Quantcast
Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted

I own a 1998 Yamaha Big Bear 350 4x2. I recently purchased a Submarine Snorkel brand snorkel kit for it which didn't fit properly, so I decided to build one homemade. I ran 1.5" PVC from the stock air box up to the front of the quad. It passes thru the front right fender and pipes into a 2" PVC mounted to a crash plate on the front rack. I connected the crank case breather line into the 1.5" PVC as well. I made a 2nd Snorkel on left side of quad which is a faux snorkel since it's purpose is to conceal the breather lines I have extended from the rr drum brake, rr dif., and carb. I took care to loop the breather lines a couple of times to prevent water from getting in, in the event I ever sink the quad. I also siliconed the air-box lid and used Dielectric grease on all electrical connections. I don't go swimming with my Big Bear but I do ride thru fairly deep water occasionally and I just wanted the snorkel installed as a precautionary measure for those unexpected dips u take when traveling across what u thought was a shallow puddle on the trail. LOL. Any way, since installing this snorkel my quad has an odd throttle response. When riding at normal speeds it's unnoticeable, but when hammering the throttle or fluttering the throttle the response seems to lag. I also notice if I'm in a gear too high for the slower speed I'm going the quad sounds like it's about to stall. I know normally u downshift the slower u drive, but it used to drive in a higher gear at low speeds and not bog down like it does now. I'm told I should re-Jet my carb. I'm pondering installing Dial a Jet. Any suggestions from you experienced riders? Removing the carb is a PITA and reinstalling it is equally fun. I've already rebuilt the carb prior to snork install. I like the concept of a dial a jet being able to adjust on the fly, but wasn't sure if it's the way to go. Please help. Any advice is greatly appreciated guys!

quadcrazy 01 snork.jpg

quadcrazy 02 snork.jpg

57d773458aea4_quadcrazy01snork.jpg.95a538b90aaa7f25371a1c027b4eab31.jpg

57d773458ed46_quadcrazy02snork.jpg.900e68bf2670511cb7b712b45aa73a17.jpg

  • 8 months later...
Posted

Hey MadMan did you ever figure out how to fix your problem. I recently made a snorkel for my 95 Big Bear 350 and am experiencing the same issues. It idles fine and runs good in high gear, but when you give the throttle quick revs it sounds like its being sufficated and wants to die. I tried to adjust idle screw and fuel mix screw and no luck. Thanks.

Posted

Soco499; Yes, I did fix mine. I adjusted the carb needle to remedy my problem with throttle. I opened up the carb, pulled the needle out, and moved the needle clip one notch down which raised my needle slightly. By raising the needle position it makes bike run a little RICH. My snorkel mod increased my airflow, so I needed more fuel to compensate. The bike previously was running like crap. It'd bog down when i would punch throttle from a stand still. Now throttle response feels right. My stock exhaust is rusted to Hell, so I am ordering a new DG RCM ll slip one exhaust from Amazon. I'm sure I'll have to rejet my carb afterwords. I'll keep u posted how the bike runs after the install. BTW I have discovered no one sells an after market slip on exhaust or these old Big Bear bikes. A stock Yamaha ugly steel can one cost more than a new DG pipe. I hope it's not a POS. Good luck with your Big Bear! These old Yamahas are bullet proof IMO.

  • 5 months later...
Posted
Hey MadMan did you ever figure out how to fix your problem. I recently made a snorkel for my 95 Big Bear 350 and am experiencing the same issues. It idles fine and runs good in high gear, but when you give the throttle quick revs it sounds like its being sufficated and wants to die. I tried to adjust idle screw and fuel mix screw and no luck. Thanks.

Its been a while since my last post. To recap, I have a snorkel and after market DG RCM slip on exhaust installed on my 98 yamaha 350 4x2 big bear. The raised the carb NEEDLE up a bump and changed my Main stock jet from #120 to a #145. Bike was running great afterwords. It was peppy and sounded killer. I recently had it in storage for maybe 4 months and now its running crappy. It doesnt want to idle for very long, keeps stalling. It drives fine with light or medium throttle but if I punch the throttle the revs stop. Its like a let off the gas when in reality Im holding it down. If I drive up steep incline the motor stops. It will then start back up once bike is on flat ground again. Could this be due to a sticky float in carb? This bike had a float that would stick about a yr ago and I chgd the needle valve set. Maybe it needs to be done again or a simple cleaning? I forgot to check the carb drain to see if it was pissing fuel last ride. Thats usually my clue the float is stuck. The needle valve set looks like its made out of aluminum and the tip appears to be dipped in rubber. Last time I changed it the alum looked pitted which caused it to get stuck in place and not move freely with the float. I hope its a simple fix. For an old bike this thing is solid! Yamaha built it like a tank and it drives like one too. LOL!

