Quantcast
Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted

I just put a carb rebuild kit in my Big Bear 350 and it seemed to start fine. Today I take it hunting and its hard to start. Lots of spark, turns over fine. It fires and stalls, then while trying to start it again it floods.

I pull the plug and its soaked.

Only way I can start it (cold) is to spray the plug with quick start and reinstall it. When it fires I bring up the Rpms until it warms up, then it's fine. Sometime I have to pull/spray the plug 2-3 times before it will stay running.

I need help quickly or it will be a long week.

BTW the screw is out 2 1/4 turns

Posted

Same problem starting it this morning. What I did notice was when it fired and died on the first attempt the plug wasn't wet. It almost appear like it isn't getting any fuel at the beginning and taking a bit of fiddling to get it to draw. Once it starts to draw gas it runs great.

Posted

Maybe fuel petcock needs a good cleaning.

Have you tested that? Pull fuel line off carb and place in a plastic water bottle then turn petcock on to make sure you have a nice flow of fuel.

If its not steady flow...might need cleaning or replacing.

Posted
Maybe fuel petcock needs a good cleaning.

Have you tested that? Pull fuel line off carb and place in a plastic water bottle then turn petcock on to make sure you have a nice flow of fuel.

If its not steady flow...might need cleaning or replacing.

Thanx.

Tried that and it's good. Definitely has something to do with the rebuild kit I used.

It was a Shindy kit, package said 89-92 Big Bear but the guy where I ordered it told me would work for my 88. I'm thinking different jet size. Guess I'll have to pay $85/hr for a shop to fix it.

I've never had luck rebuilding carbs.

Posted

Ok, it was warmer out thus morning, about 36 F, started right up.

Never had this issue before I rebuilt the carb. My problem was mid-range. I cured my problem, but caused a major one.

Is there nobody out here that can help me?

Seems to be something in the pilot circuit. Could it be the pilot valve (the long pin that slides up/down by the cable) is in the wrong notch. Should I try moving the clip up one notch to drop the pin & lean it out?

Should I change the pilot jet back to the old one?

Should I spend $600 and by a new carb? Or pay $85/hr to have it all redone.

Posted

bOY, i WOULD NOT SPEND $600 FOR A NEW CARB...Ebay has several I believe for far less than that.

I am no expert by any means but if it were me, I think I would pull the carb and go through the rebuild steps just to make sure I did not mess up somewhere and that everything is where it should be and clean.

PIA I know but it will give you peace of mind that you did it correctly or you'll find an issue.

I am kind of on the fence when it comes to a replacement or not of the jets and hard parts in a carb when rebuilding. Floats, seals, needle valve sure.

You could put that original jet back in a see what you get.

Posted
bOY, i WOULD NOT SPEND $600 FOR A NEW CARB...Ebay has several I believe for far less than that.

I am no expert by any means but if it were me, I think I would pull the carb and go through the rebuild steps just to make sure I did not mess up somewhere and that everything is where it should be and clean.

PIA I know but it will give you peace of mind that you did it correctly or you'll find an issue.

I am kind of on the fence when it comes to a replacement or not of the jets and hard parts in a carb when rebuilding. Floats, seals, needle valve sure.

You could put that original jet back in a see what you get.

I was thinking if pulling and putting the original jets back in it and go from there. I'm wishing now that I didn't touch it, but it ran like crap in mid-range. Should just tried cleaning it.

Oh well, live & learn, crash & burn

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

  • Similar Forum Topics

    • By Thumpinhard25
      First thanks for any help guys, new to the forums and it's gotten me this far. I bought a 2001 bear tracker 250 for my family to get around the dirt bikes races. It wasn't running right and had a high idle. Previous owner thought it was a carb problem, so he ordered a new Zoom carb and new intake boot, but it still had the same high idle. ( I believe he had the throttle cable adjusted wrong, because it idled fine when I put it back together) So I tore down and cleaned the stock carb, and it started up and idled fine, but needed to have the choke 1/2 out to run.  I swapped to the new zoom carb and had the same issue. Choke half out bike ran ok. I played with the needle and the pilot screw with no change. ( bike did seem to be running rich though, but didn't get better when I tightened pilot screw or raised meddle) I Took it to the races and once I started bouncing around in the cattle fields the quad started cutting out real bad. It would barely run.  Sometimes it would run with choke off, sometimes choke 1/2, sometime choke full. I cleaned carb again, checked float level, and boots, no change still wouldn't run. Then suddenly it started running ok again.  This makes me believe it's an electrical issue rather then carb. I know there's no air leak, it's been checked, both carbs are clean( I've swapped them out a couple times, it starts up immediately and usually idles fine. But then bogs down/ or stutters under throttle. I saw the post on the guy who disconnected his rectifier and reconnected and suddenly it started working again, which lead me to believe it may be electrical and not carb.  So any advice on what I should check? Any way to test the CDI or rectifier?  Once again, I appreciate your help.  
    • By kawasig
      Hello All
      I'm kinda new to ATVs. I just bought a 1987 Suzuki quad runner 230 Dual Range. I'm having a problem finding info on it. It's very clean, only 2.800 miles. The front wheels are only 30 in.center to center. I was thinking about adding wheel spacers to give it more stability. I realize the added stress on ball joints and bearings. I'm wondering if there are any other concerns? Any input is greatly appreciated!
    • By ATVNetwork
      As the 2025 ATV Motocross National Championship Series (ATVMX), an AMA National Championship, got underway with back-to-back Florida AMA Pro only events, it was evident that Phoenix Racing Yamaha’s Joel Hetrick picked up where he left off last season.View the full article
    • By Tinkeringreg
      Hi my name is Greg and I just acquired a free 2000 yamaha kodiac 400 4x4 with the ultramatic transmission that does not run. I plan to get it going and use it around my property

    • By Kaz
      Troubleshooting a no spark issue, was running OK, maybe a little rich, turned it off, now no spark. I've checked/ohmed out the main key switch, the start/stop switch, neutral switch, brake switch - all good. It will crank the starter, but no spark with the starter or when I try the pull start. I've checked all fuses and diodes. Swapped battery. New plug. New coil. Swapped in a used CDI - no help. Traced, removed, cleaned, reattached all grounds. Removed things like my winch from the circuits to be sure a bad relay or something was dragging it down. When testing voltages, the orange wire going from the CDI to the ignition coil shows no/very low voltage-shouldn't it have 12V on it? Sometimes I get a very weak, intermittent glow on my spark tester, but not enough to fire the plug. I've checked continuity on just about all wires in the harness. Checked/cleaned/lubed w dielectric grease- all connections, redid a few that looked old/dirty. I've checked the stator resistances, all good, but have a stator and rectifier ordered anyway, will arrive Sunday. I verified that the rectifier has a voltage output back to charge the battery while cranking - 10.5-11V, low, but expected while starter is engaged. What else can I check as part of troubleshooting? I have a Haines service manual, but the 1999 350 4x4 seems to be an odd model, there isn't an exact electrical diagram for it, but found one for another year that has all the same number of wires and same color wires, so I've referenced that. Any hints, tips or advice would be appreciated! Thanks!
×
×
  • Create New...