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By DaveswMN
Pulled my '86 Moto4 out of shed where it sat for 20 years. I knew it smoked. checked it over a little put in gas and it fired right up!!
Drove about 100 yards, ran about half throttle wouldn't idle. Put on somenew parts, jug/piston and rings, carb and valve seals.
'went together ok, tuned it over by hand about 6 revs whick went well. Hit the starter it fired for about 6 revs and quit. tried it again fired once and then th sound of something slipping like maybe chain slipping over spoket.
Took cover off to watch cam sproket, hit starter again, heard same noise and the cam sproket was not turning but jumping a bit. Chain was still tight. You will probably tell me I need to split the lower case but hoping there mightbe something else.
I don't fully understand the chain tightener, the plunger only moves about 1/4 inch, should it move much more than that when off the motor and compressing it by hand?
Thanks for any thoughts.
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By SouthARriverRat
I was given a quad 4 years ago. Before that it was sitting at the edge of the woods for 17 years. I think it’s a 86 230 quad but that’s just a guess I have. Never had much dealings with a Suzuki mostly Honda atc’s and Kawasaki. Anyways. The bike was sitting at the edge of the woods with weeds growing through it. I couldn’t see the wheels, nor the rear diff. A family member who had bought it in the early 90’s had it and ask he if I wanted it. I said I’m not interested in buying in but if it’s free sure. Might have some use for some of the parts on day. Well I drug it out the woods with a tractor. None of the wheels turned. I loaded it up bright it home and dropped it beside my shed where it sat for the four years I had it. Until…. 2 weeks ago my wife said I needed to declutter. I thought to my self. Well I haven’t even glanced at it since I had it. So I might as well see if it’s worth fixing, sale it, or scrap it. I knew the wheels wouldn’t turn. I soaked the intire 4-wheeler in penetrate oil, resparying it every few hrs for the next few days, aired up the tyres, and keep rocking it back n forth until it started to roll. The key switch was all to pieces and their was no battery. So I tried to pull the recoil. Nothing. I removed the recoil. Soaked it in a tub of diesel got it working. I put a wrench on the crankshaft. It did not budge. Hmmmm no good. Well I guess better check the oil. Even tho I know it’s locked up. I could see water in through the sight glass. I pulled the clutch cover off. Rust and water everywhere. Mmm mmm mmm my favorite cocktail. I sprayed it all down let it soak. Took all the clutches n things apart, cleaned all the rust off. Lubed it up and put back together. I thought to myself. It’s going to leak without a gasket and I’m not buying gaskets until I know it’s worth the money. So I put a small bead of rtv around the cover and let it cure before I reinstalled it. Tired my luck again a spinning the crank. No luck. I had a hunch before I began that the piston or crank was froze because the seat has always been laying on the front rack as long as I’ve known and the air box cover has been missing exposing the air filter not connected to the intake tube. I pulled the plug finally. lol. I sprayed 3 cans of brake clean in the jug and screwed the plug back on. I let it sit over night. The next morning I filled the cylinder up with deep creep. And let it sit and sit and sit. For a few hrs. I slowly pulled the recoil. It moved!!! I moved it maybe 3/8” and I stopped pulled oil drain bolt drained the oil and fill the cylinder up with a mix of penetrating oil and gun oil. And let is sit for again over night. Pulled the plug out. Pulled the recoil a few times. It moved nicely no sounds of anything scratching rings and no hard spot while pulling. Next, I hooked up my spark tester. It was firing great. Nice fat white/blue spark. Now time for the carb. I unscrewed the throttle valve cap and the throttle valve was stuck. I unscrewed the choke nut and the choke plunger was stuck… I I sprayed it down with brake cleaner and penetrate oil. Screwed the cap back down and the choke nut and I let it sit again over night. Next day they came out like they should. So then I removed the carb. I could see the ethanol cancer before I even tried to remove the carb bowel. I put it in a coffee can of diesel fuel. After sitting I removed the fuel bowel. Here’s a tip I’ve learn on bowel screws a while back. Clamp the carb in a vice with a thin block of wood covering the jaws of the vice. Take a punch same size as the screws. Maybe slightly larger. And rap the punch with a hammer a few times. Not to hard lol. Works great on brake reservoir bolts. Never stripped nor broke one doing it like this. I got the bowel off. Their was so much dry crude I could not see the starter jet. I cleaned it without removing the jets. I took my Tourch tip cleaners and brake cleaner finally got the wire to push through the main jet and starter jet. I put the bowel back on. Put a fuel line on the carb and a small lawn tractor fuel tank full of fresh fuel. I turned the carb every way I could. Couldn’t get fuel… took the carb back apart except for the main jet, starter jet, or the mixture screw, and low idle screw. I let it soak. Could it blow threw the fuel inlet tube. I tried