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By DPDISXR4Ti
I hadn't driven my Kodiak for a two months, and since it was low on fuel, the first thing I did was filled it up to maybe 7/8 full. Getting ready to start it, I rotated the fuel selector switch to "on" and within seconds I smelled and saw fuel dripping onto the floor. I quickly turned it off and the fuel gradually stopped - I can repeat this.
The fuel is flowing from the hose that is connected to the bottom of the carb, and routes around to the left side toward the wheel well. Any idea what's going on here? It ran fine the last time I had it out.
Thanks...
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By jhamrick75
If anyone is having issues with the Mikuni VM24SS carb, I thought I would post what issues I had and how I resolved them.
Acquired a 93 Bayou 220 that had sat for over 4 years.
The carb was extremely corroded and pitted and full of leftover fuel.
Cleaned carb and bowl and was able to get the engine to start.
Within 30 seconds exhaust would heat up and start to glow red hot.
Removed carb and recleaned everything, including a second overnight soak.
Needless to say, after removing the carb for the 5th time and my frustration to the limit I
realized that my attention had been to the carb body and not to the bowl.
There is a small brass rod on the bottom of the carb that goes down into the float bowl but is seperated from the main section. I had cleaned that area very well....I had thought.
***The corrosion had sealed off the channel that runs from the main bowl section to the small tube section on the side of the float bowl. No amount of carb cleaner was going to get it to budge. So i took a small nail and started to scrape away the corrosion and was eventually able to dislodge enought of the corrosion that carb cleaner would flow through that channel. ***
I thoroughly cleaned each side of the channel in the float bowl and reinstalled the carb and now the issue of it running lean is gone.
On a second note the fuel mixture screw was a nightmare to remove as the threads had been corroded and wouldnt let the screw come out. I used a little cutting oil and worked the mixture screw in and out until I was able to push past the corroded threads and completely remove the needle. After a couple passes with a tap to clean the threads it is like new again.
Hope this helps if you are having a lean running machine.
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By jwh
I am new to this site. Now down to business, I have been given a Kawasaki 220, tires are trashed and it has been setting for a long time. Do I need a battery in it to find neutral? I know there is a neutral switch and if I shift down(7 times????) then up one using the neutral switch I should be in Neutral. As you see I am in a learning curve here ......coments welcome.
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By Ejwill
I put a new carb on my trx500fe which I have done before on other models, but this foreman was a real pain, takes forever to get to the carb. Anyway I got the new one installed . I also changed the choke cable while I had it this far. When I turned the gas back gas started running into the air filter box. I did have trouble with the choke cable, it didn’t seem long enough to run where the old one did and the elbow that came with the new carb had more of a 90 on the angle. It didn’t feel like it was binding but I don’t know if the valve was seated on the valve seat. The choke pushed in smooth but who knows what happened in side the valve body. I don’t know if this could be the problem or not I hadn’t run the it just turned the gas back on. Appreciate any help, hint, hint Mech and GW or anybody else. Deer season is over in a little over a week. My power chair won’t make it down those muddy roads. Thanks again.
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By Hagbard
Picked up a barn find that someone had already partially disassembled because the “motor locked up” but they never opened the case. Everything was bagged and labeled, and as I’ve mentioned before- I love a challenge ¯\_(ツ)_/¯
After a couple hours of fun with various pullers and hammers I managed to persuade the magneto/flywheel to come off. Hoo boy what a mess. Then I found an actual rats nest in the clutch cover. ಠ_ಠ
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