Quantcast
Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted

Was going to adjust the chain. Needless to say I gave up on that idea real quick. That whole axel may have to come out. I'm still looking for a you tube on replacing that sprocket hub online with no luck so far. I'm sure that was like that when I bought it. I'm hoping I will be able to replace that myself. 🙂

Posted

Some models the nuts holding the sprocket on are on captive bolts, not studs. They look similar to what cars have for the wheel nuts.

Are you sure they are studs ? If they are the captive bolts they might just knock out with a hammer and the new ones get drawn back in with a nut and some improvised spacer.

  • Like 2
Posted

I think, they are the splined type like on car or truck wheels that you have to hammer in. The nuts are on the other side and you can grab the nuts and rotate the whole stud/nut inside the sprocket hub. I don't know how I could get the nuts off when the whole thing turns. If the three holes are messed up I assume, the hub assembly will have to be replaced. A new hub price isn't bad it's just whether or not I can get the old one off. Thanks Mech! 🙂

Posted

If you can get the nuts off, by splitting them perhaps, then you might be able to pick up some car studs of a slightly bigger diameter that would pull into the hub.  To split the nuts you need something solid and steel under the stud and nut, like a big block of wood with a hunk of heavy metal on it, then you use a cold chisel to cut/split the nut in line with the stud, length-ways along the stud. Once you've cut in a bit and spread it slightly on one side turn the nut and do the same on the opposite side. If you cut enough the nut will fall off in two pieces with a bit of wrestling, or it will come loose enough to be spun off.

Posted

I may have to try that tomorrow.I found a post on a different forum. They said they had a heck of a time getting the old hub of. Said they had to apply heat and do a lot of banging. They said the new one wouldn't go far enough to hit the splines. Someone told them Appling the heat might have caused the axle shaft spline to swell. I'll get out there in the morning and see what I can do. Thanks Again! 🙂

Posted

The old hub can probably be repaired or modified to accept other bolts.

It will come apart P52.. If you open that pdf you have, go to the right section for servicing that area of the bike, then choose to print just those few pages as a pdf, it will be a small file You could then post that small file here in the page for us to check over.

Posted

Yeah not sure why but they are always stripped out, remove the wheel , remove the 3 bolts holding on the sprocket protector, 3 more nuts hold the sprocket on the hub, wet them good with PB blaster and hold the back side with vice grips or something similar to get the nut off then you can better evaluate your hub, im sure it can be saved .

  • Like 1
Posted

To print a part of a pdf P52 you do what's called "print to file", you don't need an actual printer. It just sends a copy to your documents or whereever you want to save it to.

Open the pdf and check/note what pages you want to make into a new pdf and then choose print, when the printer page opens up you choose "print to file",  then you can choose print all, print current page or print pages, so go something like 101-112, or individual pages 101, 102,108,109,110,111,112. Choose preview and it will show you what it's going to look like, then hit the print button on the preview page and choose where to save it to.

Split the nuts off.. It's a common mechanics way of either loosening seized nuts or getting them right off if needed.

And if you can see the back of the bolts then it might be easy to get them right out. Worst comes to worst you put bolts from the sprocket side and nuts on the back..

Posted

I don't know about anyone else but I haven't been able to see your videos or that picture P52.. It might be that you need to save them as some other file type before uploading them..

Doh.. Tried again and the photo did open.. As you were...

  • Like 1
Posted

You'll get the hang of it. It's handy for posting just a few pages.. wiring diagrams etc.

I looked in manuals I have and it seems to be fairly common build. All you'd need to do to get the old bolts out would be undo the nut that holds the sprocket hub on and slide the hub along a bit. If it's seized on the splines it might be a bit trickier. Then I'd try wedging it first off, and if that didn't work I'd pull the wheel hub etc and use metre long threaded rods to improvise a puller to pull the hub off. I always have two in my workshop so I'd get a third and put one through each bolt hole and use some old steel plate or puller hub I'd have. You might be able to use the sprocket with something behind it against the axle so the sprocket doesn't bend.

Threaded rod from the engineering supply shop's fairly cheap and handy to have.

