ATV Help & Brand Specific Topics

As long as you leave the engine running and stop winching if the winch starts to get slow it should work, but if you do it often, or let the winch struggle going slow, you may overwork the charging windings and make them too hot so the varnish melts and they burn out. Drawing a lot of power out of the charging windings, for prolong periods of time, isn't good for them. Short winches and keeping the battery well charged should be ok though.

The genuine carbs are generally better tuned. If we have to use a aftermarket they can be tuned to a degree, but if we need to change jets then it gets tricky because we have to make changes in steps and sometimes swap two components at the same time etc, and sometimes the threads on the jets are not the same threads as the original carb used. You could try moving the slide needle in it's clip. They are generally easy to get at without removing the carb. Move the clip one notch and if it makes it better, move it another in the same direction, keep going if it has more grooves till it's been moved too far, then go back one groove. If the first step makes it run worse, then you move the clip two grooves in the other direction, and then keep trying one more step till it's gone too far, then back one step. If you compere the slide needles(original and replacement) you may find they are a lot different. Sometimes, if the two discharge/emulsifier tubes are both the same, we can change the needles, then adjust them, and cure the problem.

I had a quick look at some parts diagrams and it doesn't appear to have a clutch. The three models I looked at were all belt drive. I also have the 2008 750 manual so looked in there and it looked like the same engine/trans setup, and it has no clutch. It seems the belt and pulleys are the only "clutch".. I would suspect that the variable ratio system of the belt drive is playing up. That's the variable width belt pulleys I'm talking about. One of them is possibly moving apart at too lower revs, or one of them isn't moving apart when it should. He should get a manual. They can be downloaded for free, from right here in quadcrazy quite likely..

I would try a clutch adjustment centrifical clutch is probably worn a little.

Mikuni cabs are rathar expensive i saw one on ebay 349.00 for a rusted corroded ugly carb, thats just crazy, i would keep looking on ebay if you can get one close to 100 and rebuild it thats what i generally do. I would do what you did make an extension for the hitch if you bolt it tight i dont really understand why it drags the ground . Been a long time since i have seen a timberwolfe so i dont remember how ridgid the towing hitch is. I do know some of those hitches are rathar low to the ground i have also mounted a 1 1/4 reciever hitch to ATVs to get clearance, a real trailer hitch would not go on a ball once mounted so i had to extend it not permanant because i wanted to remove it later.

I'm trying to help a buddy out with his bike (he's not really on the internet or familiar with these forums) and I'll admit that I am not super familiar with the transmission and clutches in these bikes. I owned a Brute a few years ago, but never had an issue like this that I had to troubleshoot. So basically my buddy bought a group lot of 650's to build one good bike out of. He got it all put together and has it running but when he pushes on the throttle the clutch doesn't engage till the RPM's are quite high and even when its moving it doesn't really speed up, almost seems like its in "limp mode". He's tried 2 different transmissions so I don't think that's the problem. Is there any adjustment on the clutch engagement? Anything else I can tell him to look at? Let me know if you need anymore information if you think you can help.

1st problem, Does anyone know where I can find a stock carb for my Timberwolf, I have tried two different aftermarket carbs and they both suck. The machine runs great until it gets good and warm, then it keeps stalling unless I feather the throttle. it will even stall while I'm trying to go from 1st to reverse or vise versa. I took it to a buddy of mine who is a bike mechanic for years, and he told me try to find a factory carb. When I look online from dealers it says "NOT AVAILABLE" anyone have any suggestions ? 2nd, The small tab on the rear axle for towing is to short for even pulling my small yard trailer, I can't even turn a little bit and hit hits. I tried making an extension which worked great as far as length, but it bends the tab and then the extension drags the ground. I have an idea of what to do to fix it, but wanted to see if anyone else has had this problem and see how you solved it.

Thank you. I'm using a small ATV winch that came from HF that I have laying around, figured I should put it to use.

No problem at all. Depending on what size winch you get, larger uses more battery power, but its not on all the time so battery gets charged back up after you use it. I would probably go for a small one 2500 or 3500, Timberwolfe is not that heavy.

I have a Yamaha Timberwolf 4x4 250. I want to put a winch on it, but just wondering if the charging system will handle it or not ? Has anyone added one to their machine and have you had any issues?

