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Similar Forum Topics
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By marcosphoto
Hi folks, a little disparity brought me to this forum. To set the stage, I'm a 35 auto tech in the industry 37 years now. Licensed motorcycle tech also, 20+ years. I race superbike and motocross. Always done most of my own standard work (outside of specific race machine works) including building my own race bike engines. Now that skills are out of the way, onwards and upwards.
Helping a neighbor with his old quest 500, right front axle seal leak. Well, looks like everything else - right? Wrong! Initially I noticed the CV joint was lacking large lands to place prybars on to pop it out, rather a thin shield like ring very close to the diff seal. Knowing the ring appeared quite delicate, I only pried gently and the CV popped out. However this is where things get weird. Came out only around 7-9mm then hung up again, felt like the clip was catching inside the diff. So spun and pulled, spun and pulled until I was blue in the face but no success getting it out. Also while it was out, I could see that the delicate ring around the outer circumference of the joint was actually the sealing surface where the seal contacts, instead of the norm where the seal rubs inside the diff much deeper and stays cleaner. I've never seen a joint like this, also the service manuals photos which apply to 650 also reflected a standard joint I am accustomed to rather than this one I was fighting with. Rather than break something in the diff, I decided to stop while I was ahead and reassemble the machine before something broke. (The joint would pop in and out of place easy enough, just wouldn't slide out further than 7-9mm). While the joint was a little out and sealing surface exposed, I cleaned the seal and sealing surfaces clean as possible before putting back together. Seems to be holding for now, but eventually I'm sure the leak will come back. Any thoughts as to why that CV joint just refused to come all the way out?
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By Coyote251
View File 2016 Can-Am Outlander 570, 650 & 850 L-Series service manual
service manual - 2016 Can-Am Outlander L-Series
2016 Can-Am Outlander 570, 650 & 850 Standard Series Here is combined the base manual along with all the needed updates and the 2016 supplement manual into one manual
Submitter Coyote251 Submitted 01/03/2025 Category Can-Am BRP ATV
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By huntindog
I am in the process of puting it back together after replacing the DPS gearbox.
The manual I have states that it will need to be flashed by a dealer. Is this still true?
Also , I have a mystery bolt That I cannot remember where it goes. M6x 70 or so. Hex head with a flat washer.I will try to attach a pic.
Pic is no go for now....Cox issue I will try again later
TIA
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By BenJammin
I did a compression test on my 2005 Bombardier Traxter 650 CVT and it's 75 PSI. service manual only talks about leak down test. No specification for engine compression the manual. What does 75 PSI tell me? Thank in advance.
A little history of this machine. 640 miles. Picked it up about 2 years ago, not running. Probably the computer. Tested all circuits and confirm it was the computer. Long story short, I watched a Youtube video and fixed the computer. ATV now started and runs. BUT, it tops out 20 MPH. I cleaned the carb 3 times also using a Mikuni carb kit after the second time. Slide in carb is going up and down. Only adjustment for fuel is at 1.5 turns out. NGK Sparkplug had soot on main part but brown on the electrode. Champion sparkplug is brown. I check CVT clutches and they both appear to engage like they suppose to. Checked valve clearance it's 0.00, I can't get any feeler gauges in-between. I check timing chain I believe it's in the correct position and hasn't skipped. I removed muffler plug and drilled into muffler to try and make sure it wasn't plugged.
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By Sofaspud
My 2008 can-am Outlander 800r is having hard shifting issues. Does anyone have a fix for this ?
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