1993 Polaris 350L - Blowing Anti-freeze Out
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By DPDISXR4Ti
I hadn't driven my Kodiak for a two months, and since it was low on fuel, the first thing I did was filled it up to maybe 7/8 full. Getting ready to start it, I rotated the fuel selector switch to "on" and within seconds I smelled and saw fuel dripping onto the floor. I quickly turned it off and the fuel gradually stopped - I can repeat this.
The fuel is flowing from the hose that is connected to the bottom of the carb, and routes around to the left side toward the wheel well. Any idea what's going on here? It ran fine the last time I had it out.
Thanks...
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By beast6228
I've been trying to piece this Lakota 300 back together, slowly. It's been a rabbit hole however. I replace one thing, then it leads to replacing other things. Anyway, When I got this thing I noticed that the hose coming off the camshaft cover wasn't attached to anything, it was just hanging loose. (It's literally just a foot long hose attached to nothing) I figured since it was venting the head it would be ok and I am sure it is.
However, last night I was looking at the service manual and noticed that it mentioned that this atv has a crankcase breather tube as well. Mine does not have one, so I looked at Partzilla and looked at the parts diagram and sure enough, it's definitely supposed to have one. The problem however is, the service manual does not show how it hooks up and the parts diagram only shows the exploded view of the assembly. I just find that kind of strange, nowhere in the manual does it show how it connects. Does it have it connector, attach to a nipple? It just doesn't say and it bothers me that there is a hole there without anything attached to it. If anyone has a Bayou 300 or Lakota 300 with an intact breather vent system and could possibly take some clear photos of it or know how it connects I would be very grateful. I have searched high and low and cannot find any information on it.
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By Eisaks777
hello, i have bpr bombaradier rally 200 2007 which has a lot of gasoline in the oil sump, it is 4 stroke. Has anybody had problem like this and which can be the cause and how to fix it. i rode it today at -2 degrees celcius if it helps.
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By Snick
Bought the project a few weeks ago with weak and intermittent spark. I could smack the CDI box with a screwdriver and it would work fine for a few days. Now, the smack trick is not working and machine is running awful with the weak spark and will most often not fire enough to turn the engine over through combustion (cranks very good). I ordered the GY6 CDI to see if I can get it going again as these CDI boxes are way too expensive even used. battery is fully charged and charging very good.
Wondering if anyone knows how the GY6 (6-pin AC) CDI would wire to this machine. Attached is the electrical diagram. My confusion is with the green and orange wires sharing the 2-pin connector and the Blk/Red wire that runs to the magneto solo. How would I get AC power to the CDI through pin 1 on the GY6 when the CDI has two wires to the pickup-myabe just try one (orange then green) at a time?
^PINOUT:
5 6
2 4
1 3
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By marcosphoto
Hi folks, a little disparity brought me to this forum. To set the stage, I'm a 35 auto tech in the industry 37 years now. Licensed motorcycle tech also, 20+ years. I race superbike and motocross. Always done most of my own standard work (outside of specific race machine works) including building my own race bike engines. Now that skills are out of the way, onwards and upwards.
Helping a neighbor with his old quest 500, right front axle seal leak. Well, looks like everything else - right? Wrong! Initially I noticed the CV joint was lacking large lands to place prybars on to pop it out, rather a thin shield like ring very close to the diff seal. Knowing the ring appeared quite delicate, I only pried gently and the CV popped out. However this is where things get weird. Came out only around 7-9mm then hung up again, felt like the clip was catching inside the diff. So spun and pulled, spun and pulled until I was blue in the face but no success getting it out. Also while it was out, I could see that the delicate ring around the outer circumference of the joint was actually the sealing surface where the seal contacts, instead of the norm where the seal rubs inside the diff much deeper and stays cleaner. I've never seen a joint like this, also the service manuals photos which apply to 650 also reflected a standard joint I am accustomed to rather than this one I was fighting with. Rather than break something in the diff, I decided to stop while I was ahead and reassemble the machine before something broke. (The joint would pop in and out of place easy enough, just wouldn't slide out further than 7-9mm). While the joint was a little out and sealing surface exposed, I cleaned the seal and sealing surfaces clean as possible before putting back together. Seems to be holding for now, but eventually I'm sure the leak will come back. Any thoughts as to why that CV joint just refused to come all the way out?
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