Quantcast
Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted

Hello,

recently I removed my starter because it was to slow so before buying a new one I thought cleaning it. So I did and it did went much better. 
 

The thing is I replaced it exactly as it was but since then the starter goes freely like there’s no dentelywheels.

Did I do something wrong ?

Posted

Yep, solenoid is not engaging...the starter actually has two functions built into it.  A solenoid moves the starter gear forward to engage with the engine as the starter motor is spinning.  That same solenoid retracts the starter gear when you release the switch so that the engine does not continue to spin the starter.  Take it back off and figure out what you did to make the solenoid not work...

  • Like 1
Posted

No that's not right Parham..  Not for these bike starters.. They aren't the pre-engaged/solenoid-engaged sort that cars have.

If it was working for a while when you first put it back in Cheeta then it's most likely that the ratcheting mechanism inside the cases has played up. There's a ratchet called a "sprag clutch" that rides on the back of the flywheel in the side case and it allows the starter to turn the engine over but once the engine is running it just slips and doesn't turn the starter. If you take the starter out and partly strip it so you have the commutator/shaft and the end housing thatbolts to the engine, you can bolt those two parts in and test it by turning the shaft by hand. It should turn freely one way but the other way it should try to turn the engine.

  • Like 1
Posted
21 minutes ago, Mech said:

No that's not right Parham..  Not for these bike starters.. They aren't the pre-engaged/solenoid-engaged sort that cars have.

If it was working for a while when you first put it back in Cheeta then it's most likely that the ratcheting mechanism inside the cases has played up. There's a ratchet called a "sprag clutch" that rides on the back of the flywheel in the side case and it allows the starter to turn the engine over but once the engine is running it just slips and doesn't turn the starter. If you take the starter out and partly strip it so you have the commutator/shaft and the end housing thatbolts to the engine, you can bolt those two parts in and test it by turning the shaft by hand. It should turn freely one way but the other way it should try to turn the engine.

Thanks Mech!  I knew we would get at the RIGHT answer...even at the expense of my ignorance! 🙂

  • Like 1
Posted

Cheetah,  Did you  have the entire starter assembly out or just the starter?  On some bikes the sprag ( the part in #4 that looks like a roller bearing) can be put in wrong way round.  Those "rollers"  are actually an oval shape.  Turned in one direction the cam out and jam against the bore they run in  and turn the assembly to  start the motor.  When the motor  runs it is faster than the  starter turns allowing those "rollers"  to  drop down  and free the assembly.

If you had the whole assembly part and  put that sprag in  wrong way round  it would let the starter spin the assembly without locking up and turning the motor over. If that is the case,  testing it like Mech suggested , you'd find  turning the starter shaft forward it  would turn freely but if you turned it  back it would lock up, trying to turn the motor in reversed  rotation.

Posted (edited)

I don't think the sprag comes out unless you unbolt the unit from the flywheel in that particular bike Dave.. just going on the picture here.. The sprag looks to have a shoulder/flange at our end of it, which would be up against the flywheel I think..  And the flywheel would need to be off as well.

 It's possible that one of the gears could have shed two or three teeth..  but that's unlikely too.. Never seen a broken tooth. But then..  The sprags are normally very very reliable.. unless they get full of.. metal shards !!!

Edited by Mech

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

  • Similar Forum Topics

    • By jhamrick75
      If anyone is having issues with the Mikuni VM24SS carb, I thought I would post what issues I had and how I resolved them.
      Acquired a 93 Bayou 220 that had sat for over 4 years.
      The carb was extremely corroded and pitted and full of leftover fuel.
      Cleaned carb and bowl and was able to get the engine to start.
      Within 30 seconds exhaust would heat up and start to glow red hot.
      Removed carb and recleaned everything, including a second overnight soak.
      Needless to say, after removing the carb for the 5th time and my frustration to the limit I
      realized that my attention had been to the carb body and not to the bowl.
      There is a small brass rod on the bottom of the carb that goes down into the float bowl but is seperated from the main section. I had cleaned that area very well....I had thought.
      ***The corrosion had sealed off the channel that runs from the main bowl section to the small tube section on the side of the float bowl. No amount of carb cleaner was going to get it to budge. So i took a small nail and started to scrape away the corrosion and was eventually able to dislodge enought of the corrosion that carb cleaner would flow through that channel. ***
      I thoroughly cleaned each side of the channel in the float bowl and reinstalled the carb and now the issue of it running lean is gone.
      On a second note the fuel mixture screw was a nightmare to remove as the threads had been corroded and wouldnt let the screw come out. I used a little cutting oil and worked the mixture screw in and out until I was able to push past the corroded threads and completely remove the needle. After a couple passes with a tap to clean the threads it is like new again.
      Hope this helps if you are having a lean running machine.
    • By P_syko
      Hello all! I’m new to the 4 wheeler world, but not new to the mechanic world. I was a diesel mechanic for many years and last year got into jet skis. I just bought a 1987 Yamaha moto 4 350 and now learning the ins and outs of 2 stroke engines. Looking forward to learning all the things. 
    • By JMSwed
      Hi EVERYONE
      New member here
      Bought me an old Yamaha YFM200, previously had a Big bear and a Suzuki King quad.
      Became a member to try to find useful info about the YFM200
    • By mmikesell
      First post here need some help/advice. I bought a 2001 king quad 300, vin number JSAAK43A212111871. I have been trying to do some basic maintenance as it runs but doesn't idle all that well . I want to take out and clean/repair the  carb but when looking for parts it ask for model X Y K1 K2. How do I know which model I have? I have tried some vin decoders but they haven't told me. If anyone could recommend a carb rebuild kit for my quad Id appreciate it. Also any tips on tracking down an owners manual? 
    • By Gwbarm
      I finally got around to working on the TRX, this has been an ongoing problem with this machine. This is a machine that we keep on my Fathers property, i dont see it that often, my brother haad it professionally repaired last year and year before same problem, the new starter gears and bypass gears last about a year and the machine is not used that often, he said he was done with it , so i thought i should go take a look. Sure enough the gears were all malled again. 
       

       

      IMG_4910.mov   There is some slack in there but most is taken up by the gear cover,if anyone with history with these machines has had the same problem, let me know your findings. Where i am now im looking for finding replacement honda gears on Ebay and try those. I suspect the original was replaced with aftermarket gears years ago and they just worse quality as the years go by. 
×
×
  • Create New...