CDI is probably not the issue, i would check for correct resistance at the main coil and also pickup coil, which is attached to the stator. Also check to make sure you have a good ground at the main coil and CDI . You can also check to see if the pickup coil is putting out voltage, i usually do it with an anologue meter with a needle seems to be more sensitive to small voltage spikes, you can see the needle move , you have to look close or you will miss it, very quick.

A new thread makes it easier to follow.... Does it backfire ? Is it out of the carb or the exhaust ? Are you certain it's the mid range that's causing it, or could it perhaps be that it's when the load starts coming onto the engine that it starts to misfire ? In which case it's more likely to be a coil or lead, cap or sparkplug. The way to check if it's throttle position, or engine load, is to go up and then down a slope/hill. Start a new thread though.. Otherwise it's too easy to confuse bikes or owners or problems..

Same exact issues with 02 yamaha big bear. Replaced with new carb. Same issue, bogging down when throttled past mid range. Bought another new carb, replaced again. Same issue. Good gas, jets all correct, screens clean, fuel lines clean, good gas, new battery, new plug, filters etc…Not sure about the CDI, but how about replacing the stator?Thoughts?

I did'nt know an exhaust leak could cause backfires, thanks for the tip!

Nice job. Man those tires look mean!

WOW not what I'd want to find!

Good work. I like that you cleaned and inspected the drive system and didn't just condemn it out of hand, and then you got it working. Even if it does need a bit of work after a while it lets you test everything else. It's important we use our discretion when choosing what needs replacing. That's good work..

Well after driving it around a bit and having to replace a stuck thermostat it seems to be running well and has good power I have noticed gear oil coming from the front diff pinion seal area so I guess I'll be exploring that issue sooner than later.

When a carb starts backfiring it's normally because the mixture is too lean. It can be caused by badly retarded ignition timing or tight valve clearance, but mostly it's a lean mixture, especially if it does it more as you open the throttle more. The flooding out the overflow is a different problem..

Well the circumstances should be considered here.. It takes about 20 minutes before the trouble starts manifesting.. A blocked fuel tank breather could cause problems like that. A blocked vent normally causes a fuel shortage as the tank starts to get a vacuum in it and the fuel stops flowing. It can happen though that a blocked vent can cause the carb to flood, but it's normally when the bike gets parked in the sun and the tank pressurises. It is possible though that in this case a blocked vent, despite the fuel being taken out of the tank as the engine runs, is actually letting the tank pressurise as the engine or sun warms the tank up. Check the fuel tank and the carb breather hoses are attached to the right place, and that they are clear.

I've since switched to another carb,I've read online a lot of people switched to smaller carbs due to flooding issues. This worked for me . Switched from the original vm34 to a vm32 from my 85 2wd bike. It was running perfectly, UNTIL, get this : Bike runs for 15mins or so till it gets hot. Then it backfires a bit and makes popping noises through the carb. Then it spitters and cuts out like it don't wanna run . Let it sit for a bit to cool down then starts back up like nothing happened. don't know if this is a fuel pump issue or some sort of electrical or mechanical issue? Man I thought I finally had this bike ready to take on a run. Guess not

it is the coil. Had this happen to me and had a second unit to swap parts. Did everything except for the coil as you need to drain the oil to replace it. If I remember correctly,the coil sent that much.

Thanks for the update! Good work! Glad it s running and driving. Always glad to hear a project getting back on the road.

New belt installed and also did a 25 year overdue service on the primary drive, it was really nasty and corroded. It's working good now. Took it out of the shop yesterday and did some riding around the yard and it seems to be running well. I did track down another electrical issue that I'll take care of this evening. It would lose power to the main switch intermittently and I finally traced that to a terminal in the connector that plugs into the starter solenoid. I'm also going to flush the cooling system and install some antifreeze

Yeah could be that Ww. If the carb's just been off then, yup, the rubber could be split. Good idea. Most of the time though, bad vacuum effects the idle more than it does an engine at revs. If they will start and idle, (even with a vacuum leak), then they will generally rev up and run pretty much as normal. There are exceptions though, such as the carb moving in the rubber, or the rubber flexing and letting air in.