What would make it surge the one tire? King Quad 300 "97

[Gwbarm]

I have had leaks from changing to synthetic oils on older machines, but not this severe.

 it  was just time for it to go.

[Gwbarm]

Im sure Amsoil was very good for that old engine, helped clean things up a bit. If it was a year before it started leaking, it was just putting it back in service and the old tired seal went bad.

[Chucksta]

On 9/18/2024 at 1:01 PM, Gwbarm said:

I have had leaks from changing to synthetic oils on older machines, but not this severe.

 it  was just time for it to go.

So... on that note .. I ordered ( what I hope ) is the right seal and bearing kit for the left rear axle. I'm pretty sure that that was the root cause of the whoop whoop.. As the wheel had at least a couple inches of play. 

Here's what I found for the right  bits to fix the drive shaft leaky seal. I'd appreciate it if someone could tell me which bits I need, and which I don't. Also, should I replace the U-joint while I've got it in pieces?

[Mech]

Yes you change the uj. I described the steps involved in #29. You need part 25 and the seal which is part 36 or 38.

The seal can be bought aftermarket but I'd recommend the genuine part because it has a hard wearing lip to it. Same with the rear seal.

When you put the yoke back onto the bike it's important to seal under the washer, and the nut, or it can leak oil.

[Mech]

If you've done universal joints before, the following, from an earlier thread, might make sense. If you haven't done universals before I can describe the steps in more detail.

"The universal is a bit of a bugger to do because you need to dismantle it in place, then put it together in place again as well.. unless you have a special dealer tool to undo the bolt to take the shaft away from the gearbox. The good news is that the universal joint is an excellent design and as far as universal joints go, it's almost foolproof.

Most uj you need to be very careful as you put the cups into the yoke  and onto the cross because it's really easy to dislodge a needle roller. On these crosses you can slip the cup into the yoke and onto the cross without having to press the cup far in, and then the other side cup goes in and onto the cross before it has a chance to drop a needle.. If you've done a car universal you will know the normal problem that requires you to press the cup a long way in till the cross is poking out the other side, then get the cup on the second side and press the whole lot back to the centre of the yoke. You don't have to do that with these ujs.  The hardest part is getting the circlips on and off. The cups also seem to slip most of the way into the yoke too before you have to start tapping or using a g-clamp on it.

They look daunting, but are a lot easier than it looks.. If you've done a uj before you should have no trouble.".

 

Edited September 19, 2024 by Mech

[Gwbarm]

Yes #38 is the seal and if you bend #36 getting it out i would replace that also along with 39 which is an O ring, im sure its quite brittle.

Great description of changing the U joint Mech its always good to heaar little tips and tricks for getting them in and out.

[Mech]

Oh yeah, change the O ring..  That outer steel cover should come away with the uj yoke.

[Chucksta]

Well.. Thanks to all for the help. 

It's too late to cancel the rear seals and bearings, but "All Balls" parts have previously been of decent quality. 

I'll print this out, and hit up the Suzuki Dealership, and get  the bits I need to get it done. 

As far as it goes, I'm a half decent mechanic, at least when it comes to cars, and small engines. The quad world, however, is new territory for me. I should be able to get it done, without completely 'effin it up..  

I'll keep you all posted..  

 

That being said, it'd be nice if the max file size thingy could be reset.. I'm down to 18.48 MB.. That's only about 6 3 MB pictures..

[Mech]

The Admin and Mod are both really helpful...

And obliging..

[Chucksta]

Well... so..  that part about " I should be able to get it done without 'effin it up"..

Umm not so much, as least as far as the rear bearings are concerned. The bugger came apart in pieces. The pieces from "All Balls" arrived, and I had at it. All went according to plan, at first, ( well.. doesn't everything?). All good right up until it came time to pound in the inner bearing. I should have known hurt was coming, as the outer went in just too damn easy. Maybe, because it was seized and had probably spun, or tried to..  Might have been the reason for the " whoop whoop whoop" tire path. But anyways.. When I went to bang in the inner bearing.. no frickin way. I started by cleaning the internal race... Brake cleaner, compressed air, wire wheel on a air die grinder.. wash, rinse, repeat. 

