Quantcast
Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted

Hi guys

My 87 Bear 350 won't start and could use a hand.

Turn key on and Oil light turns on and then slowly fades out. (I think this is key to this) No start, not even a tick.

battery and connections good

A Solenoid post jump turns it over

Neutral Safety Switch wire attached and seems good

It has not had a wire/switch on Rear Brake Pedal ever since I had it.

Any thoughts on some other things to troubleshoot this??

  • Ajmboy changed the title to 1987 Yamaha Big Bear Electrical Troubleshoot
Posted

If you jump the starter and it cranks, the batttery is probably good or ok to turn over. At that point, you may want to check wiring, starting at the ignition switch. My bet is you have a wiring issue or a bad or misaligned neutral safety switch. Is there a neutral light that comes on? Try holding the brake levers down when starting. 

Posted

Yeah, the fading light sounds like a dud battery but if bridging the solenoid cranks the bike over then it must not be the case.. In that case it's probably a bad connection somewhere. You could try turning the headlight on to see if that fades as well. Not sure what that would tell us at the moment without looking in the book but it would be a simple check of the battery.

I think I'd check the ignition switch as my first check.

The recommended thing to do is what's known as a "voltage drop check". In the case of the switch you put a volt gauge across the power wires on the key switch and with the key off it should show 12v, then turn the key on and the voltage should drop to zero as the power goes through the switch instead of the gauge. If it keeps showing a voltage with the key on then there's a bad contact in the switch. Some models have the 12v going through the cdi and then the  kill switch on the way to the start button so you should do the voltage drop test across those two parts as well.

Switches are a suspect here.. If not a switch, then a bad contact where a terminal connects to a switch or component, or where a wire crimps into the metal terminal on it's end.

  • Like 2
  • 2 weeks later...
Posted

So I just started tearing into wiring connections and found two w/high resistance.

 

Thought I had it.......

 

Got that squared away and find it was more than one thing.

 

What would cause difficulty getting to Neutral with shifter. (Won't start unless in neutral) Seems like if I rock machine back and forth it gets there.

 

TIA

Posted (edited)

Difficulty getting them out of gear if they were in gear when you switched off is quite common, and rocking the bike is the usual procedure.

Most bikes will start in gear if you have the brakes on well enough to make the brake light go. It doesn't actually need the brake light, it just needs the brake light circuit to be energised to bypass the neutral safety feature.

Edited by Mech
  • Like 1
  • 2 months later...
Posted
On 3/11/2024 at 11:34 PM, Mech said:

Difficulty getting them out of gear if they were in gear when you switched off is quite common, and rocking the bike is the usual procedure.

Most bikes will start in gear if you have the brakes on well enough to make the brake light go. It doesn't actually need the brake light, it just needs the brake light circuit to be energised to bypass the neutral safety feature.

 

true about rocking the bike. I've had a few times that i could not get it out of gear. bot, being a 24 year old bike, i don't expect it to run like new. These days i just use it to spray the yard, or to save me a long walk down and up the hill out back.

Posted

I have aa 2000 big bear and have some of the same problems you are describing, hard to get out of gear and the neutral light is iffy. Sometimes i can get it out of gear i know its not in gear i can roll it and the neutral light not on, other times neutral light comes right on. If you go all the way down with the shifter and then come up just a hare not too much or you will be in first, just a tickle, like cracking a safe, if still not out of gear try again. I have just kind of written it off as worn gear box and havent really tore into it to fix it. I can pull the break lever to get mine to start and just go from there, if i get tired of trying to get neutral light to come on, i can get it in neutral, but if light is not lite it wont start until you pull the brake lever. Yours might not be this bad but the one i got was heavily abused and neglected and im gradually bringing it back to life, as soon as i think i have it something else pops up.

  • 5 weeks later...
Posted

seems the older big bears have the same problem: getting it back into neutral unless you rock it.

I have to do that to mine once in a while, but not too often, it's still a PITA

Posted

If a bike doesn't want to come out of gear and into neutral, the easiest way to get it out is to blip the throttle so the bike starts to roll, and then as you throttle off and the load on the gears from driving the bike comes off the gears, they will generally slide out of mesh.

Works on two wheels, quads, and 4WD trucks stuck in 4WD.

Posted

Thanks for the tip! The Big Bear is the only one of mine im having this problem with, the Suzuki shift all the way down and neutral light comes on, Big Bear same shift pattern all the way down doesnt come on but it in neutral because i can roll it, i have to lift a tad on the shift petal to get the light to come on.

