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By BuckBilly
I like to ride in wooded and grassy areas. It takes my mind off the everyday routines and helps me deal with my father's cancer. Also gives me a reason to get involved with forums like this one.
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By fwsamm
Im aware that this relay needs a positive (+) and a negative (-) to activate the other side. The blue wire is the neutral wire so when in neutral it gets ground. The green wire is from the parking break; when you pull the break in it gets ground (-). however one of those two needs to be neutral so that the positive from kill switch can go to the starter relay. The ground from the starter relay is from the start switch. Which one (neutral or parking break) should have a positive (+) voltage?
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By jhamrick75
If anyone is having issues with the Mikuni VM24SS carb, I thought I would post what issues I had and how I resolved them.
Acquired a 93 Bayou 220 that had sat for over 4 years.
The carb was extremely corroded and pitted and full of leftover fuel.
Cleaned carb and bowl and was able to get the engine to start.
Within 30 seconds exhaust would heat up and start to glow red hot.
Removed carb and recleaned everything, including a second overnight soak.
Needless to say, after removing the carb for the 5th time and my frustration to the limit I
realized that my attention had been to the carb body and not to the bowl.
There is a small brass rod on the bottom of the carb that goes down into the float bowl but is seperated from the main section. I had cleaned that area very well....I had thought.
***The corrosion had sealed off the channel that runs from the main bowl section to the small tube section on the side of the float bowl. No amount of carb cleaner was going to get it to budge. So i took a small nail and started to scrape away the corrosion and was eventually able to dislodge enought of the corrosion that carb cleaner would flow through that channel. ***
I thoroughly cleaned each side of the channel in the float bowl and reinstalled the carb and now the issue of it running lean is gone.
On a second note the fuel mixture screw was a nightmare to remove as the threads had been corroded and wouldnt let the screw come out. I used a little cutting oil and worked the mixture screw in and out until I was able to push past the corroded threads and completely remove the needle. After a couple passes with a tap to clean the threads it is like new again.
Hope this helps if you are having a lean running machine.
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By Gwbarm
I finally got around to working on the TRX, this has been an ongoing problem with this machine. This is a machine that we keep on my Fathers property, i dont see it that often, my brother haad it professionally repaired last year and year before same problem, the new starter gears and bypass gears last about a year and the machine is not used that often, he said he was done with it , so i thought i should go take a look. Sure enough the gears were all malled again.
IMG_4910.mov There is some slack in there but most is taken up by the gear cover,if anyone with history with these machines has had the same problem, let me know your findings. Where i am now im looking for finding replacement honda gears on Ebay and try those. I suspect the original was replaced with aftermarket gears years ago and they just worse quality as the years go by.
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