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

  • Similar Forum Topics

    • By Thumpinhard25
      First thanks for any help guys, new to the forums and it's gotten me this far. I bought a 2001 bear tracker 250 for my family to get around the dirt bikes races. It wasn't running right and had a high idle. Previous owner thought it was a carb problem, so he ordered a new Zoom carb and new intake boot, but it still had the same high idle. ( I believe he had the throttle cable adjusted wrong, because it idled fine when I put it back together) So I tore down and cleaned the stock carb, and it started up and idled fine, but needed to have the choke 1/2 out to run.  I swapped to the new zoom carb and had the same issue. Choke half out bike ran ok. I played with the needle and the pilot screw with no change. ( bike did seem to be running rich though, but didn't get better when I tightened pilot screw or raised meddle) I Took it to the races and once I started bouncing around in the cattle fields the quad started cutting out real bad. It would barely run.  Sometimes it would run with choke off, sometimes choke 1/2, sometime choke full. I cleaned carb again, checked float level, and boots, no change still wouldn't run. Then suddenly it started running ok again.  This makes me believe it's an electrical issue rather then carb. I know there's no air leak, it's been checked, both carbs are clean( I've swapped them out a couple times, it starts up immediately and usually idles fine. But then bogs down/ or stutters under throttle. I saw the post on the guy who disconnected his rectifier and reconnected and suddenly it started working again, which lead me to believe it may be electrical and not carb.  So any advice on what I should check? Any way to test the CDI or rectifier?  Once again, I appreciate your help.  
    • By Rich1028
      I Crashed My Quad
      Well the Way I Ride, some of you knew it was Inevitable.
      Below are Three Videos.
      First one is Slow Motion of How it Happens.
      Second one is Normal Speed, and what happens after the Accident.
      Third one Follows more of what happens after .

      I Was Riding By Myself. I was going through a Mud HOLE Either there was a log or a rock, or A Dip but just as I was almost through it, Machine, Rolled over on my right side, as soon as I contacted the ground, I Heard A SNAP! I got up, flipped the Quad back over. I had the wind knocked out of me.

      5 broken Ribs
      1 Punctured Lung
      1 Broken Collar Bone
      2023 Quad Riding Season is Over for ME!
       
       
       
    • By Kaz
      Troubleshooting a no spark issue, was running OK, maybe a little rich, turned it off, now no spark. I've checked/ohmed out the main key switch, the start/stop switch, neutral switch, brake switch - all good. It will crank the starter, but no spark with the starter or when I try the pull start. I've checked all fuses and diodes. Swapped battery. New plug. New coil. Swapped in a used CDI - no help. Traced, removed, cleaned, reattached all grounds. Removed things like my winch from the circuits to be sure a bad relay or something was dragging it down. When testing voltages, the orange wire going from the CDI to the ignition coil shows no/very low voltage-shouldn't it have 12V on it? Sometimes I get a very weak, intermittent glow on my spark tester, but not enough to fire the plug. I've checked continuity on just about all wires in the harness. Checked/cleaned/lubed w dielectric grease- all connections, redid a few that looked old/dirty. I've checked the stator resistances, all good, but have a stator and rectifier ordered anyway, will arrive Sunday. I verified that the rectifier has a voltage output back to charge the battery while cranking - 10.5-11V, low, but expected while starter is engaged. What else can I check as part of troubleshooting? I have a Haines service manual, but the 1999 350 4x4 seems to be an odd model, there isn't an exact electrical diagram for it, but found one for another year that has all the same number of wires and same color wires, so I've referenced that. Any hints, tips or advice would be appreciated! Thanks!
    • By fwsamm
      Im aware that this relay needs a positive (+) and a negative (-) to activate the other side. The blue wire is the neutral wire so when in neutral it gets ground. The green wire is from the parking break; when you pull the break in it gets ground (-). however one of those two needs to be neutral so that the positive from kill switch can go to the starter relay. The ground from the starter relay is from the start switch. Which one (neutral or parking break) should have a positive (+) voltage?
    • By P_syko
      I’m brand new to 4 wheelers and just bought a 1987 Yamaha Moto 4 350. It has good compression and fuel, but no spark. I’ve looked high and low trying to find how to test all the components of the ignition system, but can’t find anything. This has a new CDI box on it, but I suspect it might be the stator. How do I test the stator on this? Any help would be greatly appreciated! 
×
×
  • Create New...