Quantcast
Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted (edited)

Thanks man! Its an awesome quad, its a bit heavy and I think my buddy was somewhat annoyed when he found out how heavy it was compared to the 450's and 400ex's, its a 100 pounds heavier then the Raptor 700 but 50 pounds less then the KFX 700, it is a fast quad tho! Very comfy seat compared to the tiny seat on my 450 lol

It died when we were riding a few days ago, hes ruled it down to the rectifier or something electronic, hopefully its nothing major, he replaced the battery and got the same problem

Edited by TRX450

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

  • Similar Forum Topics

    • By Coyote251
      I'm trying to help a buddy out with his bike (he's not really on the internet or familiar with these forums) and I'll admit that I am not super familiar with the transmission and clutches in these bikes. I owned a Brute a few years ago, but never had an issue like this that I had to troubleshoot.
      So basically my buddy bought a group lot of 650's to build one good bike out of. He got it all put together and has it running but when he pushes on the throttle the clutch doesn't engage till the RPM's are quite high and even when its moving it doesn't really speed up, almost seems like its in "limp mode". He's tried 2 different transmissions so I don't think that's the problem. 
      Is there any adjustment on the clutch engagement? Anything else I can tell him to look at? Let me know if you need anymore information if you think you can help.  
    • By Trent Finnessey
      So I’ve got a 2000 Honda 400ex absolutely love it!! I’ve had it for about a month, I ride with bruteforce 750’s, outlander 850’s and 1000 sxs’s and I was thinking of getting a trx450r carb and a full hmf exhaust. And probably doing the air box mod too, how much power would this give my 400? Just a little different or a big difference? Cuz if it’s not much of a different I’ll just stick with my dg slip on..... thanks!
    • By Gwbarm
      I finally got around to working on the TRX, this has been an ongoing problem with this machine. This is a machine that we keep on my Fathers property, i dont see it that often, my brother haad it professionally repaired last year and year before same problem, the new starter gears and bypass gears last about a year and the machine is not used that often, he said he was done with it , so i thought i should go take a look. Sure enough the gears were all malled again. 
       

       

      IMG_4910.mov   There is some slack in there but most is taken up by the gear cover,if anyone with history with these machines has had the same problem, let me know your findings. Where i am now im looking for finding replacement honda gears on Ebay and try those. I suspect the original was replaced with aftermarket gears years ago and they just worse quality as the years go by. 
    • By marcosphoto
      Hi folks, a little disparity brought me to this forum.  To set the stage, I'm a 35 auto tech in the industry 37 years now.  Licensed motorcycle tech also, 20+ years.  I race superbike and motocross.  Always done most of my own standard work (outside of specific race machine works) including building my own race bike engines.  Now that skills are out of the way, onwards and upwards. 
      Helping a neighbor with his old quest 500, right front axle seal leak.  Well, looks like everything else - right?  Wrong!  Initially I noticed the CV joint was lacking large lands to place prybars on to pop it out, rather a thin shield like ring very close to the diff seal.  Knowing the ring appeared quite delicate, I only pried gently and the CV popped out.  However this is where things get weird.  Came out only around 7-9mm then hung up again, felt like the clip was catching inside the diff.  So spun and pulled, spun and pulled until I was blue in the face but no success getting it out.  Also while it was out, I could see that the delicate ring around the outer circumference of the joint was actually the sealing surface where the seal contacts, instead of the norm where the seal rubs inside the diff much deeper and stays cleaner.  I've never seen a joint like this, also the service manuals photos which apply to 650 also reflected a standard joint I am accustomed to rather than this one I was fighting with.  Rather than break something in the diff, I decided to stop while I was ahead and reassemble the machine before something broke.  (The joint would pop in and out of place easy enough, just wouldn't slide out further than 7-9mm).  While the joint was a little out and sealing surface exposed, I cleaned the seal and sealing surfaces clean as possible before putting back together.  Seems to be holding for now, but eventually I'm sure the leak will come back.  Any thoughts as to why that CV joint just refused to come all the way out?
    • By Coyote251
      View File 2016 Can-Am Outlander 570, 650 & 850 L-Series service manual
      service manual - 2016 Can-Am Outlander L-Series
      2016 Can-Am Outlander 570, 650 & 850 Standard Series Here is combined the base manual along with all the needed updates and the 2016 supplement manual into one manual
      Submitter Coyote251 Submitted 01/03/2025 Category Can-Am BRP ATV  
×
×
  • Create New...