Suzuki king quad 300 idles great but Boggs when you apply throttle

[Mech]

Oh actually, that spring you are holding will be the 10mm one.. so you have a steel cover..  Ok, so that spring goes down into the needle tower and is meant to keep the needle down.

 

[97kingquad]

12 minutes ago, Mech said:

Without the O ring the needle jumps up and down and fuel gets chucked in there in a completely random fashion, and generally far too much of it.. And that doesn't look like any part I've ever seen in there for the job. It normally is about 20 mm long, has an O ring on the bottom then a flange and a flatter part that's serrated so it can be grabbed with a pair of pliers..

Find a bit of rubber hose about 6mm diameter and use that to jamb down on top or that spring temporarily and see if that fixes it. If it's held down by the spring it will move up, but against the spring pressure, not completely freely.

The spring sits in a bulb under the carb lid and it sits pretty firm it pops the cover once the screws are loose 

1 minute ago, Mech said:

Oh actually, that spring you are holding will be the 10mm one.. so you have a steel cover..  Ok, so that spring goes down into the needle tower and is meant to keep the needle down.

 

Yes 

[Mech]

Yeah, and the spring goes down into the slide and presses the needle down into the slide so the needle can't jump up and down...

[97kingquad]

Just now, Mech said:

Yeah, and the spring goes down into the slide and presses the needle down into the slide so the needle can't jump up and down...

I ordered a rebuild kit with the gaskets and o rings and all the Jets so I can replace them, so there is supposed to be an o ring under it?

[Mech]

So.. when you are trying to go up this incline, does it backfire into the air-box when you open the throttle too far ?

Or does it just fade out of power without the backfiring ?

[97kingquad]

Just now, Mech said:

So.. when you are trying to go up this incline, does it backfire into the air-box when you open the throttle too far ?

Or does it just fade out of power without the backfiring ?

It backfires into the airbox 

[Mech]

No, that version just has some plastic spacers and perhaps a metal one, all fitted onto the needle. The needle holds the needle from jumping around once the cap is screwed down.

Ok.. Well that's what I've been trying to find out for days.. haha..

It's almost certain to be a lean mixture.

And the further you open the throttle the worse the back-firing and the slower, or more gutless it gets right ?

So put the airbox hose back on, set that needle clip to the middle position and go see if it improves.

I don't suppose by any chance you happened to take note of what the jet sizes were when you had it apart did you.. so I can check in the book what it's meant to be.. Only the main jet is all we need..

[97kingquad]

2 minutes ago, Mech said:

No, that version just has some plastic spacers and perhaps a metal one, all fitted onto the needle. The needle holds the needle from jumping around once the cap is screwed down.

Ok.. Well that's what I've been trying to find out for days.. haha..

It's almost certain to be a lean mixture.

And the further you open the throttle the worse the back-firing and the slower, or more gutless it gets right ?

Yeah when I'm opening the throttle it will start to bogg around ¼-½ throttle and it will slowly die or just sit and bog  and be gutless. But I found my set screw around 1 turns or so is the best I can find for it to run. But it's still not 100 and only with the airbox lid off

[Mech]

And unless you bought that kit off suzuki, I wouldn't trust it to have the right jets or needle .. not one bit.

In your year alone there are two differently set up carbs just in my market.. The NZ market.. There are canadian, euro, american, jap, swedish markets.. and probably variations within those markets.

The problem is not with the idle circuit or the idle mixture screw. It's the slide, or the needle..  if the float level is set right.. 

Put the airbox hose on, set the needle clip to the center and go have a try..  Tell me what happens exactly, how it differs from  now,  and I'll tell you what to do next.

[97kingquad]

2 minutes ago, Mech said:

And unless you bought that kit off suzuki, I wouldn't trust it to have the right jets or needle .. not one bit.

In your year alone there are two differently set up carbs just in my market.. The NZ market.. There are canadian, euro, american, jap, swedish markets.. and probably variations within those markets.

The problem is not with the idle circuit or the idle mixture screw. It's the slide, or the needle..  if the float level is set right.. 

I did check the float and it was off a bit but I adjusted it and the needle is set 4th from the bottom, the slide does have some wear on it from rubbing the housing 

[Mech]

Before you put the needle back in see if it has some numbers on it.. let me know what they are.

Yup I saw about the float height.. If it's as the book says it won't be the problem.

[Gwbarm]

I have wondered that same thing about carb kits, i bought a more expensive kits to rebuild mine that had good ratings, because i didnt know anything about the carb, both ebay carbs, wheather it had already had a cheap kit put in it, i guess the only way to know for sure on an old used bike is to but new suzuki jets and needle. Unless i can figure out a way to tell if i have original suzuki jets. Still working on that. Yours may not be original either, how do you know.  

[97kingquad]

8 minutes ago, Mech said:

Before you put the needle back in see if it has some numbers on it.. let me know what they are.

Yup I saw about the float height.. If it's as the book says it won't be the problem.

