Quantcast
Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted

Hey folks,

Im a newbie in them har parts. I gave a friend a junker side by side fridge and he gave me an old junker 89 Yamaha Moto 4. Wasn't a swap, it just worked out that way. I love to tinker, and it has low range and reverse so I thot would make a tractor out of it. I farm; too old to jump and stuff! But it don't run (motors not seized though) So like some people who curl up with a good book thought I would curl up with a good tinker LOL. I am Mario James, hailing from a little rock south of the Florida panhandle called JAMAICA.

I've looked at the stickies and I don't see an manual for my quad. I don't know if any one on this forum might point me in the direction of a service manual for a 1989 Yamaha Moto4 250 cc ATV? Because I intend to farm with it, I wonder if a simple head - sleeve piston change might bump up the displacement to 300cc, or even 350? (YFM motor) Also could anybody tell me if anyone has done a brake conversion to hydraulics at both ends...instead of the cable? (cables don't last long in every day dirt an mud). Also wanna put the clutch under my left hand where it belongs, and do away with the centrifugal setup. Thanks and cheers to everyone!

  • 2 weeks later...
Posted

Leave the semi-auto clutch, it's bulletproof. Displacement - you're pretty much locked in. Brakes? I'm right there with you, cable drums are next to worthless, I've converted all mine to hyd disc front and rear - Ebay has lots of parts that will swap in, most of the yamaha hub/discs will fit the rear splines on your right wheel - I use a big bear front hub/rotor with a honda atv caliper on the rear of my kodiak and the wife's timberwolf, any rear MC will work, mount it to the frame and connect it to your stock pedal. Front brakes I look for something with the same bolt pattern and get the whole hub/disc and mount warrior calipers (they're cheap and dependable), again, any MC will work up there on the bar - wrecked sport bike MCs are cheap with rash on them.

Good luck!

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

  • Similar Forum Topics

    • By BigJohn85344
      Hi! I’m new to the forum. I have several Polaris Trailboss 500’s, which I’m trying to make 2 usable bikes from. One is all but complete, needing only reassembly, while the other two are a decision as to which is parts and which is bike. lol. Anyhow…
    • By kawasig
      Hello All
      I'm kinda new to ATVs. I just bought a 1987 Suzuki quad runner 230 Dual Range. I'm having a problem finding info on it. It's very clean, only 2.800 miles. The front wheels are only 30 in.center to center. I was thinking about adding wheel spacers to give it more stability. I realize the added stress on ball joints and bearings. I'm wondering if there are any other concerns? Any input is greatly appreciated!
    • By Kaz
      Troubleshooting a no spark issue, was running OK, maybe a little rich, turned it off, now no spark. I've checked/ohmed out the main key switch, the start/stop switch, neutral switch, brake switch - all good. It will crank the starter, but no spark with the starter or when I try the pull start. I've checked all fuses and diodes. Swapped battery. New plug. New coil. Swapped in a used CDI - no help. Traced, removed, cleaned, reattached all grounds. Removed things like my winch from the circuits to be sure a bad relay or something was dragging it down. When testing voltages, the orange wire going from the CDI to the ignition coil shows no/very low voltage-shouldn't it have 12V on it? Sometimes I get a very weak, intermittent glow on my spark tester, but not enough to fire the plug. I've checked continuity on just about all wires in the harness. Checked/cleaned/lubed w dielectric grease- all connections, redid a few that looked old/dirty. I've checked the stator resistances, all good, but have a stator and rectifier ordered anyway, will arrive Sunday. I verified that the rectifier has a voltage output back to charge the battery while cranking - 10.5-11V, low, but expected while starter is engaged. What else can I check as part of troubleshooting? I have a Haines service manual, but the 1999 350 4x4 seems to be an odd model, there isn't an exact electrical diagram for it, but found one for another year that has all the same number of wires and same color wires, so I've referenced that. Any hints, tips or advice would be appreciated! Thanks!
    • By KSIM
      View File 2018 CF-MOTO Z-Force CF1000US-2 service manual
      CF-MOTO Z-Force (CF1000US-2) (2018) service manual
      Submitter KSIM Submitted 03/19/2025 Category Other Brands UTV  
    • By fwsamm
      Im aware that this relay needs a positive (+) and a negative (-) to activate the other side. The blue wire is the neutral wire so when in neutral it gets ground. The green wire is from the parking break; when you pull the break in it gets ground (-). however one of those two needs to be neutral so that the positive from kill switch can go to the starter relay. The ground from the starter relay is from the start switch. Which one (neutral or parking break) should have a positive (+) voltage?
×
×
  • Create New...