Quantcast
Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted

I couldn't see any lips on the clip groove. If I can just get the whole axle out I can see about getting a new axle shaft, new sprocket hub, and new bearings and seals. I think I saw some carrier housings with bearings in them. It will have to be aftermarket parts but at least maybe it will go together fairly easy. 

20240228_162453.jpg

Posted

Finger-tip feel will pick up what an eye can't see. I'd rub a fine flat file right round it making sure there wasn't a bit of raised metal.

And, could it get caught on the back of the hub ? If the splines in the hub extend in further than the end of the splines on the shaft, then rust could form on those inner hub splines on the inboard side, and jamb when they come along and hit the axle splines.

I'd work it gently back and forwards, from along by the end of the shaft, using two hands, until it got nice and smooth on the splines and wore off any rust. I'd work oil into it while I was freeing it up. Then I'd pull it until it stops, and I'd start moving it around feeling for the central position, and/or splines touching, pulling it gently towards me the whole time. A tiny burr can be enough to throw the hub slightly to one side, but that tiny lean makes something catch in the clip groove and it goes solid. I'd work it into position and give it some light taps from behind .. perhaps that would work for me.

Posted

After watching this video, I'm thinking I might be able to remove the whole axle with bearing still attached see what you think?

 

Posted

You can, you can spread those brackets apart and the whole thing will come out. I couldnt see a lot of your photos and videos not sure why yet. Been trying to figure it out. i could see this one and the last photo you posted. Is your shaft damaged or are you just doing it to replace the bearings, i know your sprocket hub was damaged.  

Posted

I'm not sure yet on the axle. I figure if I get the whole assembly out bearing carrier also, I might find other ways to get it apart. Then I will be able to inspect the axle shaft spleens. Once it's out I think I can cut the sprocket hub off if nothing else works. I'd like to put new bearings cups and seals if possible. Thanks! 🙂

Posted

Thats a good plan! I might have missed something along the way, just a thought, if everything else is good, you are just trying to get the wheel studs to grab in the hub, get the old ones out by splitting the nut, try some new ones and see if they grab after you install them, as an option. If you want to get everything new for piece of mind thats a different story. 

Posted (edited)

Once I get it out tomorrow, I may be able to find a more solid spot to try knocking the sprocket hub off. I guess I could chain one end to a tree the other to my bumper and floor it lol! I would much rather buy new sprocket hub and just replace bearings and seals if I can. Should be able to same some money that way.

Edited by p5200
Posted (edited)

Well, I got it all apart. Funny thing, after getting the seized bearing off each end and the bearing carrier/ housing, the hub and sprocket slid off the left end of axle on the ground? I'm wondering if the new sprocket hub should go on from the left side first, before anything else goes on the axle shaft and install it that way? end without nut is the sprocket side. now to get sprocket off hub if I can't I'll buy both.

20240229_105932.jpg

Edited by p5200
  • Like 1
Posted

Great you got it all apart, its sometimes easier when you get it out and can work on it. Your shaft looks good i think better thaan the ebay one , bearing carrier doessnt look bad, so you just need some bearings and a sprocket hub. Good work!

  • Like 1
Posted

What's puzzling is manual says remove sprocket hub from right? It just slid down and off the left side but was suppose to pull off from the right? I would guess, either the axle or sprocket hub has a defect? I'm going to have to inspect them both a little more. Thanks! 🙂

Posted

I think I should be able to just slide the new hub from left to right and then go from there. I'm hoping to put bearings, races, and seals in this old carrier housing. I've never done it before I guess it's worth a try.  Here is a photo of where the hub stops when sliding it on from the right side of shaft.

20240229_120759.jpg

Posted

Looking at the axel design it looks like with the snap ring removed it should have come off either way,  appears to have the same taper on each end. Where it stops it appears that it may have gotton hot there at some point in its life , looks like baked on oil you might clean thaat good with wire wheel and it might slide right on, but the metal may have expanded from the heat in that area causing the problem.

Good job! Makes me want to get out and work on mine, but this time of the year i have so much yard work to do.

  • Like 1
Posted (edited)

The photo is the right side without the nut I laid it down wrong sorry lol! The hub spleens are already biting the shaft and leaving marks. And it looks like the taper is getting bigger to the right of the hub. I might try taking some measurements with my calipers.

Edited by p5200
Posted

Yeah, a new one will have to slide on from left side of the axle all the way over to the right where it belongs because even by eye, the shaft is getting bigger toward the right of the hub in the photo.

