Quantcast
Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted

I just got another head. I had it running like a charm. It was idling then I heard a LOUD PING then it died. I forgot to tighten the timing sprocket cam bolt. The pin came out and it broke the end of the cam. I replaced the cam put the head back on. No compression. I took it back off to find the intake valve got bent. Had that replaced. Put it back together and running. I had to take the metal from the cam out of the motor. I took the cover off and retrieved the metal pieces. NOW my reverse no longer works. It almost seems electrical. I don't think I moved or touched anything when i took the metal out of the motor????:aargh:

Posted

Thank you! Could this be mechanical and not electrical? It sems more electrical because as soon as I start to move it into reverse it dies like I shut off the quad.??? It used to work before I replaced the head and pulled out the metal from the broken cam.

Thanks for everything.

Posted

Sounds electrical to me, could have something to do with the rev limiter malfuntioning, or it could be a switch like Ajmboy said. Check the wiring too, you could have damaged the insulation on a wire and you may have a short somewhere.

Posted (edited)

Your Reverse switch (located on the reverse hand shifter ) is bad or disconnected. i.ve fixed lots of these.This happens to many ,many warriors.Try disconnecting the wires coming from the reverse switch (l/h lower side)and the wire coming from the reverse lever switch (r/h upper) and grounding them to the frame. this will ensure the start cut out relay is working or just put the relay in your hand and feel it activate as the motor is cranking.

Edited by racers
more
Posted
Your Reverse switch (located on the reverse hand shifter ) is bad or disconnected. i.ve fixed lots of these.This happens to many ,many warriors.Try disconnecting the wires coming from the reverse switch (l/h lower side)and the wire coming from the reverse lever switch (r/h upper) and grounding them to the frame. this will ensure the start cut out relay is working or just put the relay in your hand and feel it activate as the motor is cranking.

Great information. :yes:

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

  • Similar Forum Topics

    • By kawasig
      Hello All
      I'm kinda new to ATVs. I just bought a 1987 Suzuki quad runner 230 Dual Range. I'm having a problem finding info on it. It's very clean, only 2.800 miles. The front wheels are only 30 in.center to center. I was thinking about adding wheel spacers to give it more stability. I realize the added stress on ball joints and bearings. I'm wondering if there are any other concerns? Any input is greatly appreciated!
    • By BuckBilly
      I like to ride in wooded and grassy areas. It takes my mind off the everyday routines and helps me deal with my father's cancer. Also gives me a reason to get involved with forums like this one.
    • By ATVNetwork
      As the 2025 ATV Motocross National Championship Series (ATVMX), an AMA National Championship, got underway with back-to-back Florida AMA Pro only events, it was evident that Phoenix Racing Yamaha’s Joel Hetrick picked up where he left off last season.View the full article
    • By jhamrick75
      If anyone is having issues with the Mikuni VM24SS carb, I thought I would post what issues I had and how I resolved them.
      Acquired a 93 Bayou 220 that had sat for over 4 years.
      The carb was extremely corroded and pitted and full of leftover fuel.
      Cleaned carb and bowl and was able to get the engine to start.
      Within 30 seconds exhaust would heat up and start to glow red hot.
      Removed carb and recleaned everything, including a second overnight soak.
      Needless to say, after removing the carb for the 5th time and my frustration to the limit I
      realized that my attention had been to the carb body and not to the bowl.
      There is a small brass rod on the bottom of the carb that goes down into the float bowl but is seperated from the main section. I had cleaned that area very well....I had thought.
      ***The corrosion had sealed off the channel that runs from the main bowl section to the small tube section on the side of the float bowl. No amount of carb cleaner was going to get it to budge. So i took a small nail and started to scrape away the corrosion and was eventually able to dislodge enought of the corrosion that carb cleaner would flow through that channel. ***
      I thoroughly cleaned each side of the channel in the float bowl and reinstalled the carb and now the issue of it running lean is gone.
      On a second note the fuel mixture screw was a nightmare to remove as the threads had been corroded and wouldnt let the screw come out. I used a little cutting oil and worked the mixture screw in and out until I was able to push past the corroded threads and completely remove the needle. After a couple passes with a tap to clean the threads it is like new again.
      Hope this helps if you are having a lean running machine.
    • By gbanker
      19 miles, 1.7 hours. Gas gauge reads full (WTF???).
      South of Tucson, AZ of RT 83. Rosemont OHV trails.    85°, sunny. 
       Lunch stop where I found some shade.
       
       
×
×
  • Create New...