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By Dumass
My name says it all. I have a '03 Honda Sporttrax 400EX with a new aftermarket carb on it that seems to be having issues. I can start it but it idles really rough and when I give it throttle it just kills the engine. I have tried adjusting the idle screw but to no avail. I am in the San Diego Ca area.
Any advice will be greatly appreciated. I would also like to get an owners manual for the thing too but can't seem to find a downloadable one.
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By Trent Finnessey
So I’ve got a 2000 Honda 400ex absolutely love it!! I’ve had it for about a month, I ride with bruteforce 750’s, outlander 850’s and 1000 sxs’s and I was thinking of getting a trx450r carb and a full hmf exhaust. And probably doing the air box mod too, how much power would this give my 400? Just a little different or a big difference? Cuz if it’s not much of a different I’ll just stick with my dg slip on..... thanks!
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By DPDISXR4Ti
I hadn't driven my Kodiak for a two months, and since it was low on fuel, the first thing I did was filled it up to maybe 7/8 full. Getting ready to start it, I rotated the fuel selector switch to "on" and within seconds I smelled and saw fuel dripping onto the floor. I quickly turned it off and the fuel gradually stopped - I can repeat this.
The fuel is flowing from the hose that is connected to the bottom of the carb, and routes around to the left side toward the wheel well. Any idea what's going on here? It ran fine the last time I had it out.
Thanks...
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By jhamrick75
If anyone is having issues with the Mikuni VM24SS carb, I thought I would post what issues I had and how I resolved them.
Acquired a 93 Bayou 220 that had sat for over 4 years.
The carb was extremely corroded and pitted and full of leftover fuel.
Cleaned carb and bowl and was able to get the engine to start.
Within 30 seconds exhaust would heat up and start to glow red hot.
Removed carb and recleaned everything, including a second overnight soak.
Needless to say, after removing the carb for the 5th time and my frustration to the limit I
realized that my attention had been to the carb body and not to the bowl.
There is a small brass rod on the bottom of the carb that goes down into the float bowl but is seperated from the main section. I had cleaned that area very well....I had thought.
***The corrosion had sealed off the channel that runs from the main bowl section to the small tube section on the side of the float bowl. No amount of carb cleaner was going to get it to budge. So i took a small nail and started to scrape away the corrosion and was eventually able to dislodge enought of the corrosion that carb cleaner would flow through that channel. ***
I thoroughly cleaned each side of the channel in the float bowl and reinstalled the carb and now the issue of it running lean is gone.
On a second note the fuel mixture screw was a nightmare to remove as the threads had been corroded and wouldnt let the screw come out. I used a little cutting oil and worked the mixture screw in and out until I was able to push past the corroded threads and completely remove the needle. After a couple passes with a tap to clean the threads it is like new again.
Hope this helps if you are having a lean running machine.
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By oxidized_black
View File 1988-2002 Kawasaki Bayou 220 service manual
Also available on eManualOnline
1988-2002 Kawasaki Bayou 220 service manual
The Kawasaki Bayou 220 is one of the most common all-terrain vehicles on off-road trails that is geared toward novice riders and families. It’s also one of the smallest and most inexpensive ATVs on the market, with a retail price under $3,500, as of 2010. The Bayou 220 is Kawasaki’s only ATV of its size. The 220’s sibling is the larger Bayou 250 equipped with a 228cc engine.
Engine
The Bayou 220’s engine is a 215cc, four-stroke, shaft-driven, air-cooled model. Its bore measures 2.6 inches and the stroke is 2.4 inches. It features a relatively high 9.3:1 compression ratio with fuel delivered through a Mikuni VM24SS carburetor. The electronic ignition is Kawasaki’s DC-CDI. It also features a recoil backup as a starting system. The clutch is an automatic wet multidisc model with power delivered to the wheels via a five-speed transmission, according to ATV Source.
Chassis
The steel frame supports a front suspension with single A-arms and twin shock absorbers, with the rear suspension a Quad-Link system with two shocks. Front wheel travel is 4.5 inches, while the rear wheel travel measures at 4.9 inches. Front and rear brakes are drums.
Size
The front tire size is AT21X8-9 with the rear tires measuring AT22X10-10. The ATV’s wheelbase is 43.9 inches, with an overall length of 68.7 inches. Ground clearance is 6.1 inches with the seat height measuring 28.7 inches. It weighs 403 lbs. and can tow up to 450 lbs. Its fuel tank can carry 2.6 gallons.
Basics
The Kawasaki Bayou 220 is not the fastest ATV on the market, but one reason the Bayou 220 has kept its price low is the lack of amenities. It features a brake light and dual headlamps with high/low beam. There is an auxiliary lighting terminal inside the front cover of the ATV and electrical accessory terminals under the seat. The instrument cluster atop the fuel tank features a fuel gauge, but not much else. There are no speedometer, odometer, hourmeter, tripmeter, high-beam indication or high-temperature light. It does have a reverse/neutral indicator light. The Bayou comes in two colors: hunter green and firecracker red.
Features
The front A-arm, twin shock and rear Quad-Link twin-shock suspension system is not a true fully independent system, but it allows for a comfortable ride over rough terrain without employing a complex and expensive, fully independent suspension system. The ATV features front and rear steel cargo racks. The ATV is rider-friendly with a limited adjustable throttle to help novices practice their riding skills without twisting the throttle too far and losing control of the vehicle.
Submitter oxidized_black Submitted 12/14/2016 Category Kawasaki ATV
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