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Similar Forum Topics
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By gwares
Price : 2500 EUR
The Ultra Bee T offers the fastest acceleration of any road-legal electric motorcycle at this price-point, with the flexibility to deal with a wide range of surfaces. With its huge capability the Ultra Bee T will appeal to people looking for a great medium distance commuter, that’s also able to turn its hand to off-road riding and green laning.
Everything works and new!
We try to capture everything in photos for you.
If you have any questions or need other photos, just ask, thanks.
Send a direct message to make an inquiry or text:
WhatsApp: +33 758 56 21 59
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By quadcrazy
If you are a new member, why not introduce yourself? This community thrives and grows with you and all our current members! We all want this community to grow and encourage new member registrations. That being said please help out QuadCRAZY by inviting other atv'ers to the community.
QUADCRAZY NEEDS YOU!
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By Patrik1543
Good day, I have an atv 150 raptor with a bemi engine from 2002, at least that's what the label says, the problem is that it doesn't have electricity, I bought it completely new and nothing works except the starter relay, so I'd like to make it my own and with my own hands, I just need you to help us get a diagram because I can't find anything on the internet that would answer my idea, the quad bike has a 4-pin cdi and a 4-pole rectifier and a digital tachometer.
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By quadcrazy
Pretty cool modification for all you 3-wheeler enthusiasts!
CboysTV - "In today’s video, we build an electric 3 wheeler out of an E-bike pro. We also take our sandrail mudding and later try and find the love of our friend Gavins life by taking him speed dating."
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By DayBreakJim
So my latest wheeler is a 04 Yamaha Bruin 350. It had all the wires cut from the stator and a few others and no wiring harnesses. The previous owner had them all twisted together and the bike neutral light would come on it would start (hard to start) but then would idle fine. It would die when you gave it gas so I soldered all the wires together and went on inspecting assuming it was a carb issue. Later after the carb was cleaned and adjusted I got this (see video). The bike would want to die anytime you gave it gas and there would be this horrible knocking sound but only when you gave it gas. I was worried it was the rod bearing and electrical still messed up somehow.
Upon further inspection of the wires coming from the stator there was a W/R wired to R and a R wired to W/R. I switched them so they matched per the service manual (W/R to W/R and R to R) and the bike started right up, idled and revved out fine and the knocking noise disappeared. This was the problem the whole time. It was just really hard to tell bc the oem wires coming from the stator were so brown and dirty I could barely make out which was which.
Where the hell did that knocking noise go? and what was causing it?? Just racking my brain trying to figure out what it was so I know for next time but I can't make sense of it... Really thought it was the rod bearing but it didn't make the noise at idle so I was questioning it...Luckily I kept searching!!
20230725_171507.mp4
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