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Airbox hose on, needle set right, go for a drive. And remember, nice and slow up to the slope so the float bowl is full, then count the seconds till it falters at 1/2 throttle.. If we need to work on the No6 tube or the pump we will look at that next. I'll tell you how to test the pump.

And 97.. to elliminate the fuel pump being the problem.. when you go for this test ride, approach the slope slowly, then accelerate and see if it starts off going ok, but then starts to loose power after a few seconds, like ten or more seconds. That should have the float bowl full at the bottom of the slope, and if it falters straight away under the load it's the mixture, but if it goes for that few seconds then starts to falter, it's probably because the fuel level is falling in the bowl.. That will mean bad pump or filter in the tap or bad tap.

I have wondered that same thing about carb kits, i bought a more expensive kits to rebuild mine that had good ratings, because i didnt know anything about the carb, both ebay carbs, wheather it had already had a cheap kit put in it, i guess the only way to know for sure on an old used bike is to but new suzuki jets and needle. Unless i can figure out a way to tell if i have original suzuki jets. Still working on that. Yours may not be original either, how do you know.

No, that version just has some plastic spacers and perhaps a metal one, all fitted onto the needle. The needle holds the needle from jumping around once the cap is screwed down. Ok.. Well that's what I've been trying to find out for days.. haha.. It's almost certain to be a lean mixture. And the further you open the throttle the worse the back-firing and the slower, or more gutless it gets right ? So put the airbox hose back on, set that needle clip to the middle position and go see if it improves. I don't suppose by any chance you happened to take note of what the jet sizes were when you had it apart did you.. so I can check in the book what it's meant to be.. Only the main jet is all we need..

From 1/4 up the fuel is being metered by the slide needle, which is easily accessed, So I'd take the top off and raise the needle a notch as my first step.

I've only heard of limp mode in EFI.. It will need a computer of some sort to have a limp mode..

They are worth restoring should you take a notion to. I always say it's the most fun you'll ever have at 1 mph lol Super low 1st and 2nd are lower than 1st gear low. I think 3rd gear SL is the same as 1st gear low. It will pull my truck with the hubs locked in 4x4 and truck manual transmission in 2nd. It turns the truck engine over. It won't pull it in 1st gear though. It just digs 4 holes. Super low is really nice. It's fun putting through the woods off the trail, crawling over logs real slow and not worrying about jostling stuff off the racks. It's handy for backing a loaded trailer real slow. And I can shift ranges on the fly. So from 2nd SL I just shift into low and it feels pretty natural. From there I can either shift into 3rd or shift into high if I don't want to use my foot. The only thing I wish it had is reverse from any gear like the yamaha warrior. Too often I'm in 3rd or 4th SL and it's a long way to find neutral to engage reverse. But I wouldn't trade it for anything. If someone came over with a Can-am 1000 wanting to trade I'd send them away. I could always save up to buy a can-am but I don't want to go through all the work again to build another king.

Detonation is just that. The fuel mixture exploding in the cylinder instead of a rapid (VERY RAPID) burning in the cylinder. It can be caused by ignition too far advanced or by use of fuel too low a grade for the compression ratio / cylinder pressures. When everything is right, the fuel actually burns rapidly as the piston descends on the power stroke. When detonation because of over advance causing cylinder pressure to increase far over normal or fuel grade is too low the fuel instantly burns (detonates) rather than burning continuously during the power stroke. The rattling noises you hear with many diesels when idling are actually mini- detonations with the high compression and very lean diesel mixture.

Thanks Randy , i really enjoyed watching the video, it has all the bells and whistles and the controls are so convienient, and mechanical A+, with diff lock and super low gear is handy. Dont see those in my area very much and when you do they are really abused and trashed, even worse than the Eiger i got.

On most bikes that pull start pulley fits onto a tiny spline.. I think I'd pull that part off and check the end of the crank before I chased up a part, and I'd check the starter gears too. Some of those cheap bikes are so badly made they break kick start shafts, and gearbox shafts, and just about any part that we would normally expect to last the bike out.. Once you had that part off, you could go to a bike wreckers if there is one around and ask if they recognise it.. Might be a copy of something.

Good to know that, thanks for the info Randy

I'd try to find the maker, which may be mentioned on a model tag on the frame somewhere, then do a search for info.. It may use some common chinese engine, possibly a copy of a jap engine. Can't find a parts picture or complete list. If you can find a vin or model id plate, take a photo and post it up..

Yeah it's a bit hard to tell for sure but they all do that, and two strokes do it heaps.. with or without the piston backwards. I had been under the impression he was saying it backfired into the carb, which it well could do under load..

Knocking noise was most likely detonation from the over advanced condition as Mech mentioned.

In a big bear those colours go to the cdi, so I'd assume it was firing a hell of an advanced.. Good work spotting it.

97 I have not really commented on this very much, you guys are covering it quite well, i watched your video numerous times and it seems around 5000 rpm is when your bogging starts, at this point there is an exceessive amount of gas being blown out of the carb, so is this a lean or a rich condition, im not sure, but either one it should not be blowing gas toward the air box, so 2 thoughts come to mind, is the spark advance working correctly to keep up with the added RPMs which im assuming is controlled by the CDI, im assuming because i have never worked on a king quad, the engine sounds very good for an old engine nice and tight, not to throw another pebble in an already rippled pond, but the only time i have ever seen this happen was on a 2 stroke, the piston was installed backwards, there is an arrow pointing to exhaust on the piston, dont know if yours has ever been rebuilt but just a thought.