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Setting them to spec is only important for getting all your cam duration. When I had a bad valve I'd have to stop on the side of the trail and back the screw out a turn then get going again. I made the gap huge so I didn't have to do it again for a while. It ran fine with only small loses in power in the upper rpms. I pulled many loads of dirt like that until I got time to tear it apart and replace the valve. But if you're sure you have a gap now and that didn't fix the problem then something else is wrong. Yep it's a fun quad and I wouldn't trade mine for anything.

You don't need feeler gauges to set the tappets 97, and it's best not to use them. Valves get a pit in the end where the rocker presses and the feelers span the pit and give a wrong reading. You can do it by ear and feel, or by winding the screw in till it touches and then out by the amount that will give the correct clearance.

Koken sockets are the best quality for the money.. I've been overhauling jap bike engines since 1973 Randy, and done dozens of them, as a profession. I've seen plenty of damage.

I don't think cheap parts are cheap for no reason, and even if they make them out of jap spec aluminium casting material(which is a standard), they can vary greatly and have different characteristics after a run. The spec for casting aluminium are loose enough to give a bit of leeway about it's exact composition, and some of it gets harder after being normally hot, and some gets softer after being normally hot, and some that gets soft after normal use gets harder after an overheat, and some that normally toughens after normal running gets soft after an overheat. It also varies in it's expansion rates. Then there are differences with cycling of heat, some responds well to heat cycling, and some does not.. The jap manufacturers are very particular about what exact composition their casting aluminum is, and we pay for their expertise.

I would adjust the oil to seasons yes if real hot ,ask local mechanics in your area,I would ask a good shade tree mechanic because they would definitely know more than most dealers and for the most part was sent to school for a particular bike and not all bikes are particularly the same even two of the same make and model something will be different,just get out there and get grease on your hands and never give up. Like that old school house rock cartoons, knowledge is power. Have fun

Put tyre slime in them... It fixes slow leaks and prevents new ones. If it is the beads leaking you'll need to pull the wheels and lay them on the side to get the slime there, but if it's prickles in the tryes just riding it will seal them.. I love the stuff. I put it in as a preventative. Haha.. I'm a mech Gw.. we never do anything to our machines unless we have to..

Yes ,and welcome,10/40 is about the middle of oil viscosity for ATVs, mostly oil numbers are related to hot or cold seasons cold weather you want thinner hot you want thicker but not to thick never go thicker than specs ,some newer bikes take 10/30 ,10/40,even I've seen 10/50 just remember the first number is when the machine starts as it runs the second number is the thickness of oil on internals. Hope this gives you a little insite. Have fun and get greasy.