before.

Well.. Thanks to all for the help. It's too late to cancel the rear seals and bearings, but "All Balls" parts have previously been of decent quality. I'll print this out, and hit up the Suzuki Dealership, and get the bits I need to get it done. As far as it goes, I'm a half decent mechanic, at least when it comes to cars, and small engines. The quad world, however, is new territory for me. I should be able to get it done, without completely 'effin it up.. I'll keep you all posted.. That being said, it'd be nice if the max file size thingy could be reset.. I'm down to 18.48 MB.. That's only about 6 3 MB pictures..

If you've done universal joints before, the following, from an earlier thread, might make sense. If you haven't done universals before I can describe the steps in more detail. "The universal is a bit of a bugger to do because you need to dismantle it in place, then put it together in place again as well.. unless you have a special dealer tool to undo the bolt to take the shaft away from the gearbox. The good news is that the universal joint is an excellent design and as far as universal joints go, it's almost foolproof. Most uj you need to be very careful as you put the cups into the yoke and onto the cross because it's really easy to dislodge a needle roller. On these crosses you can slip the cup into the yoke and onto the cross without having to press the cup far in, and then the other side cup goes in and onto the cross before it has a chance to drop a needle.. If you've done a car universal you will know the normal problem that requires you to press the cup a long way in till the cross is poking out the other side, then get the cup on the second side and press the whole lot back to the centre of the yoke. You don't have to do that with these ujs. The hardest part is getting the circlips on and off. The cups also seem to slip most of the way into the yoke too before you have to start tapping or using a g-clamp on it. They look daunting, but are a lot easier than it looks.. If you've done a uj before you should have no trouble.".

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Yup. If you are in the country then find a good tree and gets some big blocks of wood. Chain the bike to the tree carefully, on blocks so it's real solid if you are going to twist it, then use something to bend the whole frame or just the tube you want bent., a big lever/beam of wood, chain-block, fence strainer even would probably move it. The slow pull of a chainblock or fence strainer is best. Use lengths of timber as straight edges and to measure from to check things.. Once you'd figured how you are going to chain and block it and apply the force where you want it, then it's only a couple of hours work. You might need to put a short length of plank inside the frame somewhere to pull on or for the chain, so the pressure is spread out. Wherever you apply pressure it needs to be spread over at least the length of the pipe/tube you are bending, but in this case with a twist or bend that's not obvious try to apply pressure so it's pressing on the frame top and bottom, or perhaps left and right, rather than pulling on one point. It will move easily with a small chain-block. I'd take the wheels off on a flat floor and make measurements off the floor and straight-edges to work out what direction and where the bend needed to be, then i'd figure out how I was going to chain and bend it, then put the wheels on and drive it to the tree. I'd spend a couple of days figuring how and what I was going to do till I had it all clear in my mind, and was confident it would bend as I needed. At the tree and as it gets bent you'll have to use straight-edges and looking across tubes that are supposed to be parallel, checking that when viewed so they appear with a small gap between them, they do look parallel.

Another thought, you might find another quad that needs work cheaper than a frame, when i was looking on ebay they wanted more for a frame than i paid for my whole Big Bear, but i did have to rewire it and do a few other things. Straitening it would be the cheapest option. My philosophy is if it can be bent it can be bent back.