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Similar Forum Topics
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By marcosphoto
Hi folks, a little disparity brought me to this forum. To set the stage, I'm a 35 auto tech in the industry 37 years now. Licensed motorcycle tech also, 20+ years. I race superbike and motocross. Always done most of my own standard work (outside of specific race machine works) including building my own race bike engines. Now that skills are out of the way, onwards and upwards.
Helping a neighbor with his old quest 500, right front axle seal leak. Well, looks like everything else - right? Wrong! Initially I noticed the CV joint was lacking large lands to place prybars on to pop it out, rather a thin shield like ring very close to the diff seal. Knowing the ring appeared quite delicate, I only pried gently and the CV popped out. However this is where things get weird. Came out only around 7-9mm then hung up again, felt like the clip was catching inside the diff. So spun and pulled, spun and pulled until I was blue in the face but no success getting it out. Also while it was out, I could see that the delicate ring around the outer circumference of the joint was actually the sealing surface where the seal contacts, instead of the norm where the seal rubs inside the diff much deeper and stays cleaner. I've never seen a joint like this, also the service manuals photos which apply to 650 also reflected a standard joint I am accustomed to rather than this one I was fighting with. Rather than break something in the diff, I decided to stop while I was ahead and reassemble the machine before something broke. (The joint would pop in and out of place easy enough, just wouldn't slide out further than 7-9mm). While the joint was a little out and sealing surface exposed, I cleaned the seal and sealing surfaces clean as possible before putting back together. Seems to be holding for now, but eventually I'm sure the leak will come back. Any thoughts as to why that CV joint just refused to come all the way out?
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By DaveswMN
Pulled my '86 Moto4 out of shed where it sat for 20 years. I knew it smoked. checked it over a little put in gas and it fired right up!!
Drove about 100 yards, ran about half throttle wouldn't idle. Put on somenew parts, jug/piston and rings, carb and valve seals.
'went together ok, tuned it over by hand about 6 revs whick went well. Hit the starter it fired for about 6 revs and quit. tried it again fired once and then th sound of something slipping like maybe chain slipping over spoket.
Took cover off to watch cam sproket, hit starter again, heard same noise and the cam sproket was not turning but jumping a bit. Chain was still tight. You will probably tell me I need to split the lower case but hoping there mightbe something else.
I don't fully understand the chain tightener, the plunger only moves about 1/4 inch, should it move much more than that when off the motor and compressing it by hand?
Thanks for any thoughts.
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By mga
I have a Yamaha Big Bear 400 4x4 2000. I've posted on here about the frame being bent. Does anyone know what year frames are interchangeable? Also, would the frame from a 350 be the same as a 400? Would it matter if it was a 4x4 or 2x4?
thanks for any help with this
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By WHALErn
I ordered an ATV through ElectriRide a ( Pioneer 1500w Power E-Grizzly Electric ATV ), on February 13, 2024. They ( ElectriRide ), ordered it from the manufacture on February 28, 2024. Not sure when it shipped, but it arrive here at my house on June 25, 2024. I live in Hawaii.
Unpacking it, I quickly became aware that this was not the ATV that I ordered. The package had some damaged, but not major. After unpacking it, it was very obvious that this was not the ATV that I had ordered, plus it was missing some a number of parts, namely the rear rack & no instruction or electrical circuit layout, just to name a few. A couple of days later I found ( 2 ) small two burnt holes in the upper frame, right side, also. Several days later I tried to charge the batteries on the ATV, after plugging it in for over 4 hours, “NO CHARGE” , I checked the charger’s output voltage, it read “ “ 0 “ volts, the charger needs to be replaced also.
The next day, I reported all of this to ElectriRide, & they asked for photos, which I later that day send to them. They said they would look into it and get back to me. For the last 2 1/2 weeks, I have been calling them (playing phone tag ) & emailing them, basically getting the same message back from them. They sent me e-mails “ we will get back to you “ or “ Please rest assured that we are committed to resolving this matter to your satisfaction. “. As of today, that message was 10 day ago, and it’s been 3 weeks after receiving the wrong ATV. And 5 months from the time of ordering the ATV.
The ATV that this looks the most similar/closest to the one that I received is the ( Pioneer 48v 1000w Adult ATV Electric ) in their catalog, but there are a number of differences to it also. ( Mostly it’s a 1000 watts motor, not a 1500 watts motor ATV, plus a number of other things also ). The suspension & wheels are completely different, along with some of the electrical components, and it was missing the rear rack also. Along with some other minor things.
I seem to be getting nowhere with communicating with them, (ElectriRide ) in getting this mix-up / changes resolved after calling / emailing them pretty much daily for over 3+ weeks, I am turning to you, the ATV community for any suggestions for helping me to solve my problem.
Please leave any suggestion / ideas, you thing might help me solve this problem, or who to contact that might be able to help..
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By HoldenBoy
Hi all,
Looking for some help on a starter/bendix issue. Can Am outlander 450 2017. While cranking to start, the starter spins and engages into the ring gear. After a few seconds the bendix retracts while still spinning and there is no damaged teeth on the drive pulley.
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