Posted

Am I going to need special tools to drive new bearing seals into the bearing carrier housing? I sure don't want to mess the seals up because there won't be any spares. I can also order a carrier housing with bearings and seals already in it for 50-$70.00 if that would be a better option. Thanks! 🙂 

Posted

That doesnt sound like a bad price, then yow would have everything new and installed correctly,as i recall there is a certain sequence the bearing have to be installed to be correct and you can get it wrong, just check the ratings if its aftermarket for good reviews

  • Like 1
Posted

Pretty nifty looking. I've never seen one of those before. I've been looking and all the carrier bearing housings I found were for 2004 or older. So I guess I'll have to install the bearings in the one I've got. I found these. 

https://www.ebay.com/itm/271454988667?fits=Submodel%3A4X4|Year%3A2005|Model%3AScrambler+500|Make%3APolaris&itmmeta=01HQVG928RSB1NMQAN093BNRHQ&hash=item3f33fa697b:g:2TUAAOxyBjBTTCgh&itmprp=enc%3AAQAIAAAA4J%2F8pDADvaqV3E2cOp5LM%2Fr1Tuyyc8JDnBTcqQK%2FZNnEzLv4y%2BqmbKIkXmPRngNPJyh2cW6kOxW53QK%2BLk4hzBvTGxTyzCoWo9WnCVIl8AUEH%2FLThzV1CepkcCixR%2Bq7fK2ths2Mo9zStIRHQhEgL4YOCwjx8kVWVUkBHa9QId%2FQnSX8WsXJ54sVXG1mvgZmUQPjA1QjWNAT6n7hJqFChuq%2B7ayitwKVbkxfeRg35paD69nHd9RvfWEMtX4M4HOugyreZfx0yC2S6tvzJRmCRHVQKlLOT917%2BfGb1614XNUx|tkp%3ABk9SR86kpPC-Yw 

https://www.amazon.com/Pivot-Works-PWRWK-P01-042-Wheel-Bearing/dp/B000GU11KW/ref=sr_1_1?content-id=amzn1.sym.cb8ad338-1bd3-40db-9a4a-03b37e14bb31%3Aamzn1.sym.cb8ad338-1bd3-40db-9a4a-03b37e14bb31&crid=2BEXQUM24Q7Q5&dib=eyJ2IjoiMSJ9.tJsRmuJnT4o9sMFdAiHe1g.DjTJ4DyPPJAMPGAaXBnC-11c3Xt6fZPIyZCFluZf9WA&dib_tag=se&keywords=axle+bearing+carrier&pd_rd_r=9e2740a1-2342-4b48-b2da-330e8ade5dbf&pd_rd_w=vi3SS&pd_rd_wg=o9KBi&pf_rd_p=cb8ad338-1bd3-40db-9a4a-03b37e14bb31&pf_rd_r=EJEKWRD0D7SWS9WSZHKR&pid=QFgON9c&qid=1709254422&refinements=p_85%3A2470955011&rnid=2470954011&rps=1&sprefix=axle+bearing+carrier+2005+polaris+scrambler+500+4x4%2Caps%2C172&sr=1-1&vehicle=2005-1200-19449-20-----14065------4&vehicleName=2005+Polaris+Scrambler+500+4x4

Posted

One of those kits the bearings look like rubbish, bad finish, and no name.

The amazon set have a better finish to them, part numbers(which most reputable bearings have) and I think I can see a name on them.

Oh.. and I just saw the prices..  haha.

Posted

And Gw's suggestion of a nut splitter is a good idea given it and the chisel are both the same price.  Well... if it's ok quality anyway.

The chisel doesn't have anything to go wrong, it can be resharpened, and it's handy for other purposes.

  • Like 1

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

  • Similar Forum Topics

    • By P_syko
      Hello all! I’m new to the 4 wheeler world, but not new to the mechanic world. I was a diesel mechanic for many years and last year got into jet skis. I just bought a 1987 Yamaha moto 4 350 and now learning the ins and outs of 2 stroke engines. Looking forward to learning all the things. 
    • By JMSwed
      Hi EVERYONE
      New member here
      Bought me an old Yamaha YFM200, previously had a Big bear and a Suzuki King quad.
      Became a member to try to find useful info about the YFM200
    • By mmikesell
      First post here need some help/advice. I bought a 2001 king quad 300, vin number JSAAK43A212111871. I have been trying to do some basic maintenance as it runs but doesn't idle all that well . I want to take out and clean/repair the  carb but when looking for parts it ask for model X Y K1 K2. How do I know which model I have? I have tried some vin decoders but they haven't told me. If anyone could recommend a carb rebuild kit for my quad Id appreciate it. Also any tips on tracking down an owners manual? 
    • By PIYIRIO
      Hi all - I recently had a shop fix this quad and it hasn't been right since. The jug was resealed as it was leaking, the rings were replaced, and the valve stem seals replaced. Shop said the cylinder walls were great so nothing was done there. The motor still smokes, heavily on startup and all but quits once warmed up. Enough that I can live with it if I can fix what I came to ask about. I mentioned this work because since I've gotten it back it seems like it has power but tops out at a much slower speed than before. It's old so I don't have a speedo but I pulled out my phone at it tops out at 25 mph. I know before the work, I was getting up to 45+ mph... It's so bad, my 10 year old daughter is pulling away and straight leaving me in the dust with her governed Polaris 90.
      Given the work done, what are some thing I could be the cause of such a drastic difference? I immediately thought timing but the marks appear to match up with a youtube video I found... no idea if it's correct though. It sat in another shop for 2 months and they gave me an $800 quote just for the starter... it pull starts fine. 
      FYI: I would take it back to the original shop to figure out but I had some issues that make them a no-go for me. 
    • By hfrost112
      Hello im new Here im having a no spark issue with my 1987 suzuki lt230e with a no spark condition
×
×
  • Create New...