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Similar Forum Topics
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By quadcrazy
If you are a new member, why not introduce yourself? This community thrives and grows with you and all our current members! We all want this community to grow and encourage new member registrations. That being said please help out QuadCRAZY by inviting other atv'ers to the community.
QUADCRAZY NEEDS YOU!
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By Skindian82
Won't cold start if I do get started with starter fluid won't start again later when cools down
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By BCNemo
I have a 2001 Yamaha Kodiak 400 (YFM400FWAN©) On a recent hunting trip a problem popped up and I hope someone else has experienced this, so that I can learn from them instead of going on my own hunt for an answer.
The Problem:
On cold days (sub 25 degree) I choke the Kodiak and it starts instantly. It revs up and runs on "high idle" without any problem. However when I return the choke lever to its "normal" position the ATV continues to run and a very high idle. I cant put it into gear until the idle comes down, which it doesn't. In order to use the bike I have to shut it off and when I restart it I must place it into gear before the engine gets a chance to rev up. It then returns to a normal idle and the machine behaves normally. This only happens on real cold days but it is a problem I want to fix. Can anyone offer some help?
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By DayBreakJim
So my latest wheeler is a 04 Yamaha Bruin 350. It had all the wires cut from the stator and a few others and no wiring harnesses. The previous owner had them all twisted together and the bike neutral light would come on it would start (hard to start) but then would idle fine. It would die when you gave it gas so I soldered all the wires together and went on inspecting assuming it was a carb issue. Later after the carb was cleaned and adjusted I got this (see video). The bike would want to die anytime you gave it gas and there would be this horrible knocking sound but only when you gave it gas. I was worried it was the rod bearing and electrical still messed up somehow.
Upon further inspection of the wires coming from the stator there was a W/R wired to R and a R wired to W/R. I switched them so they matched per the service manual (W/R to W/R and R to R) and the bike started right up, idled and revved out fine and the knocking noise disappeared. This was the problem the whole time. It was just really hard to tell bc the oem wires coming from the stator were so brown and dirty I could barely make out which was which.
Where the hell did that knocking noise go? and what was causing it?? Just racking my brain trying to figure out what it was so I know for next time but I can't make sense of it... Really thought it was the rod bearing but it didn't make the noise at idle so I was questioning it...Luckily I kept searching!!
20230725_171507.mp4
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By Ulfthednar
Just a quick test video while I'm learning to use my gopro (really, $250 discount I couldn't pass it up).
This is from my side drive to the top of the property.
The Dog loves the runs.
No snowflakes were injured in the production of this video.
https://youtu.be/tKjBFuHCkM0
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