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Similar Forum Topics
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By Coyote251
I'm trying to help a buddy out with his bike (he's not really on the internet or familiar with these forums) and I'll admit that I am not super familiar with the transmission and clutches in these bikes. I owned a Brute a few years ago, but never had an issue like this that I had to troubleshoot.
So basically my buddy bought a group lot of 650's to build one good bike out of. He got it all put together and has it running but when he pushes on the throttle the clutch doesn't engage till the RPM's are quite high and even when its moving it doesn't really speed up, almost seems like its in "limp mode". He's tried 2 different transmissions so I don't think that's the problem.
Is there any adjustment on the clutch engagement? Anything else I can tell him to look at? Let me know if you need anymore information if you think you can help.
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By Thumpinhard25
First thanks for any help guys, new to the forums and it's gotten me this far. I bought a 2001 bear tracker 250 for my family to get around the dirt bikes races. It wasn't running right and had a high idle. Previous owner thought it was a carb problem, so he ordered a new Zoom carb and new intake boot, but it still had the same high idle. ( I believe he had the throttle cable adjusted wrong, because it idled fine when I put it back together) So I tore down and cleaned the stock carb, and it started up and idled fine, but needed to have the choke 1/2 out to run. I swapped to the new zoom carb and had the same issue. Choke half out bike ran ok. I played with the needle and the pilot screw with no change. ( bike did seem to be running rich though, but didn't get better when I tightened pilot screw or raised meddle) I Took it to the races and once I started bouncing around in the cattle fields the quad started cutting out real bad. It would barely run. Sometimes it would run with choke off, sometimes choke 1/2, sometime choke full. I cleaned carb again, checked float level, and boots, no change still wouldn't run. Then suddenly it started running ok again. This makes me believe it's an electrical issue rather then carb. I know there's no air leak, it's been checked, both carbs are clean( I've swapped them out a couple times, it starts up immediately and usually idles fine. But then bogs down/ or stutters under throttle. I saw the post on the guy who disconnected his rectifier and reconnected and suddenly it started working again, which lead me to believe it may be electrical and not carb. So any advice on what I should check? Any way to test the CDI or rectifier? Once again, I appreciate your help.
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By Kaz
Troubleshooting a no spark issue, was running OK, maybe a little rich, turned it off, now no spark. I've checked/ohmed out the main key switch, the start/stop switch, neutral switch, brake switch - all good. It will crank the starter, but no spark with the starter or when I try the pull start. I've checked all fuses and diodes. Swapped battery. New plug. New coil. Swapped in a used CDI - no help. Traced, removed, cleaned, reattached all grounds. Removed things like my winch from the circuits to be sure a bad relay or something was dragging it down. When testing voltages, the orange wire going from the CDI to the ignition coil shows no/very low voltage-shouldn't it have 12V on it? Sometimes I get a very weak, intermittent glow on my spark tester, but not enough to fire the plug. I've checked continuity on just about all wires in the harness. Checked/cleaned/lubed w dielectric grease- all connections, redid a few that looked old/dirty. I've checked the stator resistances, all good, but have a stator and rectifier ordered anyway, will arrive Sunday. I verified that the rectifier has a voltage output back to charge the battery while cranking - 10.5-11V, low, but expected while starter is engaged. What else can I check as part of troubleshooting? I have a Haines service manual, but the 1999 350 4x4 seems to be an odd model, there isn't an exact electrical diagram for it, but found one for another year that has all the same number of wires and same color wires, so I've referenced that. Any hints, tips or advice would be appreciated! Thanks!
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By Mhatayas
What should I do about this , bad oil leak where the filter cover bolts on . Can I use some gasket maker
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By fwsamm
Im aware that this relay needs a positive (+) and a negative (-) to activate the other side. The blue wire is the neutral wire so when in neutral it gets ground. The green wire is from the parking break; when you pull the break in it gets ground (-). however one of those two needs to be neutral so that the positive from kill switch can go to the starter relay. The ground from the starter relay is from the start switch. Which one (neutral or parking break) should have a positive (+) voltage?
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