  • Like 1
Posted

Looks like you saved it as something other than PDF P52..

That PRN is a print file..  nearly right by the look of it except for the file type you saved as. There will be an option to save as PDF..

Posted

I understand, most of the ones i have seen have been loose enough that i could get a hold of the backside to hold while i got the nut off, i can see the last photo you posted, but the ones before have looked like this

 

 

IMG_4624.thumb.jpeg.ce0b7e4a4c196951bcedaa17860f40a6.jpeg

been trying to figure it out, not just your photos but videos also from others, i just thought one of my settings got chaanged.

Anyway in that case you need to cut the nut off.

Posted

In the pictures it looks like if you take the chain off and rotate the concentric adjuster, and then rotate the axle, the bolts might just get past that housing and come out. And it looks like the access to the nuts is good enough to support and split the nuts off too.

I'd do that and then figure out how to fix the problem. Nuts and bolts may be a possible cheap fix till you get the rest of the bike sorted and feel ready to replace the sprocket hub.

Posted

Position it so the link is on the sprocket and then hit the ends of the link pins with a hammer lightly. That should push the link through the near-side plate and across enough to get a screwdriver in behind the other side and lever the link right out.

Posted

I did a lot of prying with screw driver and finally got the chain apart. Someone tried to tack the backs of the studs. The only thing with Weld on it is the studs LOL!

Posted

Back side of stud sure won't be using regular bolts with heads. There's a clip holding the sprocket hub in place along with a ton of rust I'm sure. I think, if the wheel hub on end of axle was removed the hub would slide off. Here's photo of retaining clip.

20240226_141439.jpg

Posted

To get that clip out you are going to have to slide the axle over slightly to expose the clip I think. That means undoing the big nut on the other side. A pipe wrench or big cresent will do that.

That clip looks like it's been moving against the hub, and so hopefully the hub has been moving slightly as well and won't be seized on. I'd start spraying lube on that hub now so it might soak in though.

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

  • Similar Forum Topics

    • By P_syko
      Hello all! I’m new to the 4 wheeler world, but not new to the mechanic world. I was a diesel mechanic for many years and last year got into jet skis. I just bought a 1987 Yamaha moto 4 350 and now learning the ins and outs of 2 stroke engines. Looking forward to learning all the things. 
    • By JMSwed
      Hi EVERYONE
      New member here
      Bought me an old Yamaha YFM200, previously had a Big bear and a Suzuki King quad.
      Became a member to try to find useful info about the YFM200
    • By mmikesell
      First post here need some help/advice. I bought a 2001 king quad 300, vin number JSAAK43A212111871. I have been trying to do some basic maintenance as it runs but doesn't idle all that well . I want to take out and clean/repair the  carb but when looking for parts it ask for model X Y K1 K2. How do I know which model I have? I have tried some vin decoders but they haven't told me. If anyone could recommend a carb rebuild kit for my quad Id appreciate it. Also any tips on tracking down an owners manual? 
    • By PIYIRIO
      Hi all - I recently had a shop fix this quad and it hasn't been right since. The jug was resealed as it was leaking, the rings were replaced, and the valve stem seals replaced. Shop said the cylinder walls were great so nothing was done there. The motor still smokes, heavily on startup and all but quits once warmed up. Enough that I can live with it if I can fix what I came to ask about. I mentioned this work because since I've gotten it back it seems like it has power but tops out at a much slower speed than before. It's old so I don't have a speedo but I pulled out my phone at it tops out at 25 mph. I know before the work, I was getting up to 45+ mph... It's so bad, my 10 year old daughter is pulling away and straight leaving me in the dust with her governed Polaris 90.
      Given the work done, what are some thing I could be the cause of such a drastic difference? I immediately thought timing but the marks appear to match up with a youtube video I found... no idea if it's correct though. It sat in another shop for 2 months and they gave me an $800 quote just for the starter... it pull starts fine. 
      FYI: I would take it back to the original shop to figure out but I had some issues that make them a no-go for me. 
    • By hfrost112
      Hello im new Here im having a no spark issue with my 1987 suzuki lt230e with a no spark condition
×
×
  • Create New...