Quantcast
Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted

I have an '06 Kawasaki Prairie 360 4x4. Three snorkels, 1 for intake and 2 for cvt. The bike runs great until the engine gets hot and then it wants to sputter when I give it gas at low RPM's. I just had the carb cleaned and adjusted. They fixed an idling problem and a misfiring problem. But still the same issue with sputtering when it's hot. If I remove the lid on the air box it actually cures the problem, so I thought at first there wasn't enough air in the mixture, but I have since tried to adjust the mixture and it will not adjust out the problem when it's hot. All that does is make it run bad the rest of the time when it's not hot. 2 1/2 turns out seems to be the best mixture, which is where they had it, so I put it back there. It runs great when it's cold, so I don't think mixture is the cause. If I hose the carburetor with cold water the problem goes away too.

Vapor lock seems more likely the cause of what I'm experiencing. I need some tips on what works if anyone has had this problem and solved it. I fabricated a barrier between the carb and the engine and wrapped the exhaust with header wrap and the problem is less severe. I run the highest octane gas available, have not tried adding octane boost, but I read that it also helps. How about the carb heater? Should I disconnect the leads to that? I live in FL so I rarely have to worry about cold. Might try a small 2-5 psi electric fuel pump to keep the fuel pressurized all the way to the carb, that is supposed to work. This weekend I'm going to mimic a 3 psi pump and see if that will cure it. I have tried removing the fuel cap, that doesn't make a difference.

It happens long before my fuel tank gets hot. The gas inside is not bubbling. after 10 minutes of hard riding it's hot enough to start sputtering. hose the carb for 3 seconds and it's fine. why do I always have these f'd up problems? lol

I appreciate any tips.

Thanks.

Mike

  • 2 months later...
Posted

I haven't been riding lately and have let it go for a while. since spraying water on the carb helped I built a barrier between the carb and motor using roofing metal. that cut down on the problem significantly. I added octane boost for the last ride and the problem went away except for about 1% of the time. Tomorrow I am getting the valves checked and adjusted, since the exhaust valves being tight is a known problem on the prairies. I don't think it was vapor lock, and a know it's not the mixture. Hopefully the valve job will fix the problem. I won't ride again until november, so I really won't know until I burn the fuel with octane out and refuel with regular and get the bike hot. I'll post back after the next ride with the results.

Posted
I haven't been riding lately and have let it go for a while. since spraying water on the carb helped I built a barrier between the carb and motor using roofing metal. that cut down on the problem significantly. I added octane boost for the last ride and the problem went away except for about 1% of the time. Tomorrow I am getting the valves checked and adjusted, since the exhaust valves being tight is a known problem on the prairies. I don't think it was vapor lock, and a know it's not the mixture. Hopefully the valve job will fix the problem. I won't ride again until november, so I really won't know until I burn the fuel with octane out and refuel with regular and get the bike hot. I'll post back after the next ride with the results.

Great, keep us updated. Good luck with it.

Posted

I got the valves adjusted saturday. the guy only charged me $20 and I gave him a $10 tip. he said there definitely was some leakage getting by. it fires right up now without touching the throttle, the way it should. I used to have to floor it to start it. I won't know until I ride it next month whether or not this cured the sputtering problem. but the mechanic thinks it should have, and I'm hopeful now.

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

  • Similar Forum Topics

    • By Tim Keiper
      1st problem, Does anyone know where I can find a stock carb for my Timberwolf, I have tried two different aftermarket carbs and they both suck. The machine runs great until it gets good and warm, then it keeps stalling unless I feather the throttle. it will even stall while I'm trying to go from 1st to reverse or vise versa. I took it to a buddy of mine who is a bike mechanic for years, and he told me try to find a factory carb. When I look online from dealers it says "NOT AVAILABLE" anyone have any suggestions ?
       
      2nd, The small tab on the rear axle for towing is to short for even pulling my small yard trailer, I can't even turn a little bit and hit hits. I tried making an extension which worked great as far as length, but it bends the tab and then the extension drags the ground. I have an idea of what to do to fix it, but wanted to see if anyone else has had this problem and see how you solved it.
    • By kawasig
      Hello All
      I'm kinda new to ATVs. I just bought a 1987 Suzuki quad runner 230 Dual Range. I'm having a problem finding info on it. It's very clean, only 2.800 miles. The front wheels are only 30 in.center to center. I was thinking about adding wheel spacers to give it more stability. I realize the added stress on ball joints and bearings. I'm wondering if there are any other concerns? Any input is greatly appreciated!
    • By Kaz
      Troubleshooting a no spark issue, was running OK, maybe a little rich, turned it off, now no spark. I've checked/ohmed out the main key switch, the start/stop switch, neutral switch, brake switch - all good. It will crank the starter, but no spark with the starter or when I try the pull start. I've checked all fuses and diodes. Swapped battery. New plug. New coil. Swapped in a used CDI - no help. Traced, removed, cleaned, reattached all grounds. Removed things like my winch from the circuits to be sure a bad relay or something was dragging it down. When testing voltages, the orange wire going from the CDI to the ignition coil shows no/very low voltage-shouldn't it have 12V on it? Sometimes I get a very weak, intermittent glow on my spark tester, but not enough to fire the plug. I've checked continuity on just about all wires in the harness. Checked/cleaned/lubed w dielectric grease- all connections, redid a few that looked old/dirty. I've checked the stator resistances, all good, but have a stator and rectifier ordered anyway, will arrive Sunday. I verified that the rectifier has a voltage output back to charge the battery while cranking - 10.5-11V, low, but expected while starter is engaged. What else can I check as part of troubleshooting? I have a Haines service manual, but the 1999 350 4x4 seems to be an odd model, there isn't an exact electrical diagram for it, but found one for another year that has all the same number of wires and same color wires, so I've referenced that. Any hints, tips or advice would be appreciated! Thanks!
    • By Dumass
      My name says it all. I have a '03 Honda Sporttrax 400EX with a new aftermarket carb on it that seems to be having issues. I can start it but it idles really rough and when I give it throttle it just kills the engine. I have tried adjusting the idle screw but to no avail. I am in the San Diego Ca area. 
      Any advice will be greatly appreciated. I would also like to get an owners manual for the thing too but can't seem to find a downloadable one.
    • By Trent Finnessey
      So I’ve got a 2000 Honda 400ex absolutely love it!! I’ve had it for about a month, I ride with bruteforce 750’s, outlander 850’s and 1000 sxs’s and I was thinking of getting a trx450r carb and a full hmf exhaust. And probably doing the air box mod too, how much power would this give my 400? Just a little different or a big difference? Cuz if it’s not much of a different I’ll just stick with my dg slip on..... thanks!
×
×
  • Create New...