Quantcast
Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted

hey guys, i just recently installed a wiseco piston that increases my compression from stock which is 9.0:1 to 10.5:1. I am wondering if i have to do any jetting work in the carb, if i should run any different plugs (colder or hotter than stock), what octane fuel you would recommend (im thinking 91 or higher), and also what would be the best way for breaking everything in...

im thinking some extra information might be useful before i fire this thing up :biggrin:

thanks for the help guys!

Posted

sup dude,haven't seen u on here in a while,i would think you would have to go up one jet size,and i would run the highest octane pump gas you con get anyways,the higher octane will help it run better,and you will get a more complete combustion burn

Posted

whats up mike! havent been on in awhile, been pretty busy lately lol... see i wasnt sure if i had to rejet because theoretically i am not adding any more fuel or air, i am just compressing the same amount alot more which made me think that maybe i dont need to rejet. Ill prolly throw some sunoco 94 octane in it today. the higher the octane the more resistant to detonation it is so i figured 94 is a safe start and i can always work my way down to say 93 or 91 octane.... any suggestions on what plugs to run or break in?:wink:

Posted

You should be fine on premium pump gas, just use good gas. I imagine that motor would be good on pump gas up to about 11.5:1 or so. Depending on how the engine is built, more modern motors can run up around 13:1 before you really need high octane fuel, that is pretty much the limit though, many people run race gas or a mix of race and pump gas at that point.

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

  • Similar Forum Topics

    • By kawasig
      Hello All
      I'm kinda new to ATVs. I just bought a 1987 Suzuki quad runner 230 Dual Range. I'm having a problem finding info on it. It's very clean, only 2.800 miles. The front wheels are only 30 in.center to center. I was thinking about adding wheel spacers to give it more stability. I realize the added stress on ball joints and bearings. I'm wondering if there are any other concerns? Any input is greatly appreciated!
    • By Dumass
      My name says it all. I have a '03 Honda Sporttrax 400EX with a new aftermarket carb on it that seems to be having issues. I can start it but it idles really rough and when I give it throttle it just kills the engine. I have tried adjusting the idle screw but to no avail. I am in the San Diego Ca area. 
      Any advice will be greatly appreciated. I would also like to get an owners manual for the thing too but can't seem to find a downloadable one.
    • By Trent Finnessey
      So I’ve got a 2000 Honda 400ex absolutely love it!! I’ve had it for about a month, I ride with bruteforce 750’s, outlander 850’s and 1000 sxs’s and I was thinking of getting a trx450r carb and a full hmf exhaust. And probably doing the air box mod too, how much power would this give my 400? Just a little different or a big difference? Cuz if it’s not much of a different I’ll just stick with my dg slip on..... thanks!
    • By DPDISXR4Ti
      I hadn't driven my Kodiak for a two months, and since it was low on fuel, the first thing I did was filled it up to maybe 7/8 full. Getting ready to start it, I rotated the fuel selector switch to "on" and within seconds I smelled and saw fuel dripping onto the floor. I quickly turned it off and the fuel gradually stopped - I can repeat this.
      The fuel is flowing from the hose that is connected to the bottom of the carb, and routes around to the left side toward the wheel well. Any idea what's going on here? It ran fine the last time I had it out.
      Thanks...
    • By jhamrick75
      If anyone is having issues with the Mikuni VM24SS carb, I thought I would post what issues I had and how I resolved them.
      Acquired a 93 Bayou 220 that had sat for over 4 years.
      The carb was extremely corroded and pitted and full of leftover fuel.
      Cleaned carb and bowl and was able to get the engine to start.
      Within 30 seconds exhaust would heat up and start to glow red hot.
      Removed carb and recleaned everything, including a second overnight soak.
      Needless to say, after removing the carb for the 5th time and my frustration to the limit I
      realized that my attention had been to the carb body and not to the bowl.
      There is a small brass rod on the bottom of the carb that goes down into the float bowl but is seperated from the main section. I had cleaned that area very well....I had thought.
      ***The corrosion had sealed off the channel that runs from the main bowl section to the small tube section on the side of the float bowl. No amount of carb cleaner was going to get it to budge. So i took a small nail and started to scrape away the corrosion and was eventually able to dislodge enought of the corrosion that carb cleaner would flow through that channel. ***
      I thoroughly cleaned each side of the channel in the float bowl and reinstalled the carb and now the issue of it running lean is gone.
      On a second note the fuel mixture screw was a nightmare to remove as the threads had been corroded and wouldnt let the screw come out. I used a little cutting oil and worked the mixture screw in and out until I was able to push past the corroded threads and completely remove the needle. After a couple passes with a tap to clean the threads it is like new again.
      Hope this helps if you are having a lean running machine.
×
×
  • Create New...