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Posted

I recently pick up a 01 king quad 300. It needs some major tlc. I already started tearing it apart and I am figuring about $300 in parts with me doing all the work. The bearings are shot in the front differential from lack of oil, Right rear axle shaft yoke is broke at the u-joint but I already found one on ebay and should have it tomorrow. The front brake wheel cylinders are froze solid so its probable been sitting for a while. I noticed the clutch slips when it is cold so I am hoping I can just adjust that out. If not I know where I can get a centrifugal clutch for $30. If any one has any pointers it would be appreciated.

Posted (edited)

Well The more I dig the more if find. I am going to up this project to $400 - $500 just in case. If any of you have done a differential rebuild let me know if there any thing in particulate I should look for. Getting it tore apart was a choir, After letting it set in the parts washer for 2 days the bearings actually fell out of it but the races did not. Getting the pinion gear housing out was the worst part of tearing it apart. The bearing were so far gone that the pinion gear it self came right out of the case. No I had to heat the case with MAP gas and ended up using a 2" trailer ball in the race of the bearing to beat the pinion gear housing out of the rest of the case. Today I cleaned the Differential case's back up and got all the case components to slide together the way they should. A lot of the guts are still in the parts washer soaking. I did get the bearing races off of the pinion gear and got that cleaned up as well. Oh the big bearing in the case I ended up cutting out with my die grinder and a small cut off wheel. I have not wrenched like this in a long time and I am enjoying it as well. I know my boy is looking forward to trying it out in the mud as well as I am.

Edited by Zrt1200
Posted

Just remember, EVERY TIME you go thru enough water to go over the front differential, to check BOTH sight glass windows for signs of water intrusion. the one on the front differential, and the one in the engine (engine oil level). if either appear milky or over full, drain it immediately. you will also need to pull the drain plugs on the brakes so they can dry out. playing in the water and mud is a lot of fun. but it makes for a lot of work also. if you decide to do a bunch of water crossings, it would be a great idea to take along 3 or 4 GALLONS of oil with you, to flush the engine with in the event you do get water in it. i have seen this done several times, and you would be amazed how many times you will need to change the engine oil in order to get ALL of the water out.

Posted

i had to change my oil once when i went in a little over my seat, not intentionally mind you, it just dropped off really quick. once i got the bike out, i got it standing on the back wheels and pulled the spark plug and turned it over quite a few times. after i was convinced there was no water in the cylinder or exhaust pipe, i set it back down and started it up for a minute. i shut it down and then checked the oil which was milky. i got a tow back and drained the oil. in between oil changes, (i think i changed it 4 times) i would start the bike up and let it idle for a minute. is that a good idea to do with water in the block to get the good oil distributed?

Posted

you really have no choice but to start the engine to mix the water into the oil, to get it all out. i have wondered at times if a guy could not add a pint of 91% isopropyl alcohol to the oil, and let the machine idle for a few minutes to try to absorb much of the water. but i have never tried it. i have not gotten my quad sunk far enough to get water into the oil yet. hopefully, i wont. but if i do, i just might try it on the first flush out. my buddies lt 250 (i think it was 1986 vintage) that did get swamped, took 8 oil changes before we stopped getting milky oil out of it. he swamped it BAD. and continued to run it until the engine quit. he then swam to shore to get a rope to tie onto his quad. it sat floating for close to 20 minutes. atv's do float, but not always right side up. he wanted to ride it back home, which was about 7 or 8 miles. but i convinced him that he would destroy the engine if he did that.

Posted

Sounds like a big job. Water will kill internals. I also had it where I submerged my old kodiak I had and even got it water locked. Got it started and got home, changed the oil 3 times. :yes:

Posted (edited)

Would adding some Kerosene to the oil help flush it out??? On a precision surface grinder at work it uses Kerosene for spindle bearing oil. This grinder runs 3500 rpm's and was built in the 50's. It has never ben torn apart for bearings and runs every day. I was thinking after my front differential had about 15-20 miles on it I would drain it out and fill it back up with Kerosene, Make one lap around the house and drain it. Then refill it back up with gear lube. What do you think??