I cant find any numbers on it or the slide 

[Mech]

And a quick search through a few different models, all your year has four different main jets listed for that carb..

[Gwbarm]

The jets i took out of the first one i rebuilt had the correct jet # on them for that carb, but the all balls kit i bought also had the correct number on the jets, i dont remember seeing a number on the needle, i will look again with a magnifying glass, they seem to be printing these numbers smaller as i get older.

[Mech]

The important thing Gw is to make sure you have all the jets and needle and settings right for one of the models..  The problem is not so much having the wrong set of jets, it's having muddled sets of jets. You have to have the idle air jet, idle fuel jet, and the idle screw all right for one model, and then the main air jet, main fuel jet,  emulsion tube, slide and needle, all right for that same model

[Mech]

And 97, just to save me a lot of reading.. When you had that carb apart and were cleaning it, did you take the emulsion tube out and clean it's tiny holes in the side of it, about half way up the tube ? There will be two or more holes..

Part six in this picture..

[97kingquad]

5 minutes ago, Mech said:

And 97, just to save me a lot of reading.. When you had that carb apart and were cleaning it, did you take the emulsion tube out and clean it's tiny holes in the side of it, about half way up the tube ? There will be two or more holes..

Part six in this picture..

Can you give me the number of what screw that is?

 

Just now, 97kingquad said:

Can you give me the number of what screw that is?

 

Sorry my phone is only showing me half your message at first disregard my last one

 

7 minutes ago, Mech said:

And 97, just to save me a lot of reading.. When you had that carb apart and were cleaning it, did you take the emulsion tube out and clean it's tiny holes in the side of it, about half way up the tube ? There will be two or more holes..

Part six in this picture..

I'm not quite sure I will have to check when I am home again tomorrow morning, thank you for the help mech and gw

[Mech]

 And 97.. to elliminate the fuel pump being the problem.. when you go for this test ride, approach the slope slowly, then accelerate and see if it starts off going ok, but then starts to loose power after a few seconds, like ten or more seconds.  That should have the float bowl full at the bottom of the slope, and if it falters straight away under the load it's the mixture, but if it goes for that few seconds then starts to falter, it's probably because the fuel level is falling in the bowl..  That will mean bad pump or filter in the tap or bad tap.

 

[97kingquad]

7 minutes ago, Mech said:

 And 97.. to elliminate the fuel pump being the problem.. when you go for this test ride, approach the slope slowly, then accelerate and see if it starts off going ok, but then starts to loose power after a few seconds, like ten or more seconds.  That should have the float bowl full at the bottom of the slope, and if it falters straight away under the load it's the mixture, but if it goes for that few seconds then starts to falter, it's probably because the fuel level is falling in the bowl..  That will mean bad pump or filter in the tap or bad tap.

 

Okay 👍

[Mech]

You'd know if you had that No6 out, it's a long brass tube(about 30mm) and the slide needle drops down into it. It's held in by the main jet.

[JustRandy]

32 minutes ago, Gwbarm said:

The jets i took out of the first one i rebuilt had the correct jet # on them for that carb, but the all balls kit i bought also had the correct number on the jets, i dont remember seeing a number on the needle, i will look again with a magnifying glass, they seem to be printing these numbers smaller as i get older.

If there's no number on the needle it's probably a really cheap needle.  I think I've seen them like that before.  Or they have some weird numbers that don't correlate to Mikuni.

The Shindy kits have always been ok for me.  https://www.shindypro.com/

I think the important thing is that they come from Japan.

Our jet needles are stamped with our unique code to make it easier to differentiate from the OEM part when repairing the carburetor kit. Other makers stamp using random numbers or the same numbers as OEM, creating confusion.  https://www.shindypro.com/carb-kit-info

Now I see.

[Mech]

Airbox hose on, needle set right, go for a drive. And remember, nice and slow up to the slope so the float bowl is full, then count the seconds till it falters at 1/2 throttle.. 

If we need to work on the No6 tube or the pump we will look at that next. I'll tell you how to test the pump.

[Mech]

What confusion ?

Who's confused ?

[JustRandy]

25 minutes ago, Mech said:

What confusion ?

Who's confused ?

I don't know.  Ask Shindy.

[Mech]

I'm not proposing buying any needle.

If I was, because a needle was bent or lost, I'd check the carb specs and buy a genuine needle for that carb..  No guess-work involved. It would be right.. And japanese !

[JustRandy]

That's a good policy, especially for a professional working on other people's carbs.  And I would probably buy genuine OEM needles for something I really cared about.

But I've used Shindy kits in the past without a noticeable issue.  And a Shindy kit with needle, jets, float needle and seat, and gasket costs about what an OEM needle costs.  I wouldn't fault someone for using one.

$16.74 at Amazon  https://www.amazon.com/Shindy-Carburetor-Repair-Kit-03-209/dp/B003CK89TE

[Mech]

Yeah good Randy. I'm really only here to help 97..

Perhaps start a thread about it.

[JustRandy]

Stop pouting.

[Mech]

Yes Boss.