Polaris 500 Onboard Diagnostics Check
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By Sportsman500guy
I bought a 1996 Sportsman 500 4x4 about a month ago, and I love it. Unfortunately, I've been experiencing a few problems with the high-range gear. The first problem is that the gear selector will intermittently pop out of high and into neutral. This problem will sometimes occur when starting from a stop and sometimes will also occur while at cruising speed. The last time this happened I stopped and put it back into gear, however, as soon as I tried to throttle the machine would die. I turned it on again with no problems put it back into high and it died again. Once again I turned it on with no problems put it into low instead and it worked fine with no problem. I drove in low down the road slowly for a little and then shifted back into high with no issues.
I plan on working on it this weekend and would just like some opinions or feedback from anyone who may have experienced these problems before. I'm very mechanically inclined but im unsure of exactly where to start as this is the first Polaris ATV that I've owned. Any feedback is appreciated and thanks in advance
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By qcm413
Hi,
i need to replace my tire on my atv and i want to know if somebody have a good tire experience on mid-mud terrain and winter plowing. im not sure if i am to go with a tile like a tractor thread or the other ones like ITP mud lite
thank in advance
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By marcosphoto
Hi folks, a little disparity brought me to this forum. To set the stage, I'm a 35 auto tech in the industry 37 years now. Licensed motorcycle tech also, 20+ years. I race superbike and motocross. Always done most of my own standard work (outside of specific race machine works) including building my own race bike engines. Now that skills are out of the way, onwards and upwards.
Helping a neighbor with his old quest 500, right front axle seal leak. Well, looks like everything else - right? Wrong! Initially I noticed the CV joint was lacking large lands to place prybars on to pop it out, rather a thin shield like ring very close to the diff seal. Knowing the ring appeared quite delicate, I only pried gently and the CV popped out. However this is where things get weird. Came out only around 7-9mm then hung up again, felt like the clip was catching inside the diff. So spun and pulled, spun and pulled until I was blue in the face but no success getting it out. Also while it was out, I could see that the delicate ring around the outer circumference of the joint was actually the sealing surface where the seal contacts, instead of the norm where the seal rubs inside the diff much deeper and stays cleaner. I've never seen a joint like this, also the service manuals photos which apply to 650 also reflected a standard joint I am accustomed to rather than this one I was fighting with. Rather than break something in the diff, I decided to stop while I was ahead and reassemble the machine before something broke. (The joint would pop in and out of place easy enough, just wouldn't slide out further than 7-9mm). While the joint was a little out and sealing surface exposed, I cleaned the seal and sealing surfaces clean as possible before putting back together. Seems to be holding for now, but eventually I'm sure the leak will come back. Any thoughts as to why that CV joint just refused to come all the way out?
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By waybel
Picked up this old 2000 polaris sportsman 500 and the speedometer is dead .Tried the bypass to get the awd drive to work but no luck.I grounded the 2 brown wires going to the hubs .Didn't work.The AWD light does not come on and there is no power on the grey wires going to the hubs .I even tried connecting the 2 brown wires at the speedometer plug in .There is 12 volts on the red with white stripe connected to brown at the speedometer plug in .Does the speedometer need to be plugged back in for this to work.Could it be the switch or a burned AWD bulb ?
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By Ejwill
I put a new carb on my trx500fe which I have done before on other models, but this foreman was a real pain, takes forever to get to the carb. Anyway I got the new one installed . I also changed the choke cable while I had it this far. When I turned the gas back gas started running into the air filter box. I did have trouble with the choke cable, it didn’t seem long enough to run where the old one did and the elbow that came with the new carb had more of a 90 on the angle. It didn’t feel like it was binding but I don’t know if the valve was seated on the valve seat. The choke pushed in smooth but who knows what happened in side the valve body. I don’t know if this could be the problem or not I hadn’t run the it just turned the gas back on. Appreciate any help, hint, hint Mech and GW or anybody else. Deer season is over in a little over a week. My power chair won’t make it down those muddy roads. Thanks again.
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