I started trying to tap it in.. At first, all good.. then it just got plain old stuck. I slowly, but surely, increased my aggressiveness on banging it's sorry as* home. No dice. pounded it so hard that the outer fell back out. 4 pound sledge hard.. no way it's move another thou..

Flipped it over, and three smacks later, the inner is in my hand. Only problem is, is that I hit it so hard, the inner is no longer a bearing. the inner won't turn like the other one that literally fell out when I was banging the other one.  and I used what was called for..  nice fat socket, moved it around, smacked it ... probably 3 to 4 hundred times, with various degrees of impact. Got out the torch and ( gently) heated the outside of the 2 cones..  No difference,, it wasn't going in another thou... no how.. no way.

FWACK... FWACK 'effin FWACK!! 

So.. I ordered another bearing / seal kit from "All Balls" through Amazon. Should be here on Saturday, the 28th .. I've re cleaned the inner again, ( wire brush bit on a air die grinder ).. Do I take another whack at the Suzuki King Quad Pinata, or do I take the bits and hand them over to a shop with a press? 

In other late breaking news...  

Ordered the bits for the trans seal.. Well.. I ordered all the bits that I thought I might need. But, not all of them are available at this point. 

Best that North Bay Cycle could do for me was let me know that if I salvaged a couple of bits ( washer and another piece), which were back ordered, I might make out just fine.

We shall see..

[Chucksta]

And I truly hate... "You replies have been merged" 

Separate thoughts and subjects are... exactly that.. Separate!!

When I go to a nice restaurant, and order a steak and a baked potato, if the Server brought it to me, having been through a blender, it'd land up sliding down the wall as I left the building. 

Sorry ... rant over..

[Mech]

Oh man, that's a bummer.

Probably just got the bearing cocked over a little by banging too much on one side(yeah I read about the socket etc). You could put a big bolt, or length of threaded rod, through the socket and a plate on the far side of the hub, and pull the bearing in. Grease the housing and bearing.

[Chucksta]

It was frustrating, to say the least..

Sometimes, you CAN solve a problem by throwing money at it. I mean really.. how much would a shop charge to toss it on their press, and be done with it? it's not even a ten minute job. 

I'll be taking it to North Bay Cycle, an actual Suzuki Dealership. 

After all the bucks I've dropped, on bits for the sleds, and on parts for Suzi, I doubt if they'll even bill me for it. Also, I'll see if any of the bits for the oil leak have shown up yet. They showed stock on what I needed, and "back ordered" on a couple of bit's that I won't know If I need until I get it apart. 

 

I'll keep you posted....

[Gwbarm]

Thats bad about the bearing sometimes they can be stubborn hope you get it sorted out.

[Snick]

Chuck, did you freeze the bearing and heat the part (mildly) that receives the bearing?

[Chucksta]

14 hours ago, Snick said:

Chuck, did you freeze the bearing and heat the part (mildly) that receives the bearing?

Yup ... cooled it with a dip in the freezer, it didn't go in any further than about just above even with the lip. It's gotta go passed that point, to give the seal somewhere to go. It also has to go in far enough to (almost) pinch that center bushing. Heated the outer casing with a propane torch ( not too hot, there was no smoke).

No dice .. Of course, by that point, it's possible that I had deformed it up to the point that it was toast anyways.

I pounded it back out, and it was only about three or four half hearted smacks to get it out.

[Chucksta]

So...   the bearings got pressed in for free by North Bay Cycle. I think it was to make up for having completely dropped the ball on the parts for the driveshaft.

Gonna be probably 2 to three weeks before the bits show up. They showed as in stock when I was at the counter, but for some reason, they didn't place the order until the next day. By then, someone had beat me to them. I could go elsewhere and source the parts, but I have been specifically warned to only get a factory seal. 

Got the swing arm with the fresh bearings installed a couple of days ago..  At least I can move it around in the garage easily. One thing I never thought to do when I had it with the old bearing in, was to spin it and check for noise. Now, it rolls across the floor easily. 

Once again, thanks to all for the useful advice and hints. I'll be back to post up the details when I get the parts for the seal.