inserting the tip cleaner. No luck.. I took a old cloth hanger, cut it 2 1/2” long and ground it down to about have it’s dia. Then I drove it trough the carb with a hammer. It cleared the way. I put the carb back on the engine and hooked it all up except for the vent hose. Drained the crank and filled it with rotella 15w-40. Put in a new plug dipped in fuel. I pulled on the recoil and it started and idled on the second pull. I let it run for a minute or two. Drained the oil and refilled it. It started back up. I started driving it around and after around 5 mins I had to stop. I was out of oil. Major oil leak. Time to strip it down clean it up and start bringing her to life. I knew I could make it run again but never dreamed it would sound as good as it did. Let alone as cheap as I did. Brake clean and oil free from work. lol. Rtv $3.58. Fuel…$3.19 a gallon. The oil leak is a busted oil drain bolt cap cover. I’m also missing the box box lid. It would sure be a lot easier if I knew what kind of machine I have. I knew but not not know. I know years ago when the family member bought the bike a few months later it was stolen and returned with all the stickers peeled off and the wheels painted black. Who ever stole it also wrecked and bent the front rack and left Handel bar. I did not know until now that they removed all the serial numbers… stamped on the lower part of the cylinder jug is 229. That’s why I believe it’s a 230. And it resembles a quadrunner. It’s 2wd with reverse and hi/low. Shaft driven. I will upload pictures and a video. If anyone what’s to share any wisdom on this ol girl feel free. I like to know what it is and I appreciate any knowledge your willing to share.
IMG_2395.mov
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By Jd101506
Hi all!
So I’ve got a early model (86? Maybe?) (slide carb)Suzuki Quadrunner I’m working on. I’ve having a series of really wild fuel problems and I’m hoping someone could point me in the right direction.
So when I first got it the fuel pump and carb were both toast. Rusted, awful, unrebuildable messes. So I bought a pair of cheap Chinese ones of eBay and worked on the rest of it.
Carb arrives first. I install it, hook a battery up, mainline some fuel into the carb and it runs. Sounds great actually. Ok, cool, runs good, I’m fine. Wait a few days and the fuel pump shows up. Install and the quad runs like absolute dog crap. It would hesitate, stumble, stall, the works. It does sit and idle and start up quickly though. So I assume it’s the fuel pump, so I end up saying screw it and I buy an OEM one. 85$. Meantime I can still get it to run well with drip feeding it fuel.
New pump comes in and installed. Same thing. It stumbles, acts like it’s dying, may stall, etc. This new pump is an OEM Suzuki so my assumption is it’s fine?
I ended up swapping the carb wondering if the float or something is actually my problem. This is a different carb, a WELL REVIEWED Kipa carb from Amazon. I install that and I have a whole different set of problems… this carb will run at mid to high RPM, idle adjustment screw be damned. All the way in or all the way out it runs at the same RPM. I ended up taking the main slide and needle out and I swapped it for a different one and the RPM dropped. Not a lot but a little. So I try and drop the carb needle as low as I can and it’s still funky. Something isn’t right.
So after swapping that carb again I end up rebuilding the Mikuni carb from my Suzuki lt300, and swap the jets over from the Quadrunner rebuild kit I had ordered. Put that carb in and it does the same stupid high idle. I take the choke cable off the bike entirely and it makes no difference and the throttle cable has plenty of slack. As I’m standing there staring at it, it just suddenly drops the idle and sits there idling pretty happy… so I climb on, and it has the same annoying jerky, slow throttle response that the first eBay carb had.
So to recap:
1x Kipa fuel pump kept pushing way too much fuel in.
1x OEM Suzuki fuel pump made the carb from eBay smoke like crazy and idle adjustment did absolutely nothing. I could go a full 2 turns from the stock setting of 1-3/4 turns out in either direction and get the same awful running
1x ebay carb worked well on a mainline of fuel right to the carb gravity fed. But runs like dogshit around the yard. Jerky and low idle and smoking on both the Kipa carbs and the OEM carb.
1x Kipa carb runs at super high RPM and won’t settle down no matter what I do with the cables or anything else.
1x rebuilt mikuni did the same as the Kipa but then randomly dropped rpm to idle and then started running like the ebay carb.
So I’m appealing to the brains here. I find it hard to believe I’ve tried this many carbs and such and I haven’t found a working solution. As an aside, I’ve swapped the plug, done an oil change, and done a general inspection. Compression test I haven’t done, and I haven’t adjusted the valves but it starts easily. And runs easily mainlining fuel.
Sitting in the garage it sounds fine. I’m attaching a video of it running with the eBay carb and the OEM fuel pump. It’s just really weird. It feels like I’m flooding it because when it’s idling I can smell it and there is a little smoke from the tailpipe.
Ill add more video tomorrow of it running like crap around the yard.
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