Posted

I did used to have to do that fairly regular on the 60s bikes with the 1 down and 3 up trans, neutral is in between 1st and 2nd, but with ATVs all the way down is neutral and it does go into neutral because i can roll it but the light doesnt come on, so im thinking it may not be completely in neutral, so im going to try to blip it and see what happens.  

Posted (edited)

Yeah good point about first being at the bottom, that does make it much easier to find neutral. And yeah, it was those old machines I was thinking of. I still always try to slip things into neutral while It;s still rolling if it's convenient, or blipping the throttle before putting things out of gear if they are reluctant.

I don't know about the yamaha switches but I've seen hondas and suzuki with worn switches that behaved as you say. Sometimes jiggling the shift lever with your hand just enough to make the shift barrel move a little makes the light flicker.

Edited by Mech

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

  • Similar Forum Topics

    • By Thumpinhard25
      First thanks for any help guys, new to the forums and it's gotten me this far. I bought a 2001 bear tracker 250 for my family to get around the dirt bikes races. It wasn't running right and had a high idle. Previous owner thought it was a carb problem, so he ordered a new Zoom carb and new intake boot, but it still had the same high idle. ( I believe he had the throttle cable adjusted wrong, because it idled fine when I put it back together) So I tore down and cleaned the stock carb, and it started up and idled fine, but needed to have the choke 1/2 out to run.  I swapped to the new zoom carb and had the same issue. Choke half out bike ran ok. I played with the needle and the pilot screw with no change. ( bike did seem to be running rich though, but didn't get better when I tightened pilot screw or raised meddle) I Took it to the races and once I started bouncing around in the cattle fields the quad started cutting out real bad. It would barely run.  Sometimes it would run with choke off, sometimes choke 1/2, sometime choke full. I cleaned carb again, checked float level, and boots, no change still wouldn't run. Then suddenly it started running ok again.  This makes me believe it's an electrical issue rather then carb. I know there's no air leak, it's been checked, both carbs are clean( I've swapped them out a couple times, it starts up immediately and usually idles fine. But then bogs down/ or stutters under throttle. I saw the post on the guy who disconnected his rectifier and reconnected and suddenly it started working again, which lead me to believe it may be electrical and not carb.  So any advice on what I should check? Any way to test the CDI or rectifier?  Once again, I appreciate your help.  
    • By Tinkeringreg
      Hi my name is Greg and I just acquired a free 2000 yamaha kodiac 400 4x4 with the ultramatic transmission that does not run. I plan to get it going and use it around my property

    • By Kaz
      Troubleshooting a no spark issue, was running OK, maybe a little rich, turned it off, now no spark. I've checked/ohmed out the main key switch, the start/stop switch, neutral switch, brake switch - all good. It will crank the starter, but no spark with the starter or when I try the pull start. I've checked all fuses and diodes. Swapped battery. New plug. New coil. Swapped in a used CDI - no help. Traced, removed, cleaned, reattached all grounds. Removed things like my winch from the circuits to be sure a bad relay or something was dragging it down. When testing voltages, the orange wire going from the CDI to the ignition coil shows no/very low voltage-shouldn't it have 12V on it? Sometimes I get a very weak, intermittent glow on my spark tester, but not enough to fire the plug. I've checked continuity on just about all wires in the harness. Checked/cleaned/lubed w dielectric grease- all connections, redid a few that looked old/dirty. I've checked the stator resistances, all good, but have a stator and rectifier ordered anyway, will arrive Sunday. I verified that the rectifier has a voltage output back to charge the battery while cranking - 10.5-11V, low, but expected while starter is engaged. What else can I check as part of troubleshooting? I have a Haines service manual, but the 1999 350 4x4 seems to be an odd model, there isn't an exact electrical diagram for it, but found one for another year that has all the same number of wires and same color wires, so I've referenced that. Any hints, tips or advice would be appreciated! Thanks!
    • By Mhatayas
      What should I do about this , bad oil leak where the filter cover bolts on . Can I use some gasket maker 

    • By fwsamm
      Im aware that this relay needs a positive (+) and a negative (-) to activate the other side. The blue wire is the neutral wire so when in neutral it gets ground. The green wire is from the parking break; when you pull the break in it gets ground (-). however one of those two needs to be neutral so that the positive from kill switch can go to the starter relay. The ground from the starter relay is from the start switch. Which one (neutral or parking break) should have a positive (+) voltage?
×
×
  • Create New...