Leaderboard

I found this one, a reasonable price with hoses but missing lid. It says its for an 86, the one i found for the 90 had no hoses and was twice the price, just like i figured the hoses go for more than the box. You might look at this one closely to see if you think it might fit. https://www.ebay.com/itm/375407594848?fits=Model%3AMoto+4|Make%3AYamaha&epid=1023342462&itmmeta=01HZDTDY6PQ3KRHX1QBRZWK88Q&hash=item5768094d60:g:lqYAAOSw99RmM4Mw&itmprp=enc%3AAQAJAAAA8J0kdh8qy9CaqVnttvtJIskH3hYQAn%2BQHPel87EsVYtacqzTaRnr5PFIyvRLn1lwACxcFqaAV09FHv%2Fv--gtT26bXgy3Tk5ivDJF1PptuEyrjY9yL%2BVKvnh%2Bv2WYRCuMpltKwRn6X5BTV5mv8nmhG3C0X%2BUgPqmIBTGztyjzVCqFdKcLTY4ABZHXa%2B7bRGVXjWFQAE2EGvdXggNS2Wb9LzxthACB6EeYZKX0yuNicg2YhpkvxcN13fum81E%2BNvhw9chyHeOCQu1%2FogRmGu2geqyB2iPj048B1fSAupHejXILgp%2Bhp9i9rOWS5TTTmAqn4Q%3D%3D|tkp%3ABk9SR8jjt7r7Yw

Good work Rancher.

According to parzilla this is the correct one for 1990 350 Moto 4 it has 2 hose connections, so you would do better to find one on Ebay that comes with hoses.

Good work! Excellent you figured it out this far, not sure if the air box will work on the Moto4, you can go to Partzilla and reference the part # to see if it will fit yours, it says its for the Wolverine in your age group and if it fits all those different models it may work. A little pricy but OEM one is discontinued. You might look on Ebay for a used one that may come with all the hoses you need to connect it.The amazon one dosent come with the hose and believe me they are just as proud of those hoses.

Ok, I don't have a video to post yet because I made a progress / question / frustration video then, in getting that out, ah freedom of speech *pause* talking about the PO etc. The realization occured, that - if you look at my prior video you'll see it: there are two engine start/stop controls. The original Yamaha one, and one taken off a later model motorcycle or ATV, mounted on the same side of the handlebar, adjacent. It's that second one which runs underneath the tank, and did not have any matching color codes, nor was it connected to the harness. That's the one they cut into, and added crazy ROMEX to instead of proper low voltage stranded wire, then used it's START push switch, to directly electrically bridge the terminals on the starter relay (solenoid), completely bypassing the function of the solenoid, and only using it's terminals exclusively as you would use 2 isolation lugs. Like shoving a screwdriver across them every time you start the engine. The CDI is on the forward-facing side of the battery tray, in the back, near the left-rear tire, and just underneath the CDI is where the starter solenoid is supposed to go. That's those blue and black wires from the harness, that do have a connector, that connects to a mating connector terminating in stripped wires. The new start solenoid will have it's own pigtail that will plug right into the existing harness. I'll have to look around for the retainer strap to hold the solenoid on. The tabs are there. I completely tested, then disassembled the original START - STOP - HEADLIGHT assembly. The START button did not work. Somewhere in the wires before the harness, the two brown wires are combined. So if you run a continuity probe between the brown on the 4-pin terminal to the red w/white on the 3-pin, and push START, you should get continuity if the START button works. Gently disassemble everything, and on the START button, use a dental pick to get underneath the bottom of the white switch body, and then you should be able to depress the START button and it will shift back then free. Feed yourself some of the cable through the grommet. This will give you room to disassemble the START switch and clean the contacts. Cleaning the contacts provides some conductivity, but the travel was too far and the connection was so-so. Use a 50-watt soldering iron and silver doped solder, and non-corrosive flux, flux the button on the back tab of the START button contact. Apply a little solder to your iron, then touch the button briefly until you have a nice round bead covering the whole face of the contact. Use a fine file and flatten the surface down some to around 1/2mm. You need to do this because too much of a nice round projection of solder, will not give enough travel for the button. Reassemble. The START button now works every time, and travel is about half of what it was. Properly assembled, current across the START button contacts should only be enough to fire a small relay, the starter solenoid. While you have the switch assembly apart, add silicone grease to the light switch contacts and mechanism, and the ENGINE STOP slide switch. I've completely removed the second START switch assembly, but may reuse it at a later time for a horn. Unless someone knows of an ATV turn signal kit they'd recommend, the switch to mount to the handlebar.