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You my boy davefrombc. That's exactly what I was hoping to hear. I appreciate it. Thank you.

As far as oil is concerned, you likely can't go wrong with a 10w40 (MA in the specifications) suitable for motorcycles in the engine and a 75-90 hypoid oil in the differentials. According to other forums on engine oils avoid the "Energy conserving" oils. They have friction reducing additives that can screw up wet clutches.

According to a post in another site : Try looking on the upper frame tube on the rear left side under the wheel well. As Frank says .. There's one somewhere on the frame. Try looking for a number on the motor too. It might be possible to id it from that .

Bring the piston up to TDC on compression. Watch the valves as you do it. When it is TDC compression, both valves will be closed. If you take the spark plug out you should be able to see into the cylinder to confirm when the piston is at the top. If you can't see the piston , you can use a dowel or even a pencil to feel for the piston reaching the top.. Be sure to turn the motor over slowly by hand. You don't want to break off the dowel or pencil in the cylinder.When you see (or feel) the piston at TDC then you can look to see what line most closely lines up with whatever indicator there may be. The piston doesn't have to be exactly at TDC to set the valves , but it must be close enough that both valves are closed, and not beginning to open ... There are a few degrees rotation after the intake valves have closed and before the exhaust valves begin to open.