Quantcast
Jump to content

2016 Polaris Sportsman 570 starts but won't stay running


Go to solution Solved by WyattLemke25,

Recommended Posts

Posted

Working on a 2016 Sportsman 570 and it has a new battery and spark plug. No codes, fuses all look good. It cranks for a while and when it starts it will only run for a few seconds before stalling. At one point it was running at 3000 rpm with no throttle input, then it dies. Not sure where to look besides messing with the throttle cable, so suggestions are appreciated, Thanks. 

Posted (edited)

Thanks for the suggestions. I ended up loaning a fuel pressure test kit and I'm only getting around 20psi on prime and cranking. So I've got the fuel pump out and am going to look into a replacement. The pump does sound a little strange compared to our 3 2016 570's which all make the same pitched whine. This one just doesn't sound as healthy so I feel like there's more than enough symptoms to warrant a replacement. I'm working on this for someone so I'm not exactly sure how it was acting before it stopped running, but it's got 4300 miles and 380 hours. 

Also, when I was first looking into the throttle cable I found part of a ziptie placed in between the two contacts inside of the throttle..The current owner did not put it there. Any insight on that?

IMG_20231218_200847184.jpg

Edited by WyattLemke25
add more info
Posted

Yeah fuel pressure should be around 40 PSI. As far as the zip tie, the only thing i can think of is someone didnt want the contacts to touch, or it was a left over shipping item that dealer forgot to remove.

Posted

If the throttle cable isn't adjusted correctly the ignition will be shut off when the throttle is released and the machine won't idle.

People install the zip tie so the contacts won't shut the ignition off.

Adjust the throttle free play to factory specs and remove the zip tie. 

  • Like 1
  • 2 weeks later...
  • Solution
Posted

Thanks for all of the suggestions. The problem was the fuel pump. Put in an All Balls Module, got everything put back together and adjusted the throttle cable to where it should be and it's running and driving great! Was a nice project to learn a little more about these machines. 

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

  • Similar Forum Topics

    • By Kaz
      Troubleshooting a no spark issue, was running OK, maybe a little rich, turned it off, now no spark. I've checked/ohmed out the main key switch, the start/stop switch, neutral switch, brake switch - all good. It will crank the starter, but no spark with the starter or when I try the pull start. I've checked all fuses and diodes. Swapped battery. New plug. New coil. Swapped in a used CDI - no help. Traced, removed, cleaned, reattached all grounds. Removed things like my winch from the circuits to be sure a bad relay or something was dragging it down. When testing voltages, the orange wire going from the CDI to the ignition coil shows no/very low voltage-shouldn't it have 12V on it? Sometimes I get a very weak, intermittent glow on my spark tester, but not enough to fire the plug. I've checked continuity on just about all wires in the harness. Checked/cleaned/lubed w dielectric grease- all connections, redid a few that looked old/dirty. I've checked the stator resistances, all good, but have a stator and rectifier ordered anyway, will arrive Sunday. I verified that the rectifier has a voltage output back to charge the battery while cranking - 10.5-11V, low, but expected while starter is engaged. What else can I check as part of troubleshooting? I have a Haines service manual, but the 1999 350 4x4 seems to be an odd model, there isn't an exact electrical diagram for it, but found one for another year that has all the same number of wires and same color wires, so I've referenced that. Any hints, tips or advice would be appreciated! Thanks!
    • By Kawasakibayounospark
      any one know much about how this system works. Replaced voltage regulator cid box coil pickup coil have power to cid box none out to coil any thoughts. This is cid box number three 
    • By carkivey3
      i just picked this up. was told ran fine but overheating issues led to replacing head gasket and head. has not ran since. he is not a mechanic but helped someone else who he could not get back to finish job, got aggravated and put up for sale. i was thinking timing issues. i have 110-120psi on all 3 cylinders so i think valves are correct. dont know about distributor yet. however i have no spark. i have no power going to ignition coil. tried to follow white wire but gets lost in wire harness. does anyone have a wiring diagram? can anyone tell me what conditions have to be met before starting. motor turns over so i would think all safeties are met but you never know.
    • By jhamrick75
      If anyone is having issues with the Mikuni VM24SS carb, I thought I would post what issues I had and how I resolved them.
      Acquired a 93 Bayou 220 that had sat for over 4 years.
      The carb was extremely corroded and pitted and full of leftover fuel.
      Cleaned carb and bowl and was able to get the engine to start.
      Within 30 seconds exhaust would heat up and start to glow red hot.
      Removed carb and recleaned everything, including a second overnight soak.
      Needless to say, after removing the carb for the 5th time and my frustration to the limit I
      realized that my attention had been to the carb body and not to the bowl.
      There is a small brass rod on the bottom of the carb that goes down into the float bowl but is seperated from the main section. I had cleaned that area very well....I had thought.
      ***The corrosion had sealed off the channel that runs from the main bowl section to the small tube section on the side of the float bowl. No amount of carb cleaner was going to get it to budge. So i took a small nail and started to scrape away the corrosion and was eventually able to dislodge enought of the corrosion that carb cleaner would flow through that channel. ***
      I thoroughly cleaned each side of the channel in the float bowl and reinstalled the carb and now the issue of it running lean is gone.
      On a second note the fuel mixture screw was a nightmare to remove as the threads had been corroded and wouldnt let the screw come out. I used a little cutting oil and worked the mixture screw in and out until I was able to push past the corroded threads and completely remove the needle. After a couple passes with a tap to clean the threads it is like new again.
      Hope this helps if you are having a lean running machine.
    • By dstoltey
      I have a 1992 Kawasaki Bayou, and every time I try to replace the fuse on the starter relay, it blows immediately. I have replaced the battery, and have exhausted all of my ideas. Any help is greatly appreciated!
×
×
  • Create New...