Edited by Zrt1200
Posted

if you want to flush out the front differential that way, i think that would be fine. but DO NOT do this to the engine if you swamp it! the most likely part to be damaged, believe it or not, would be the cylinder head. the camshaft, which is fairly hard, rides directly on the aluminum that the cylinder head is made from. and Suzuki quads do not run much oil pressure. to be honest, i think the only reason there is any is to be able to push it around thru the engine. mine runs about 5 pounds while driving it down the trail. so basically, it is a glorified splash lubrication system. if there was actual pressure there, so the cam would float in the oil, like with an automobile system, kerosene in the engine would be ok, providing it was less than 20%. and providing you only ran the engine at low rpm's and under no load. but with the way these are made, i would not do it.

  • 2 weeks later...
Posted

Well, I have multiple parts on order. The front deferential bearing/seal kit showed up this week so I can start to get that back together soon but first I get to help paint our home. My wife decided that she wanted to paint the house NOW!! So all I have worked on the last 4 days is prepping the house for paint. As soon as I get a chance I will update with some photo's on the differential rebuild. Hopefully it will help some one else in the future.

  • 4 weeks later...
Posted (edited)

Well this has been a bigger job than expected and my parts list is up to $650. I am finally done tearing things apart except for the clutch & carb. I am reassembling things now. I rebuilt the front differential & CV joints, I machined up stainless steel wheel cylinder pistons. That should take care of those freezing up for ever. Replace the front brake shoes and turned the drums. I had to take those out to MAX service limit to get a 98% clean up. Replaced both RH & LH rear axle bearings and seals. Replaced the speedometer and cable. Replaced the front wheel bearing seals. Replaced the rear axle into the engine seals. Replace the RH rear axle shaft and Boots on both sides. Drilled out and re-tapped about 15 broken bolts. and replaced a lot of bolts with Stainless Steel SHCS. The previous owner (kids) managed to break off or strip out or round off every exhaust bolt there was. I have a replacement centrifugal clutch to put in and I pray the clutch plates are good!! I am getting tired of working on this but I am praying I will have it done for the Holiday weekend!! If so its time to tear it up!!

Edited by Zrt1200
Posted

actually, that is a poor choice of words. "tearing it up" is EXACTLY what gets many places to ride closed down FOREVER! if it was not due to irresponsible riders "tearing it up", we would have well over 50% more places to ride. and the government would not look down on us as environmental terrorists. fortunately, i know that is not who you are. it was simply a poor choice of words on your part. but it can give others the wrong impression.

Posted

Well it 95% back together now. I have the clutch's gone through and just hooked up the rear brake. Boy I am hoping this is done for the weekend!! I am waiting on one part from Suzuki so I can finish putting the RF brake back together and then I will take it for a test ride before I bolt all the plastic and racks on.

Posted

did you get an orv registration sticker yet? so the DNR, County Sherrif, State police, FBI, and who knows what other govt agency will not treat you like a felon if they catch you 2" off from your property?! also, did you remember to remove the plugs from your exhaust and blow out the accumulated carbon in there?

Posted

Awe, Crackerjacks. I forgot about the exhaust plugs. And it is a pain to tear it apart now. I will do it later after the boys dirt bike is running again as he is just chomping at the bit!!!

Posted

Well, My last parts showed up yesterday. Now I can put the front brakes back together and the rear plastic after I test ride it. I am holding off putting the rear plastic on in case I have to make a clutch adjustment.

Posted

Well, She runs great with no clutch slippage. I still have to put the rear plastic back on it and I have a small hiccup with the front brakes as When I went to remove the master cylinder screws one screw stripped out so I have to drill the head off to get it out. After I get the screw out I can bleed the front brakes out and she will be done!! I tried out 4 wheel drive and differential lock and every thing works great. I only put 2 miles on around the house. It turned out to be a 2 month + project but for all practical purposes it is finished for now. I will do some upgrade in the future but the total parts cost on this was $700. about $300 more than I planned on putting it to it and I did all the labor. But I am a very happy camper. Maybe next week I can try it out in the proper way!!! I will add some pics soon after I clean the garage as the Saturday I was just thrashing trying to get it done and the garage is a disaster zone!! Now on to My boys DR125 dirt bike and then a Suzuki Quadsport 230 we just bought.

Posted

Thank you. And Thank you for the online service manual and every ones help!! I learned a lot on this quad. I also found a great place to get Metric Stainless Steel Socket Head Cap Screws Cheap. I replaced all the clutch cover bolts & oil lines bolts, all the exhaust bolts, all the recoil bolts, and all the skid plate bolts with S.S. SHCS for $25.

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