Quantcast
Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted

well guys, the retrofit worked great, removed the computerized throttle body from my bike and replaced it with a carb off of one of my hondas , its not quite right yet, the carb does not put out quite enough fuel, going to the cycle shop tomorrow to get oversize jets for it. as it is right now with no where near enough fuel i was able to ride it around my neighborhood, got it up to 35mph, it runs smooth as a dream, anyone with one of these 4wheelers having fuel issues feel free to msg me for more details on the retrofit:yes:

Posted

why did i remove the fuel injection? it has not run right in 2 years, the original owner took it to suzuki dealer, and to another local cycle shop, has had at least 8 different mechanics work on it, before he finally got fed up with it and told me if i can crank it i can have it, there has been almost 2 thousand dollars sunk into the fuel system to try and fix it, i am not going to have a 4wheeler that is not dependable, i dont trust computerized fuel injection on the trails i ride, the less electronics the better, i put the carb on it, it fired right up, runs great, just gotta rejet the carb so it can dump enough fuel for this engine, it has run longer today than it has in the last year, sounds to me like it was the right thing to do, i am not made of money, i just plain cant afford to keep working on the electronics

Posted

also from what i have been reading the fuel system is notorious for giving you fits on these bikes, if its that much trouble then just do away with it, the only thing that changed is the fi light on the dash is flashing now, cause the throttle body is not hooked up

Posted

im really glad this worked too, the process was extremely simple, i am fabricating the permanent intake set up now, what i used to test the idea was a couple pieces of 1 1/2 pvc, now this is not the way im leaving it, so dont laugh at my rigging, i just made it quick and simple to see if it would work or not.

first off remove the factory air box and throttle body, then remove the butterfly flap out of the throttle body, bevel the end of a piece of pvc and hammered it into the top of the throttle body, then put a 90 on it, then another short piece of pipe, finally attach the carb to the end of the pipe, ( if you have a vertical carb you can just put it straight on the original mount) i used a horizontal carb, i just temporarily strapped the gas tank off my rancher on the front rack and run the fuel line, run the snorkle pipe up, install k n air filter on top, put a cap over the filter to stop the mud from getting in it.

my permanent set up will be metal pipe welded to a flange to bolt directly on the head turned back with a rubber boot to connect the carb, then run through the snorkle. i am going to install a fuel tank above the carb where the factory air box was, since no room is left for the filter box, the air filter will go on the top of the snorkle and covered to protect it from excess water and mud

it runs very smooth, only problem is that right now i have to keep the choke cable pulled out, the carb needs to be rebuilt and oversize jets put in, it come off of a honda rancher 350 4x4, it needed to be rebuilt before the engine finally gave out on the honda, if it runs it that good with a bad carb in desperate need of a rebuild, i know its going to run great soon as i rebuild and jet it

this 4wheeler has run more today than it has in the last 2 years. this thing was enough to make you hate suzuki, its made several mechanics, shops, and the suzuki dealer all pull their hair out and finally say come get it,

everything else had been tried at least once, i figured it was time to try some old school on it, im honestly a lil surprised that it actually worked, its in saucier ms, gonna be finished right an on the trails by day after tomorrow

Posted

thank you, now my wife doesnt have to ride on my bike, she can take the honda rancher sitting on 27 inch gator paddles. i can take the 700, its a lot more fun in the deep mud when you have the bike to yourself, im taking the 700 out to the gravel pit by my house, see how it does in real conditions before i take it to the real trails

Posted

i decided to leave the original tank and fuel pump on the bike, it is not hooked to the engine, i put 12 feet of fuel hose on the pump, use a bolt in the end of the hose to keep trash out, whenever my small tank im running the bike on runs out all i gotta do is pull the hose out of the rear storage box, stick it in the tank an turn on the pump. should be able to refuel bout two an a half times without leaving the woods or having to walk out to get gas, an if anybody on the trail needs gas i can hook em up with enough to get outta the woods with

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

  • Similar Forum Topics

    • By BuckBilly
      I like to ride in wooded and grassy areas. It takes my mind off the everyday routines and helps me deal with my father's cancer. Also gives me a reason to get involved with forums like this one.
    • By Dumass
      My name says it all. I have a '03 Honda Sporttrax 400EX with a new aftermarket carb on it that seems to be having issues. I can start it but it idles really rough and when I give it throttle it just kills the engine. I have tried adjusting the idle screw but to no avail. I am in the San Diego Ca area. 
      Any advice will be greatly appreciated. I would also like to get an owners manual for the thing too but can't seem to find a downloadable one.
    • By Trent Finnessey
      So I’ve got a 2000 Honda 400ex absolutely love it!! I’ve had it for about a month, I ride with bruteforce 750’s, outlander 850’s and 1000 sxs’s and I was thinking of getting a trx450r carb and a full hmf exhaust. And probably doing the air box mod too, how much power would this give my 400? Just a little different or a big difference? Cuz if it’s not much of a different I’ll just stick with my dg slip on..... thanks!
    • By DPDISXR4Ti
      I hadn't driven my Kodiak for a two months, and since it was low on fuel, the first thing I did was filled it up to maybe 7/8 full. Getting ready to start it, I rotated the fuel selector switch to "on" and within seconds I smelled and saw fuel dripping onto the floor. I quickly turned it off and the fuel gradually stopped - I can repeat this.
      The fuel is flowing from the hose that is connected to the bottom of the carb, and routes around to the left side toward the wheel well. Any idea what's going on here? It ran fine the last time I had it out.
      Thanks...
    • By jhamrick75
      If anyone is having issues with the Mikuni VM24SS carb, I thought I would post what issues I had and how I resolved them.
      Acquired a 93 Bayou 220 that had sat for over 4 years.
      The carb was extremely corroded and pitted and full of leftover fuel.
      Cleaned carb and bowl and was able to get the engine to start.
      Within 30 seconds exhaust would heat up and start to glow red hot.
      Removed carb and recleaned everything, including a second overnight soak.
      Needless to say, after removing the carb for the 5th time and my frustration to the limit I
      realized that my attention had been to the carb body and not to the bowl.
      There is a small brass rod on the bottom of the carb that goes down into the float bowl but is seperated from the main section. I had cleaned that area very well....I had thought.
      ***The corrosion had sealed off the channel that runs from the main bowl section to the small tube section on the side of the float bowl. No amount of carb cleaner was going to get it to budge. So i took a small nail and started to scrape away the corrosion and was eventually able to dislodge enought of the corrosion that carb cleaner would flow through that channel. ***
      I thoroughly cleaned each side of the channel in the float bowl and reinstalled the carb and now the issue of it running lean is gone.
      On a second note the fuel mixture screw was a nightmare to remove as the threads had been corroded and wouldnt let the screw come out. I used a little cutting oil and worked the mixture screw in and out until I was able to push past the corroded threads and completely remove the needle. After a couple passes with a tap to clean the threads it is like new again.
      Hope this helps if you are having a lean running machine.
×
×
  • Create New...